92 EX .. crazy idle and no heat... ARG
I thought maybe it was the distributor causing the rough idle until I noticed the car wasn't heating too well. Anyone have any ideas what it could be?
The car idles from 1.5K - 2K. It raises up to almost 2K then suddenly drops to 1.5 or so, then climbes back up to 2K and repeats the process.
Anyone had this problem, and if so, how'd you fix it?
[Modified by B16sinful, 7:48 AM 2/26/2003]
The car idles from 1.5K - 2K. It raises up to almost 2K then suddenly drops to 1.5 or so, then climbes back up to 2K and repeats the process.
Anyone had this problem, and if so, how'd you fix it?
[Modified by B16sinful, 7:48 AM 2/26/2003]
It could possibly be air in the cooling system. Check for coolant leaks, and if you find any, you'll very likely have to fix it and then redo the coolant. Make sure to follow the correct procedure i.e. drain, fill with bleeder bolt loose, tighten when steady stream comes out, fill rad, run car with rad cap off, fill until no air left, cap it and top the reservoir. Heck get a manual if you don't have one already 
Other candidates are possibly the fast idle valve and a sticking thermostat. A sticking thermostat wouldn't cause idle fluctuations though, just heat problems.
[Modified by StimpyBoy, 2:21 PM 2/25/2003]

Other candidates are possibly the fast idle valve and a sticking thermostat. A sticking thermostat wouldn't cause idle fluctuations though, just heat problems.
[Modified by StimpyBoy, 2:21 PM 2/25/2003]
It all started shortly after driving through some crazy water thaat was laying on the road. I was thinking the dist' got wet, but I doubt that woudl cause heating issues.
My friend was following me in my accord while I drove my new CRX home, and the puddle was so deap that it went up and over the top of the CRX and into the sunroof when I drove through it. He came through the puddles right after me, and later that night when we stopped at teh hotel to rest for hte evening, we noticed a small "chirping" that sounded like a belt sweak, but was coming from the opposite side of the motor, so I thought it was the distributor. But like I said, that doesn't explain the heating issue.
Lastnight I drove the accord home from work, and it's about a 35 mile drive. The heater was set to blow in the outside air with the heat all the way on, the blower all the way up and the panel set at the feet and defrost setting. When I got home the windows were cleared, but there was still not much heat blowing out of the vents. It could be because the weather was 5 degrees lastnight around here, and trying to heat the outside air was the problem.
My friend was following me in my accord while I drove my new CRX home, and the puddle was so deap that it went up and over the top of the CRX and into the sunroof when I drove through it. He came through the puddles right after me, and later that night when we stopped at teh hotel to rest for hte evening, we noticed a small "chirping" that sounded like a belt sweak, but was coming from the opposite side of the motor, so I thought it was the distributor. But like I said, that doesn't explain the heating issue.
Lastnight I drove the accord home from work, and it's about a 35 mile drive. The heater was set to blow in the outside air with the heat all the way on, the blower all the way up and the panel set at the feet and defrost setting. When I got home the windows were cleared, but there was still not much heat blowing out of the vents. It could be because the weather was 5 degrees lastnight around here, and trying to heat the outside air was the problem.
Ok, I narrowed it down to the thermostat. MANY people I've talked to said that if the engine and heater aren't blowing the right, it' probably that the thermostat is stuck open.
I read the haynes as to where the thermostat is, and they say in the upper radiator hose.. but it's NOT there. I found it in the lower radiator hose!!! lol
[Modified by B16sinful, 7:49 AM 2/26/2003]
I read the haynes as to where the thermostat is, and they say in the upper radiator hose.. but it's NOT there. I found it in the lower radiator hose!!! lol
[Modified by B16sinful, 7:49 AM 2/26/2003]
changing the thermostat should help just make sure you do it right. i had to do it twice but then again im a chick.lol
[Modified by Cyndi, 10:29 PM 2/26/2003]
[Modified by Cyndi, 10:29 PM 2/26/2003]
Yeah, lol. The Haynes manual told me to look in the wrong plac, so I spilled twice the neccessary coolant. lol
Just a tidbit for anyone changing the thermo in an accord. The thermostat is in the LOWER radiator hose, NOT the upper like all the manuals say. lol
Just a tidbit for anyone changing the thermo in an accord. The thermostat is in the LOWER radiator hose, NOT the upper like all the manuals say. lol
how to fix crazy idle
copied crown royal from a post on hs
im going to be your saving grace on this subject, listen to how i explaine this and your problem will be solved... on your intake manifold you have part on there that has a lid on it thats held with two phillip screws, if your in front of your car look where your pcv valve is then its on your right of that. it has two rubber hoses connected to the bottom of it, do you see it haha, now that piece when your cars on has air going through there, when your cars cold unlosen the screws and open the lid up inside it will be a piece that almost resembles a small thermostat, surrounded by a yellow housing. there are two flat head like inserts in that yellow housing now start your car and when it starts idling funny turn the yellow housing using a flat head clock wise, that will bring your rpms down and the erratic idle to a stop. when you find the sweet spot close the lid back up and fine tune your adjustment by adjusting the idle screw thats right behind your bracket for your vacumm lines on the back of your intake manifold, what that does is increase or decrease the amount of air your intake sucks in.. just play around with those two pieces until your satisfied with how your car idles/runs you might have to adjust it again the next day or so until you get it to where its supposed to be. mine used to do it bad. until i fixed it now it doesnt do it at all, i also fixed my boys 4th gen as well.. do that before you even think about buying a throttle position sensor because the dealers want like 450 for it... sorry for being so long....hope it works out for ya..
[Modified by Broman78, 8:54 AM 2/27/2003]
copied crown royal from a post on hs
im going to be your saving grace on this subject, listen to how i explaine this and your problem will be solved... on your intake manifold you have part on there that has a lid on it thats held with two phillip screws, if your in front of your car look where your pcv valve is then its on your right of that. it has two rubber hoses connected to the bottom of it, do you see it haha, now that piece when your cars on has air going through there, when your cars cold unlosen the screws and open the lid up inside it will be a piece that almost resembles a small thermostat, surrounded by a yellow housing. there are two flat head like inserts in that yellow housing now start your car and when it starts idling funny turn the yellow housing using a flat head clock wise, that will bring your rpms down and the erratic idle to a stop. when you find the sweet spot close the lid back up and fine tune your adjustment by adjusting the idle screw thats right behind your bracket for your vacumm lines on the back of your intake manifold, what that does is increase or decrease the amount of air your intake sucks in.. just play around with those two pieces until your satisfied with how your car idles/runs you might have to adjust it again the next day or so until you get it to where its supposed to be. mine used to do it bad. until i fixed it now it doesnt do it at all, i also fixed my boys 4th gen as well.. do that before you even think about buying a throttle position sensor because the dealers want like 450 for it... sorry for being so long....hope it works out for ya..
[Modified by Broman78, 8:54 AM 2/27/2003]
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