this is on a ITR head, do I have to take the cams out? or can I just take the valvecover off and switch them?

 

It's a little more involved than that. The valve cover, cam plates, cam caps, and timing belt all need to come off.

The hardest part is the timing belt. The tensioner bolt is a biatch to get to. Once the cams are out, you can sandwich them between some 2x4's in a vice to remove the cam gear bolts.

DO NOT USE AIR TOOLS to install your new cam gears.

Sonny

 

thanx for the info, if it's that hard, I might as well go for some skunk2 stage I's while Im at it.

 

good idea

 

You don't remove the cam plates or caps. Just the timing belt stuff.

Even then, you could get away with just slipping the belt off the camgears and then slipping them back on.

As long as the timing marks line up in the end.

 

You don't have to pull the cam caps. Just pull the valve cover and the upper timing cover. Set the engine at TDC with the "up" marks on the cam gears up, and the hash marks on the cam gears level with the head. Break the cam gear bolts loose, then loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt, apply pressure to the belt to get some slack, tighten the tensioner enough to hold the belt. Slide the belt off, and remove the cam pulley bolts the rest of the way. Slide the stock cam pulleys off, being careful not to lose the half-moon keyways. Install everything in the reverse order. Torque the cam pulley bolts to spec after you have the timing belt on and the timing belt properly tensioned. It is also not a bad time to do a valve adjustment.

 

I second that notion. remove the Valve Cover, set the motor to TDC. loosen the belt tensioner bolt, remove the upper timing cover. push in the sides of the belt, remove from over the cogs. place a wooden chuck between the gears and a allen key in the cam brakes (in the cam rails) to lock them in place. brake the bolts loose, slide them off watch out for the woodruff keys. dont lose them in the motor. be sure to drop rags around the motor where the belt is and near the mount to be safe. might need a magnetic tool just in case. heres another... before you do any of this, set the base timing to 16BTDC (please bridge the ECU). set your adjustable cam gears to 0,0. when you get it all back together... check the timing
again with it bridged to varify the gears are at TDC by seeing if it is still at 16BTDC> if not, you need to compensate at the gear to find true TDC on the gear. SOmetimes the etchings arent proper. to varify this, do that then do a +2 advance on the intake cam... check the timing again... it should be sitting at 18BTDC...

 

Very clever, guys. I never used the alignment pins in the cams to remove gears before. I was always afraid that I would break something since the cam gear bolts are torqued pretty tight.

What I did (which was tedious as hell) was to remove all cam caps and place a strip of paper between the cap and cam. When you torque it down, the cam cannot rotate.

Sonny

 

I have a B20 sittin here waitin for the swap and i have swap'd out the cams. How important is it that I set the valves right away or once the motors running?

thanks

Blaze

 

For removing cam gear bolts, I use on of these.



This one is a universal made by Lisle, but there's another company that makes smaller model specific cam holders. I don't recall the name though...

--
Tom


[Modified by real9999, 10:43 PM 3/22/2003]

 

how much do these run?


[Modified by Allstar, 6:04 PM 3/22/2003]

 

http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/to...select=&page=5