wondering what exactly would I need to perform this swap. My car is an 89 Si. I will obviously need the motor, tranny, equal length axles, ecu and motor mount kit. Did I miss anything out. Do I need the gsr wiring harness or can I hook up my harness to the ecu and change a few wires. If so which wires would I have to change around? What obd is the gsr, I heard that threw different years it changes, which obd is better can someone explain this to me please and would it make a diference on which one I use during the install process. Thanx all

 

shift linkage,wire conversion, all from hasport also i would get the engine mounts from them

 

10.3 disc's up front. You need something to stop you from 100mph

 

I'm in the process of doing it right now. Its not easy by any means. You have to convert the ODB level, up or down, which ever you choose. I also went with the GSR 4 wheel disk brak conversion. I just spent the past 2 hours converting the engine wire harness to ODB1.

 

well after you are done take a picture of the handy work!!!!

I have one but one of my homeboi did that for me.. I don't know I didn't try it yet...

its like 48wires Total I see he added 14 wires!!

 

You will have to have your engine harness converted to OBD1 or OBD2 and also have the ECU harness Converted to OBD1 or 2!!!

What ever year the GSR Motor is 92-95 OBD1.

Wiring will be your main problem ask around maybe someone can do your wiring for cheap and do it right..

The rest is easy if you have the right tools!!!

 

yes I forgot to mention linkages. Zc crx did u buy the wiring kit as well? Are you using ur harness that u presently have in ur crx or do u have the complete gsr harness. What years did the OBD1 come in for the GSR's. Thanx all
p.s I am planning to get the rear disk conversion so no worries for braking

 

thx bossman, I wanted to do the wiring myself though...is it that hard to do?

 

for wiring, contact blow90hatch, his harness are the key to all your poblem,
they go usually for cheap, ( around 200 )
they are really easy to use,
other that that, do like, me cut the main harrness, and each wire, one after one, pass it and repin it, ( took me LONG, I mean VERY LONG TIME ) to achieve it, and done right,

see ya
Kranked.

 

You will have to convert to atleast OBD I. You will want to run a P72 OBD I ECU. You will want to use an OBD I DOHC VTEC Bseries distributor. You will need to add wires for VTEC, VTEC Pressure, Knock, IAB, and 4 wires O2 sensor. You will have to relocate the ECT wires (extend them) as well. The swap is not hard, but you will need an aftermarket mount kit like from hasport, but you will need a B16 drivers side upper mount (the cast iron block half of the mount). You will want to use a cable tranny. You will want to get a shift linkage from hasport, a CRX SiR Shift linkage, or modify your shift linkage to work. Use a 1 gen B16 cable tranny or an early gen integra LS cable tranny, (ys1 cable if you can get your hands on one, its a B17A tranny I believe). Use a GSR throttle cable. 90-93 Integra radiator hoses worked for me. 5/8" heater core hose from the parts store. I think thats about it.

Hope you like wiring, this is 1 of MANY ways to do it. You could also solder OBD I plugs onto your stock harness so you have OBD I and OBD 0 plugs in case you ever go back to an OBD 0 motor.

 

Here as an option nobody has mentioned.
Buy a PR3 or PWO ECU.
I see those for sale on eBay and the parts trader all the time. ($200 to $250)
Then all you need to do is run 4 wires.
1. VTEC solenoid
2. VTEC pressure sending switch
3. Knock sensor
4. Secondary O2 sensor.

Most people with a DOHC VTEC engine at one point or another buy a VTEC controller. I would buy an APEX VTEC controller to help you dial in the air fuel mixture.

I am runing a 1.8 (B18C5) in my 90 CRX and I am using a PR3 ECU rechipped with the Mugen program. It puts down more HP than most 1.8's with OBD1.
That's after I dynoed and tuned the air fuel mixture.

I have done plenty of DOHC swaps on CRX's from mini me's to B16 to B18C1 and B18C5. I like to keep it simple and use OBD0. Less headache (wiring wise) and most often cheaper than the OBD1 route. And with the proper tuning you won't be giving anything up compared to OBD1 or 2

Just one more option to consider.

 

You are correct, there are many ways to do the swap. But a little discussion on your setup. a 1st gen b16 exhaust manifold is needed (or similar, or have your GSR manifold modified) to run (2) 1 wire O2 sensors. Otherwise your car will stumble in closed loop mode, if you dont throw a CEL. Since most GSR motors that I know of come with an exhaust manifold that has a bung for (1) 4 wire O2 sensor, its more parts to buy. Plus a PR3 or PW0 (which isnt inlcuded in a GSR swap) will not operate your IAB. Now you can gut the IAB and scrifice a little low end or swap to a different intake manifold like the skunk2, again losing a little low end. I suppose you could run an RPM activated switch to operate the IAB as well. But then with the PR3 or PW0 ECU, your kicking in VTEC at around 5,800 RPM when a GSR would normally switch at 4,400 RPM. You could remedy this with a VAFC but then its just 1 more part to buy. Personally, I'd rather spend $5 on a set of ECU plugs and make a harness like I did, rather than spend extra money on extra parts to save a little wiring trouble. This is a viable option though, its just #2 on my list of ways to do things. #1 on my list is the OEM setup


[Modified by Slurp56, 12:35 AM 4/2/2003]

 

SLURP,

what car you running the motor in?

DX MODEL what year..?

 

i like the obd1 route. obd0 distributors usually conk out all the time. and hard to find replacements for.

 

1988 :D
How'd you know it was a DX?

 

I gussed!!!

how fast you in 1/4 mile?

I am doing a SIR II pretty soon maybe next week or soo!!

My car is a 91 DX welcome to the family

 

My GOD, Make sure you don't go OBDII So stay below 96...95 or lower! I just slapped my motor in ls with a 96 gsr head. It sucked so bad, but man it pulls hard. I am sure someone said get the rear mount bracket off of a DA teg, and you'll be hood trimmin to get clearence from the valve cover. Best of luck

 

thanx guys, it seems like you all know ur stuff quite well. I can't believe this was on page 6 in one day and they gave me a 5 post a day 24 hour rule so it sucks and I couldn't reply. The only thing im worried about at this point is the wiring, it looks quite hard and does anyone know where the crank angle sensor is and the purpose of it. Thanx again everyone

 

do what he said running a very similar setup (see sig) very happy w/ it