I am trying to install my apex n1 exhaust on my hatch, but am running in to the problem of the ST sway bar being in the mix... I have to go over the bar, but that pretty much "locks" the exhaust pipe inbetween the sway bar and the bottom of the car... have any of you run in to this same problem?

TIA
Andrew

 

yea man. a couple of up hatch owners ran into this problem. i had trouble gettin the st bar in with my 2.25 cat back. so i cut out the axle back section, put the bar in and had the muffler shop rehang the axle-back. they just needed to moove the piping that comes over the lca more thward the center of the car. since u have the bar in alredy, id just go to the muffler shop and let them work it out.

-spenc

 

i had that problem, i think i unbolted the sway bar . no need to waste your $$$ @the muffler shop


[Modified by riceboyEFsi, 11:20 PM 3/26/2003]

 

I have the same problem, and it still rattles.. too lazy to go to an exhaust shop. Oh well...

 

yea, if u can fit it w/o removing exhaust, then go for it. i had to remove exhaust. u may be able to fit the exhaust if u unbolt the bar, like someone said. i dont know how bad the bar is in your way. give it a go and see what happens.

-spenc

 

so you did away with your sway bar? I just paid good money for it and would rather have that then the exhaust for the most part... I want to know how you got both to fit... not one or the other
Thanks

 

is ur new exhaust a bolt on cat back?

 

The exhaust is a catback system from thermal R&D (see sig), i just removed the sway bar so i could get the exhaust sytem in then i bolted it back up . I wouldnt remove the si sway bar is a buetiful thing

 

full catback... but either way, the sway bar would be in the way.. but I will try to remove it first and install the exhaust...

 

let us know

 

ST sway bars are the devil for catbacks lol. My Brospeed catback sits up against my sway bar all the way across the muffler! I have just delt with it until I get my custom exhaust done. Good luck and if you come up with any solutions without going to the muffler shop let us know!

 

I had the same problem installing my HKS. What I did was just unbolt the one tow hook thing and titled the bar to one side and slipped in the exhaust. Worked fine before. After I adjusted it to full stiffness though I had rubbing and rattling. Here was my ghetto fix for that...



Heatwrap around the exhaust pipe where it runs by the bar. Worked fairly well. I also think a shorter hanger would help but it might back the muffler vibrate against the spare tire well which would also suck.


[Modified by FourthGenHatch, 3:22 AM 3/28/2003]

 

I don't use this bar any more as I didn't like it and switched to a type-r bar but when I did use it I had a full exhaust and I also had rubbing on the pipe that goes over the control arm. So what you can do is extend the bracket lower to lower the bar(if you don't want to go to the exhaust shop). This works fine and has no effect on stiffness.OR if you just need a touch more space...try redrilling the holes for the d bracket down a bit.




[Modified by 89civicdx, 2:02 AM 3/28/2003]

 

for the guys who get my custom exhaust, let me know
i ve never heard anyone say anything to me bout the Sway bar getting in the way of my piping.

let me know
thanks


bump for good info

 

No problems

I don't get the ITR bar thing. Yes, the ITR bar is bigger than the rear CRX si bar, but it's not adjustable, limiting you to whatever the car does. I'm all about adjustability.

Oh, I have a custom universal muffler and custom crush bent piping (rock on). I paid $70 for my cat back and the engine makes maybe 1hp less than a HKAss cat back and probably 6inch pounts of torque less.


[Modified by Driven, 8:22 AM 3/28/2003]

 

Well actually you are right the off the shelf R bar is not adj...but this can be changed with a drill.

I HATE to post this pic as my car is suprisingly rotting away in storage even though I sprayed the the whole car with rust check so forgive the rotting and gunk.

My R bar has rod-ends and redrilled lever arms(max lever arm length maybe 2-2 & 1/2 " as opposed to say 5"(guess) lever arms in the above pic) much stiffer then the ST bar and from what I felt it was much lighter without the "L" brackets.

also sorry I don't have a pic without the diagrams


OHHH the HORROR!! Brutal rust on my $50 endlinks
If you know about the R bar the hole at the end is where the stock endlink usually goes
I had it there for a while then dilled the hole further down the arm to mak it stiffer...now the endlink goes straight up.
Even with 900lbs rear spring rates I can tell its there...not by much like when I had 650 rear rates but I know the bar is working.
But I'm not happy with this bar any more I have to make something custom since I don't run a muffler anymore I was thinking about some big 2" hollow tubing with welded on lever arms


[Modified by 89civicdx, 10:01 AM 3/28/2003]


[Modified by 89civicdx, 10:04 AM 3/28/2003]


[Modified by 89civicdx, 10:18 AM 3/28/2003]

 

What size are the ST sway bars for the EF and does it come with the L brackets?
Thanks.

 

ST bar is 22mm and comes with the L braket. I just sold mine today.

 

hmmm i wonder if it fits the DA
how much do they go for/how much did you sell yours?

 

The cheapest I found one online from a shop was $130 +S&H. I just sold mine for $100 shipped. Brand new.

 

Would you happen to have the link to that shop? thanks.