Whats needed for rear brake conversion to rotors on a 94 cx hatch??

 

How does one go about putting GS-R 4-wheel discs on his or her 1992-1995 Civic?

I purchased all 4 corners of suspension from a 1998 Integra GS-R. This was all of the lower control arms, all 4 spindles, rear trailing arms with e-brake cables, and of course all four corners of the brakes. Everything was still bolted together when it arived and there is no need to take any of it apart unless you will be replacing the rotors (I recommend this) and brake pads. I also got the rear and front swaybars too, but I only used the rear one.

The entire rear trailing arms bolt right up from the Integra to the Civic. Hook up the e-brake cables and you're set in the rear.

Up front the entire spindles again will bolt right up from the Integra to the Civic.

So here's the ever-popular question about the brakes:

Which master cylinder, booster, and prop valve am I running?

I am running an Integra RS master cylinder and booster. Why the RS? The RS is the only 1994-up Integra WITHOUT ABS, so there was not a single bit of line bending or reflaring to get it in. I used the RS booster as well, but you could use an LS one if you cannot find the RS one.

I recommend buying a new M/C from Acura. They're listed at like $160.00 but you can get a better deal for sure - I'll be back with the part number.

There is only one potential problem with the RS m/c with an LS/GS-R booster, and it is easy to find and fix. Fit up the RS m/c to your booster and if it fits very flush very easily then you're fine. If you have to kind of push on it to fit it flush and it feels "spring loaded" then you must trim 3/4 of an inch off of the booster rod on the engine bay side. It's very easy to do.

I bolted in an Integra GS-R prop valve too, but I don't know what year it was. It had the exact same line configuration as the stock Civic one, but the only difference is that on the 1992-1993 Civics the bracket is flatter than the 1994-up Civic and Integra brackets - I simply flattened the GS-R one out and it bolted up.

This is 100% line bending and flaring free - 100% direct bolt-up.

If you have any questions about the set-up I run, then feel free to ask here. The pics are pretty and all, but I hope that some more good tech info comes from this thread too in regards to my particular set-up and why I chose some of the things that I did.

 

Let me add to that...

If you're swapping to rear discs thinking it'll help you stop, it WON'T.

You need bigger front brakes before you need rear discs.

My pal's Dx hatch with rear drums and GS-R fronts outbrakes my fiancee's 1992 Si hatch with smaller fronts and rear discs all day long.

Rear discs help with brake balance and overall braking once you 've already upgraded the front to bigger specs, but by themselves rear discs are a shitty worthless mod with stock front CX brakes.

 

Hey Tom;
When I worked out at IAS we used to sell people 40/40 prop. valves off of '90-'93 non-abs integras. Larry has those and they are the way to go. I used that same setup on the LS/ JRSC swap and the B16B without any stopping problems. My car was a '92 CX. I don't know if that is the prop. valve you are thinking of but that is what Larry sold to all the guys.. BTW I hope you are doing well..... Been a while since I saw you... I bought be a 4 dr DB8 from larry and the swap will be going in this weekend .....


[Modified by 4thapack, 4:30 AM 3/6/2003]

 

Are you using a front swaybar? If not, what is the reason for not using one?

 

I like to have an ***-happy car. Front swaybar will only induce a bit more understeer unless I get a much bigger bar in the rear than my current 14mm bar.