so i am pretty sure the valves on my ZC head are bent so i figured its time to see what a "big" mod (p+p head, upgraded valve train) can do vs the "little" mods (i/h/e, cam gears, etc.).

what valves can i use in a ZC head? what model honda do i get them for?

also, what about springs and retainers for a ZC? what mode honda do i get them for?

as for a cam that is up for debate right now. i might do like someone suggested in the ZC cam thread and get my stock cams reground.
thanks.

 

what happened did your belt break?

I have stock zc cams/gears if you want em for free(just pay for shipping

you can use em as core for your regrinds or whatever.

I think I have valves too and some cam bearings...basicaly its just junk lying around in my basement...but I'll have to look.

 

ok here's the scenario so far...its complicated but try to follow along.

the accident
the car was just started and was leaving a snowy parking lot. the driver said they hit some slushy snow and the car went to about redline. when the driver let off the accelerator, the car died out, the steering locked and the car spun out. the driver tried to restart the car to no avail. the next day i had the car towed to my garage.

side note the car was due for an oil change as it had been about 4 months since one. the car was only driven like 1000 miles in that 4 months, though.

troubleshooting
here is a list of things i checked:
- timing belt is not broken. i didn't check to see if it jumped teeth but is is def. not broken.
- i have fuel
- have spark, albeit a weak spark but i think that is due to a low charge on my battery
- compression numbers were taken. nothing ever goes right so i had to do it twice since my battery was dying.

1st pass = 90, 90, 170, 170
<u>note:</u> when i checked the compression on cyl 3, i hooked up a battery charger as my battery was dying. then i checked the compression on cyl #4 and #4.

2nd pass = 130, 100, 30, 100
<u>note:</u> the battery charger was hooked up for all 4 measurements. i went and checked #3 twice and it came out to 30 again.


conclusion?
since the car was not right for a long time, the compression numbers might not be that high. i was more concerned with the delta between each cyl.

the weird thing is #3 & #4 had high compression numbers the 1st time i checked. the second time #3 was bad. maybe the valves were at a certain point the 1st time so the compression was good then moved to the bent part and that is why the compression numbers were bad?

also at one point the motor turned over kind of ruff when checking compression. i wonder if that is the reason for the lower numbers on the 2nd pass?

a very confused breaka_1_9.

 

Pretty much your only option on parts is from an 86-89 teg.

No one makes performance valve train for the teg, so us ZC fans are all pretty much out of luck.

I have heard good things about Crower cam regrinds...

 

if you want to check if you have any bent valves just pull the cover off and look at the height of the valve retainer/stem when the cam is not on them so if valve 1 is bent it will be lower then valve 2 or if 1&2 are bent they will be lower then 3&4

 

ok i think i understand what you are saying...

basically the valve stem should be HIGHER when the cam is not on them and LOWER when the cam is on them? so if the cam isn't on a certain valve and the stem is LOWER than one with the cam on it, it is bent?

 

hope this makes some kind sense

 

yeah it makes sense.

i am just wondering what the position of the valve stem is when the cam is on it. does it sit "high" or "low". i would think "high" as the cam is on the end of the valve pushing it down which in turn would pick the valve stem up making it sit "high".

 

another thing breaka, with a starter bypass, you can crank the engine over, with no spark plugs, and lay your thumb over one hole, and see if it trys to suck your finger down the hold.. heh.. be carefull, i did it on a B16 milled .60.. lol that **** hurt.. but that will tell you where your loosing out.. but obviously your loose it, if you did compression.. but check your timing, i skiped both cams on a B16 once.. my car... and it still ran, like ****, but ran, and i ended up bending all exhaust valves.. stainless steel ******* too..

another thing.. if you really wanna know what happen, you could do a leakdown compression test.. for those of you don't know what that is, you basicly, make that cyl. TDC, and shoot air in.. you compress that cyl with the help of a compressor.. that way you can actaully see, and hear where the air is going.. weather or not its going through the intake or exhust valves.. ive caught bypass at the rings once like that.. alot of blow by in the PCV... not good..

 

When i got the port & polish and valve job, i bought the springs and retainers for the 89 integra (D16A1), they seem to be working fine... as for the valves, im not 100% sure, but the 89 integra should fit too...

 

breaka, for valvetrain upgrade, get in touch with a guy named superchargedzc, he was on superhonda and crxpower, or the new owner of his car, crxrocks (chris), and I think crxrocks resides at the crx resourse. He fully upgraded the valvetrain on that thing, and I remember it was a bit of a task figuring out what to use. superchargedzc has his own message boards somewhere, sorry, thats the best I can do for now.

 

i just really wanna know if anybody in teh UK can get valve train components; tehy can obviously get cams..........
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=431669

 

thanks for the contacts cottagecreep. i PM'd them both.

 

breaka

i talked to crxrocks from CRX resource earlier today, he said he didn't have time to reply just yet, he would have time later.. so you should expect a post from him latr on tonight.

 

The head was rebuilt with STOCK components, nothing upgraded. It does have a 5 angle valve job and a good port and polish, though. Yes, you should use 86-89 teg components, but finding aftermarket pieces will be tough. I have heard that the b18a (LS) valves can be used, but need to be machined to work properly.

Sorry I can't be more help than that, but at least the LS valves might give a direction to head. If you do find any good information, please shoot me an email at crxrocks@thezcr.com.

Also, I would bet that the stock components will probably meet your needs. Did you want to dramatically increase your lift/duration or rev higher? Just curious as to what your plans are.

Chris


[Modified by crxrocks, 1:25 AM 3/7/2003]

 

I hear ZC loves them Carbs, and also from ppl that Web cams makes great cams for the ZC.

 

i will have to look into this. time to find specs on the 86-89 teg valves and the b18a valves.


if i find any info i will def. email you.


i would like to rev a bit higher but i am not sure what rpm the bottom end can handle. as for a cam i am not sure what i would go with yet, but i would think increase lift/duration would be a possibility.

 

FYI...

Larry from Endyn told me he would machine some of their performance LS valves for the ZC. Price was around 200.

The R/S ratio of the D series pretty much makes reving a D series past 8K pointless. The power will normally fall off pretty fast past 7500.

Crower regrinds are really your best bet for cams. Plus it's only around 150.

 

thanks for the info bryson...i might have to talk to larry @ endyn.