Ok, I am using LS rods in a d series block. it is a d16z6, and I will be using the z6 pistons, this is a turbo project. The problem is, the LS wrist pin is 21mm, and the D is 19mm. Now, should I rebush the rod to accept the 19mm wrist pins? Or should I bore out the wrist pin holes in the piston to accept the 21mm wrist pin?

Now for the second part. Using these rods, they are thicker than my d rods, and don't leave enough play when they are inside the piston, like side to side movement of the rod for expansion and optimal floating etc. So, can I shave a little out of the piston, inside where the rod sits, or do I have to be gay and shave down the rod a little? Please respond with reasoning behind the proper way.

if you can answer these, you are a TRUE honda guru


[Modified by cottagecreep, 3:41 AM 2/28/2003]

 

Thats a tough ?....You def. shouldnt bore out the rod.....in all honesty that can enhance the chances of failure later but if you oh say get a thicker bushing or double up bushings then youll prob. spin one really easily....

alls I have to ask is what is the stroke on LS rods....and wont they by chance be to long....Im prettty sure the deck height is taller in a b series then a D series.

 

Using LS rods in a D-series motor is a very common inexpensive build-up alternative. It has been done before, and I don't think the stroke changes with this setup.

Remember, not all B-series motors have the same crankshaft like D-series do.

 

shave the rod

 

The rod length is the same. The problem with the bushing is obvious, and thats why I was curious about boring out the piston to accept the 21mm wrist pin, than shaving the inside of the piston to give the rod more side to side movement. I would like to not touch the rod for obvious reasons. However, bushing a rod can be done, using amco 45 bronze as the material, it is common to do so, but I would like to change the piston, and not the rod as mentioned.

Oh and btw, saying, shave the rod, is a useless comment. If you are so great, I ask why the rod? How much? What machining process? Why not the piston?

 

In the Oct. 2002 issue of Turbo Mag there is a whole article on the V8-TT celica. Robert Fulco had to drop the wrist pin bore of the rods to get a lower compression and he used concentric bushings to keep the same size bore. If the drag celica that broke 200 mph, with a bushing'd rod im sure you could use the bushings in the ls rods and im sure they would be fine if you do it right. As for the rods hitting the pistons, i don't know, but shaving the rods wouldn't be very wise, that would make it less structurelly (sp) sound, u know what i mean. just my 2 cents. Peace

 

u dont wanna do that
takes some of the strenght off the rod..... will get weak and will not be worthed

 

IMHO, i think you should rebush the ls rod to accept the d series sized pin. any automotive machine can be able to do this easily. also you probably need to shave the small end of the rod .070-.080 total so about .035 to .040. this is no biggie, all the ls/vtec guys do this.

 

i have this done. if you rebush the ls rod you have to get a floating pin style pistons, or machine retaining clips into your piston. I went with srp pistons. when all is said and done. it really isnt that cheap. I honestly would go back and get eagle rods. but you might have better hook ups for me. I dont thinkn the small end is a problem. (at least not withthe srp's) the big end is too wide to fit into the crank journal so you have to machine that down.

if you can fine soem civic gx pistons i hear they have a bigger wrist pin than the noraml civics, high compression though.