mkrieger500

Hello everyone. I have a 93 accord ex 2.2L. Recently I had to change the radiator, and while I was at it, I flushed the coolant system and changed the thermostat. The pin on the top of the thermostat is where it should be. I don't know if I didn't bleed the coolant system enough or what but at a stop light or idling, my heat slowly gets cooler. While I am driving it is ok. A long time ago I adjusted the fitv and screwed the white part in till it was snug to try and fix the rough idle problem but then my cold start idle went away. I have loosened it back up since then and lately the car wants to stay at the cold idle speed every now and then and some times it bounces back and forth between the normal idle and cold idle almost like a surge. I never should have messed with it, but my question is what could be causing this? I have been thinking about biting the bullet and buying a new fitv And iacv! The iacv might fix the idle and the fitv might fix my heat and fast idle issue. Any comments or ideas are appreciated!

nus_dogg

Wait, I'd check your heater control valve located at the firewall if you follow the heater hose from the head back and see if its stuck closed.

Otherwise, it may have been air lock which you'll need to jack the front end of the car up so it's at the highest point and thats where you want it to be so the air bubble can get to the highest point and escape out of the system, open the radiator cap and do this when it's cold only; not when it's hot or at normal temp, and start the car up and let it idle for 10-15 mins so all the bubbles in the system can escape with the cap off and engine idling. Good Luck!

mkrieger500

Thanks! I will try that stuff and see what happens! It's -30 in my part of Minnesota today so I gotta fix this! LOL!

mkrieger500

Could it be the heater core possibly?

nus_dogg

Yup, thats a possibility. It'll suck if the heater core is the culprit. It'll cost you a ton to get it fix or you'll have to pull the dash to replace it.

SrDan

If other things check out, here's a posting that might help with diagnosing and flushing a heater core: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/new-94-accord-owner-need-help-repairs-please-og-here-2882851/ . Scroll a little down to the youtube video. the car is different but it's the same procedure for your accord, even same hose size and appearance.

poorman212

Just to add, maybe a given but want to be sure. As you are doing this make sure the heat is on high-valve open- so any air in the heater core will get out as well.

mkrieger500

Ok so I followed the bleeding info, I even tried it through the bleed port on the top of the thermostat housing and it seemed to help a little bit. I will see today. After a while, no fluid came out of the bleed port unless you rev the engine a bit, then it shoots out when you let off the gas.... what could that mean? My dad and I replaced the timing belt and water pump about 100,000 miles ago. I'm hoping the pump isn't failing.

nus_dogg

That bleed hole is there for you to crack open when the engine is off while you're adding coolant into the radiator system after doing a water pump, replacing a hose, or thermostat knowing that the coolant system is empty.

So when you are adding coolant to the radiator while it's empty with that bleed hole open, the coolant you poured in will push the air out when it reaches that bleed bolt and when it's solid coolant coming out, close the bleed bolt shut. Don't crack it open while it's running; all it will do is what you're describing while engine is running.

kidcool1977

If you replaced the timing belt and water pump that long ago in miles, your water pump timing belt service is about due.

the proper way to bleed the system is to turn heater **** to hot, open bleed bolt, pour in antifreeze into radiator. once antifreeze comes out of bleed bolt, close it. BTW this procedure is done while the car is NOT RUNNING.

Now start up the car with radiator cap off until both fans come on, this usually takes awhile so if you're impatient what you can is rev the car to 2500 rpm and hold, this will speed up the process of turning on the fans.

mkrieger500

Ok thanks guys...... sorry to be an idiot about that bleed bolt. I misread the repair manual. I am now noticing that on fan speed 3 or lower, the warmth is where it should be but on 4 and 5 it looses heat progressively from 4 to 5. Possible blower resistor?

soon2bdropped

wouldnt be a blower motor resistor problem. all that does is controls blower speed. resistor is a current limiting device.

xhondaaccord92x

might seem like a stupid question but is ur coolant level good...low coolant can make it run through the motor and not through the heater core until the pressure builds back up without the motor overheating due to the cold weather

mkrieger500

The level in the radiator is ok and the overflow tank is good too.

chikin pickle

100K on a water pump and nobody is suspecting it? I'm betting your water pump is partially eaten away due to corrosion electrolysis or whatever who knows. But that it isn't flowing the way it should at idle. Poor flow of coolant would cause your issue.

poorman212

Yes the WP and t-belt are going to need attention. However, you have heat now, just really high fans speeds it drops. Are you driving or sitting still, I ask because based upon where you live the outside temp is what....0 or less?

mkrieger500

Only when I am stopped it goes away. When I go again it picks back up. It's in the negative teens where i am at as far as temp outside. I'm thinking it is the water pump wearing out but it isn't overheating and the temp guage doesn't fluctuate.

Bligh

Your heater core could be somewhat clogged, mine was, and the commercial flush did not do the job...I replaced the heater control valve.....removed the hoses & plugged the lower outlet with a wood dowel....then filled the core with a mild solution of muratic acid(let the acid sit for a few min).
Then flushed it out with fresh water and bingo...the heater woked fine in all situtations.
The heater core can look like it's not clogged (running a garden hose threw it) it might look fine, however the majority of the core can still be clogged. Best of luck with this....
Bligh

gandalf

I watched a video from "Ericthecarguy.com" about back flushing a heater core...I've done it(not his way) but my results were GOLDEN!!!

G

kidcool1977

WOW, you're the second guy with these results and there have been other people on here with heat issues, I hope they consider that option as a solution to their issues granted they have done the basic procedure.

mkrieger500

Well I am gonna keep an eye on the car for now but I dont have a shop to work in to flush out the heater core or even replace it so I have to wait till I can be outside for more than 15 min without freezing my fingers off.... lol. Thank you all for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

kidcool1977

lol, you're in Minnesota, I recall hearing the Temp. being in the negatives BRRRRRR.

The other day I decided to tackle a distributor leak i've been having. I should of passed on the Idea since it was cold outside but I went through with the ordeal and boy was it cold, my fingers froze up, my toes were numb .

As much as I dread spring, I truly wish it were as of right now.

chikin pickle

When it's that cold your car has a lot of cooling capacity. Chances are it wouldn't overheat until it got warmer out, and then you would start seeing issues.

gandalf

With regards to your freezing fingers...Get some latex or food servers gloves about a size lager than your hand. Put the plastic gloves on before you put on your normal gloves, about 15 minutes before you go outside. your hands might feel a little sweaty inside the gloves...but that's okay. I do alot of freezer work and my hands stay nice and toasty at -10F

G

mkrieger500

Just wanted to let you guys know that the issue is solved! It was the heater core being clogged up. This was the first thing besides tires and alignment that I have not done on my own to this car. The only reason is because it is extremely cold and i dont have an air compressor. Had it flushed by a friend of mine who owns a shop he also cleaned out the iac valve for free for me which was awesome because i have been meaning to do that! I figured out that it was heater core because one of the hoses going into the core was cold and the other was extremely hot! Thanks again for the help everyone! Much appreciated!