since archive serching is disabled...

last week my car started revving up and down from about 750 up to like 2000 rpms. stopped the car, popped the hood, and after giving it some thoughtful looks, put my hand on the TB and just reved it up like that. idle returned to normal. No CEL thrown.

Today when I leave work, i get in the car and start it up, and it immediately revs up to 2000rpms and holds there. i reached down to check if maybe the floormat was on the pedal but it wasn't. took a second to collect my thoughts and it just stopped on it's own. again no CEL

is that a bad TPS?

if it is, can I use any Honda TPS? I know you can't get one separate from Honda, but if I drill out the rivets on my TB, can I tap the holes and just bolt on one from another TB?

 

I've heard the tps sensors are interchangeable. Have you checked the FIV and/or vaccuum leaks yet?

 

I kind of ruled out vacume leaks since i'd think it would do it all the time if that was it. This is 2 times in about a 10 day period and i've put about 1500 miles on it in that period (road trip) i guess checking for them isn't too bad though so I'll see if I can find anything.

FIV Is not mentioned anywhere in the Helms? is that the same as the IAC valve? i didn't think of that but I did bypass the coolant going to it a few months ago. I hadn't had any problems so I kinda forgot about that.

 

Its in there. Its the fast idle thermo valve (page 11-101 if your helms is the same as mine).

It ups the idle till the wax in there gets hot and closes off the air passage passing the throttle plate.

 

It's not

that is right around all the idle control stuff and there is no mention of the FIV


[Modified by jweller, 3:14 PM 4/6/2003]

 

I had that before.. rpm would flutter from 750 to 1500 every second. I just turned off the car, pulled the ecu fuse, disconnected the negative from the battery, put back the fuse, drank a for 5 minutes, connected the negative back to the battery, and started the car back up. Lol yeah basically reset the ecu and Im fine now. Dont know it this will solve your problem though.

 

you might want to try resetting the ecu, or check you map sensor plug on top of the throttle body, it might be lose. if it still doesnt go away try checking your iac valve. if that does solve the problem then you are stuck like me, ive got ildling probs, while idling and while driving....and i replace everything from my throttle body which includes tp, map and fiv sensor, to my iac valve and i reset my ecu like a thousand time, still no change. my fuel rail and fuel injectors are new too.
good luck

 

i have the same type of problem with jumping idle... when i start it up it jumpes to 2000 and stays up there for a couple seconds and goes back down to 750 and then later on it might jump again to 1500 and back down... ive checked all the vacume lines... any ideas fellas?

 

done, and done. it's not either one of those thanks anyway

 

They're not rivets on the TPS. They're just flat screws. Look here.
it's a shitty picture, but you'll get the idea. Just take a hacksaw or dremel and cut a grove in the "rivet" then take a flat head screwdriver and unscrew it.

 

check for a vacuum leak and also check the pcv for correct operation.

many times have I had to deal with the pcv sticking causeing it to rev from 800-1800 and then drop and repeat over and over.

 

I had a similar trouble on a 90 accord. The trouble turned out to be a leak in the intake maniford gasket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the pcv for correct operation.

many times have I had to deal with the pcv sticking causeing it to rev from 800-1800 and then drop and repeat over and over.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I checked it and it clicked when I pinched the line but maybe I'll just replace it anyway. the part is so cheap.

It hasn't done it again since the last time. I hate intermittant problems