Alignment done, need some opinions
Alright...I needed to get an alignment done on the car, so here it is...
please note that the rear tires are Falken Azenis that are worn significantly on the inside.

full size, cut and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...1.jpg.orig.jpg
please note that the rear tires are Falken Azenis that are worn significantly on the inside.

full size, cut and paste:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...1.jpg.orig.jpg
here are my last settings...
I hope to update soon (zero toe F&R).
__________LF_____RF
camber: (-0.77)_(-0.79) <--- almost like yours
caster:..(+3.15)_(+3.03) <--- upper a-arm swap did that
toe:......(+0.02)_(+0.01)
__________LR_____RR
camber: (-0.62)_(-1.36) <--- looks like ~ yours
toe:......(+0.08)_(+0.10)
I hope to update soon (zero toe F&R).
__________LF_____RF
camber: (-0.77)_(-0.79) <--- almost like yours
caster:..(+3.15)_(+3.03) <--- upper a-arm swap did that
toe:......(+0.02)_(+0.01)
__________LR_____RR
camber: (-0.62)_(-1.36) <--- looks like ~ yours
toe:......(+0.08)_(+0.10)
What's the ride height of the car Austin?? F/R?? Lowered alot??
I asked for 1/8" total out, 1/16" per side for the front, and 0 in the rear. He said that every time that the wind blew it through his measurements off, and he had to wait for the wind to stop blowing, I thought that was an interesting observation.
Austin
Austin
He said that every time that the wind blew it through his measurements off, and he had to wait for the wind to stop blowing, I thought that was an interesting observation.

y
shi - who hopes austin's new alignment works out for him at the track this weekend
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I just got mine done too.
The first one was on a Hunter 611 w/ the 4 digital cameras and targets. The targets did not sit squarely on the wheel (bad tech) so it was off. These were the indicated specs. In reality, the front toe was off 0.5 on both sides, and the right rear toe and camber were off. I found this out this morning when I got it realigned at a different Firestone (lifetime alignment).
The specs:
Front
Toe:
L 0.00
R 0.00
Camber:
L -1.4
R -1.6
Caster
L 0.3
R 1.4
Rear
Toe:
L 0.00
R 0.00
Thrust Angle: 0.00
Camber:
L -.09
R -1.5
The second, more precise alignment:
They had an older Hunter rack with the beam heads...The heads clamp between the tire and the rim so they mount more solidly. The optical heads on the 611 rack mount on the inside of the lip.
Front
Toe:
L 0.01
R 0.02
Camber:
L -.09
R -1.4
Caster
L 0.7
R 1.4
Rear
Toe:
L 0.01
R 0.02
Thrust Angle: 0.02
Camber:
L -.09
R -1.1
The car tracks straight now, and the tech that did it was cool. He used to have a CX/LS-VTEC and an Integra, but now he drives a ZX3 Focus. I asked for 0.00 Toe F/R, but it kept jumping around so this is the closest they got.
Older Hunter racks
The first one was on a Hunter 611 w/ the 4 digital cameras and targets. The targets did not sit squarely on the wheel (bad tech) so it was off. These were the indicated specs. In reality, the front toe was off 0.5 on both sides, and the right rear toe and camber were off. I found this out this morning when I got it realigned at a different Firestone (lifetime alignment).
The specs:
Front
Toe:
L 0.00
R 0.00
Camber:
L -1.4
R -1.6
Caster
L 0.3
R 1.4
Rear
Toe:
L 0.00
R 0.00
Thrust Angle: 0.00
Camber:
L -.09
R -1.5
The second, more precise alignment:
They had an older Hunter rack with the beam heads...The heads clamp between the tire and the rim so they mount more solidly. The optical heads on the 611 rack mount on the inside of the lip.
Front
Toe:
L 0.01
R 0.02
Camber:
L -.09
R -1.4
Caster
L 0.7
R 1.4
Rear
Toe:
L 0.01
R 0.02
Thrust Angle: 0.02
Camber:
L -.09
R -1.1
The car tracks straight now, and the tech that did it was cool. He used to have a CX/LS-VTEC and an Integra, but now he drives a ZX3 Focus. I asked for 0.00 Toe F/R, but it kept jumping around so this is the closest they got.
Older Hunter racks
I have a question.
I just installed the Skunk2 camber kit and set the camber to 1.25 on both sides using the Quick Race camber gauge (I know it is not precise but it will do until I get it done as soon as I install the rear camber kit this weekend). I should mention I have GC/Koni Sport at 350F/400R with the Mugen 26mm rear bar. For the street I set the Konis to 3/4 stiff in the front and the rears are at full stiff 24/7. I am running on stock wheels with 205/50/15 Azenis
Now my questions are?
1) Why do most people set the camber on the left less than on the right?
-If it is because of weight transfer in the turn and wouldn't a weight balancing take care of that where you would not need it?
2) With the current adjustment when I take a turn at the same speed I used to, the tire starts screeching, not a lot, just enought to hear it
- Is this because of the 1.25 left camber and would making the camber more like 0.75 fix this or at least help?
- And I will say that stiffening the shocks will help with this as well.
3) the steering is much softer and sensitive, my theory is because of the camber adjustment and the fact that the tires are not flat on the ground right?
4) The left wheel rubs at full lock but not the right even though the left side is higher than the right, does anyone else have this problem? and I will say spacers will fix this or at least help. (the fender well edge is at 1 1/2 fingers from the top fo the tire on the right and 2 + on the left). If anyone wants I can take a tape measure and check the height.
Some of these things I will say are common sense and I know the answers to, but I just want to make sure I am not missing anything or misunderstanding the process.
Thanks
--Racing is a learning process--
I just installed the Skunk2 camber kit and set the camber to 1.25 on both sides using the Quick Race camber gauge (I know it is not precise but it will do until I get it done as soon as I install the rear camber kit this weekend). I should mention I have GC/Koni Sport at 350F/400R with the Mugen 26mm rear bar. For the street I set the Konis to 3/4 stiff in the front and the rears are at full stiff 24/7. I am running on stock wheels with 205/50/15 Azenis
Now my questions are?
1) Why do most people set the camber on the left less than on the right?
-If it is because of weight transfer in the turn and wouldn't a weight balancing take care of that where you would not need it?
2) With the current adjustment when I take a turn at the same speed I used to, the tire starts screeching, not a lot, just enought to hear it
- Is this because of the 1.25 left camber and would making the camber more like 0.75 fix this or at least help?
- And I will say that stiffening the shocks will help with this as well.
3) the steering is much softer and sensitive, my theory is because of the camber adjustment and the fact that the tires are not flat on the ground right?
4) The left wheel rubs at full lock but not the right even though the left side is higher than the right, does anyone else have this problem? and I will say spacers will fix this or at least help. (the fender well edge is at 1 1/2 fingers from the top fo the tire on the right and 2 + on the left). If anyone wants I can take a tape measure and check the height.
Some of these things I will say are common sense and I know the answers to, but I just want to make sure I am not missing anything or misunderstanding the process.
Thanks
--Racing is a learning process--
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