I'm pondering getting a jdm b18c5 from a 99 type r. I want to put it into my 92 cx. Not gonna go the h22a route like I thought, hence the motor mounts for sale in the classifieds lol. I was just inquiring about the obd II motor into the obd I car, since the motor is JDM. Will I have to get an obd II to obd I wiring harness, if so where? Sorry, just not sure how it works since it's jdm. The swap comes with axles and mounts in addition to everything else, so I should be set for that.

 

Get a 00-01 ITR wiring harness and everything should be gravy.

OBD 2 - OBD 1 harnesses are only if you want to run a different OBD ecu than what came with your car.

 

EG's are OBD I though...you will have to get an OBD II --> OBD I harness

you can get them on JDM Honda Parts and from HT members in the classifieds


[Modified by BauleyCivic, 4:37 AM 3/5/2003]

 

Don't post info unless it's correct.

You don't need a harness unless you want to run an ecu that is anything but OBD 1.

The harness won't convert the motor to OBD 1. It will only convert your ecu to something else.

 

Get a chipped P28. It's OBD1, you wont have to run the wire for a knock sensor. Also since your car is a 92, the VTEC solenoid and VTEC oil pressure wires are already in your wiring harness (Orange/White and Orange/Blue on the plugs in the engine bay near your passenger side strut tower )

 

thanks...learn something new everyday

on me

 

Also, you might want to get a USDM Vtec solenoid. They (JDM motors) don't come with a vtec pressure switch to my knowledge. Something that your ecu will look for. So, you'll get a code. Or you can jump the wire..not quite sure how that works, but I'm sure someone can chime in..


[Modified by fowler, 8:43 PM 3/4/2003]

 

just use a obdII usdm gsr or itr engine harness, and plug up a obd1 ecu... everything should be plug and play... correct me if im wrong though, i like to learn... l8rz

 

so the best advice would be to get a chipped p28 and a usdm vtec solenoid? what wiring harness? what is the p28 out of? usdm or itr? and what does the chipped p28 cost, typically?

 

Use the engine harness that comes with motor (Assuming it hasn't been cut). It will reach to the chassis harness.

Use a rechipped P28 or Hondata and use a USDM vtec solenoid. Car should fire right up..........That's what I did.

 

P28 is from a D16Z6 motor (SOHC VTEC Civic EX/Si 92-95). Get that and chip it. If you are using an OBD2 motor, you will most likely need an OBD2 harness (USDM GSR or USDM ITR from 96-01) because there are some plugs on the OBD2 motor that have different connectors than your Civic's OBD1 wiring harness. If you are using an OBD1 motor, just use your civic wiring harness and you will need to add a few wires and extend a few as well (it's easy...ask me how if you can't figure that out).

 

I'm selling this... It will allow you to plug in your ITR ecu...$165 shipped!



[Modified by jg, 9:22 AM 3/5/2003]

 

What OBD2 harness are you speaking of for the ECU or for the Chassis???

 

heres a post from b18c5-eh2 from a few months back.... its very informative and should clear any questions you have....
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So here some tech directly related to the 1992-1995 Civic in terms of my set-up:
B18C5 engine wiring into a 1992-1995 Civic:

IMO the USDM ITR swap is easier to swap in. I've done this swap 3 times already and it is 100% easy especially if you run a re-chipped P28 and even more so if you have a 1992 Civic or any 1992-1995 Si, VX, or EX with VTEC wires.

Here's what you'd need too do if you have a USDM ITR swap:

KEEP the ITR engine harness. Regardless of what others say the plugs all plug right in. This way you get to keep the newer ITR distributor and injectors, and there is no need to rewire anything. Again this is from experience, not hearsay.

You'll have a few extra plugs left over on the ITR harness because the ITR has a few extras that our Civics don't have, like ABS, etc. You vcan just hide the extra plugs.

Now there's a few different ways to get an ECU to work, and I'll list them from easiest to hardest:

1. Re-chipped P28. This will simply plug in. No need to wire up for a knock sensor because the P28 doesn't read for one. Better fuel, timing, VTEC x-over, and rev limiter = more power. OBD1 so no need at all to run any sort of extra sensors.

2. Kenji OBD2 jumper harness and JDM P73 ECU. I ran this on my motor for a while before the kenji ECU. You'll have to wire up a knock sensor wire and that's about it. Drawbacks are that this ECU has a 113-115 speed limiter and it doesn't make the power that the kenji-spec P28 does. ThisECU has OBD2 type plugs but IT RUNS AN OBD1 PROGRAM AND IT IS ONLY OBD2 IN PLUGS!!! I ran this ECU with no extra o2 sensor, no crank fluctuation bullshit, etc.

3. Jumper harness with USDM P73 ECU. Why? I wouldn't do this unless I was in Cali and it was necessary for smog bullshit. You'd have to wire up all the extra OBD2 bullshit and the ECU sucks compared to a re-chipped P28.

So that's for the USDM motors, but what about the JDM ITR swaps?

As Apexi-ITR has said the JDM harness can be used. It requires some stretching but it will work. If you must get the factory look then get any OBD2 type engine harness from any USDM B18C1 or B18C5 and then it will plug right in just like I said the USDM swap does.

As far as ECU stuff goes, really a P28 is the better choice again but you will need to add a VTEC oil pressure switch onto the JDM ITR motor because it doesn't have one and the P28 looks for one. Just pull an oil pressure switch from another VTEC motor - didn't you use a SOHC one Apexi-ITR?

Or you can run the jumper harness and O.E JDM P73 ECU. This will save you from having to add the oil pressure switch, but you'll have to add a knock sensor and this ECU still has the shitty speed limiter.

USDM ECU? But why?

That's about all I can think of right now. I run the kenji-spec P28 ECU in my 1992 CX hatchback and with this method and keeping the ITR engine harness I did not have to add one single wire at all! It was absolutely 100% plug and play!

So what about the brakes set-up I have? How does one go about putting GS-R 4-wheel discs on his or her 1992-1995 Civic?

I purchased all 4 corners of suspension from a 1998 Integra GS-R. This was all of the lower control arms, all 4 spindles, rear trailing arms with e-brake cables, and of course all four corners of the brakes. Everything was still bolted together when it arived and there is no need to take any of it apart unless you will be replacing the rotors (I recommend this) and brake pads. I also got the rear and front swaybars too, but I only used the rear one.

The entire rear trailing arms bolt right up from the Integra to the Civic. Hook up the e-brake cables and you're set in the rear.

Up front the entire spindles again will bolt right up from the Integra to the Civic.

So here's the ever-popular question about the brakes:

Which master cylinder, booster, and prop valve am I running?

I am running an Integra RS master cylinder and booster. Why the RS? The RS is the only 1994-up Integra WITHOUT ABS, so there was not a single bit of line bending or reflaring to get it in. I used the RS booster as well, but you could use an LS one if you cannot find the RS one.

I recommend buying a new M/C from Acura. They're listed at like $160.00 but you can get a better deal for sure - I'll be back with the part number.

There is only one potential problem with the RS m/c with an LS/GS-R booster, and it is easy to find and fix. Fit up the RS m/c to your booster and if it fits very flush very easily then you're fine. If you have to kind of push on it to fit it flush and it feels "spring loaded" then you must trim 3/4 of an inch off of the booster rod on the engine bay side. It's very easy to do.

I bolted in an Integra GS-R prop valve too, but I don't know what year it was. It had the exact same line configuration as the stock Civic one, but the only difference is that on the 1992-1993 Civics the bracket is flatter than the 1994-up Civic and Integra brackets - I simply flattened the GS-R one out and it bolted up.

This is 100% line bending and flaring free - 100% direct bolt-up.

If you have any questions about the set-up I run, then feel free to ask here. The pics are pretty and all, but I hope that some more good tech info comes from this thread too in regards to my particular set-up and why I chose some of the things that I did.

Thanks for looking y0!

 

I was just about to repost that info!



You beat me to it - good show chap!

 

he's exactly right... you dont need the changeover unless you want to go OBDI. Otherwise, the plug will go right into the p72(or whatever the psomething it is) ecu.

 

That's why you get a rechipped p28. (User kenji on this board does it.) The p28 does not search for that or o2/knock sensor, so you won't get a code.

Good luck w/ the project.

 

damn! how long did it take you to make the jumper with the same colored wires through the whole thing? my eyes hurt just looking at it. anyhow, hot **** tho!

 

I bought that thing from Katman. I didn't put it together. I had originally bought it to use the ITR ecu that came with the 2001 ITR swap I have in my car. I ended up using the Hondata I already had in the car. So I figured i'd sell the jumper harness with the ITR swap this spring when my b20vtec is finished and tuned, but if someone needs it i'll be happy to sell the jumper separately.
Here's the (super clean - 17,000 kilometer) ITR motor i'll be selling...