I'm sure this question has popped up many times. I'm currently debating on whether to do a C1 or C5 swap in my 91 hatch std. I would like to get some suggestions to help me in my decision. Money is a factor, but if any of you know of any good places to get a cheap one it would help. I'm more or less looking for which one has the most bang for the buck between the two.

 

if your debating between those two options just go C5 ...

 

c5 all the way, just b-cuz of the lsd :D. but i heard the c1 has lsd as well in certain years. but i'd mean i'd prefer the c5 just for the sake of it having a beast of a vtec. i have a 90 Civic Si with b16a, and a 01 ITR with B18C5 and that **** screems!!!

 

Dude, this is not a legitimate question. If you're in the market for either one of these engines, the B18c5, hands down, no competition, lights out, game over, no arguement, zip, zero, zilch. Best bang for the buck if you're in the market for it. As far as places to get one, I would either try online(hmotorsonline.com, jdmhondaparts.com, etc) or see if you know anybody that has one that is looking to get something else. That's how I got my b16. I dont know anybody that can get a b16aSiR1 swap for 500 bucks, do you? Just keep looking; don't settle for the first place you find. Chances are, there's a better deal somewhere.

 

hey hyrbid, **** man that is a steel..
very very nice.
but yeha like hybrid says
c5 all the way, but it also depends what you want to do with it, if your going for na all the way, than c5 is good, but if you plan to go nos/fi, than c1 is better, i heard c1 has better compression for non na applications.

 

What are your plans for the car? Are you going to leave it stock, Auto-X, 1/4, High speed Hwy pulls? If you're leaving it stock go with the c5, if you're going to mod it build an LS short block with a B16 tranny.


I agree the c5 would be better for N/A, but I think it would also be better for boost. Closer gearing will keep you higher in the powerband, and higher FD equals better acceleration. Also, the higher compression equals less lag, and better off boost driveability. Sure the higher CR also means a smaller margin for error when tuning, but if you're going to turbo a c5 I hope you would be using something more than an inline and an FMU.

James



[Modified by bluboy, 5:19 PM 2/22/2003]

 

i heard that most people take the FD of the GSR, or they get brand new FD from cusco or something or that other name, i forgot.
-> well you can, i saw a turbo'd itr in oneof the threads, i'd liek to see that.

 

all depends on the money u wanna spend thats the bottom line

 

You could also get a low compression head gasket for the c5 and take the better motor of the two. there are ALWAYS shortcuts to getting what you want. ALWAYS. IMO, don't go with a c1 if you're in the market for a c5. Research how to lower your compression with the c5, and run a safe amount of boost to the motor. The ITR is the holy grail of b-series swaps. To put it in domestic car analogy; don't take the 2001 GT when you can have the 5.0


[Modified by Hybrid Invasion, 2:53 PM 2/24/2003]

 

Why would anybody take an archaic pushrod 5.0 that wheezes out a mere 225HP when they can have a much more modern 4.6 that produces 260HP? I fail to see why people still think the 5.0 is so great. Because it is not. But back to the original question. The B18C5 is hands-down a better deal than the B18C1. Sure, you can build a B18C1. But it would cost you MUCH more than the price difference between a B18C1 and B18C5 to bring a B18C1 up to B18C5 spec. As for where to get a B18C5, try passwordjdm. One of the nice things about password is that they will sell you JUST the motor. Most other palces will NOT part out a B18C5 swap.

 

If you plan to eventually replace the internals, get the C1. Otherwise, C5 - no contest.

 

hey cvc323, are you really from south holland? i thought i was one of the only guys into 88-91 hatches in the entire south holland/lansing area except my buddy marc, thats so awesome! i have a 90 standard hatch, its red w/black bumpers and black wheels. i'm actually at college in michigan, but i head back there a lot if you need help with the swap. i have quite a bit of experience with these swaps and am actually going to put a b18c5 into a 91 standard model next month up here. my buddy gabe owns http://www.ef-honda.com, check out the forum on that site, they are probably going to be making a motor run to canada in may and they will be able to pick you up a cheap motor if you want, i have lots of experience with them, totally legit, honest guys, and the site is pretty cool too, it just got up and runnin. hopefully i'll talk to you later man-adam

 

people are talking about closer gearing etc, they use hydraulic trannys dont they> so you gotta use a cable b-series tranny with your car....

 

I like the C5 but it's just too expensive for my taste so I'm piecing together a poor man's type R. I've got a YS1 LSD tranny in my garage that I'm probably gonna put a final drive in. I should be getting a B18C1 short block this weekend, and I'm trying to get a hold of a B16 or B18C5 head.

 

fi do C1
NA do C5 HOWEVER it may be cheaper to build a C1 to make more power than a C5 could and for cheaper

badass= C1 block C5 head, C5 trans. cool b/c its cheaper than a C5

 

Even under this sort of situation, the B18C1 is not necessarily the clear winner. Consider the case of building a 2.0 liter B18C. If you start with a B18C5 rather than a B18C1, you are still ahead since you already have Type-R cams, intake manifold, throttle body, better ECU, etc. All this stuff would need to be purchased for a B18C1, making it more expensive in the long run. Really, the ONLY REASON to go B18C1 over B18C5 (other than initial price or hookups) is if you are going to do a very extensive buildup involving LOTS of internal parts. For instance, if you plan to do extreme porting beyond that found on a stock ITR, better cams than stock ITR (ie JUN, Skunk2, Toda, etc.), forged pistons, stand alone management, etc., it is more cost effective to start with a B18C1. On the other hand, you might want to cosider WHEN you might do such mods. Because if you won't have the money for a year or more, then you probably would rather be driving a B18C5 in the mean time than a B18C1. This alone might make the B18C5 worth it to you.


[Modified by StorminMatt, 4:51 AM 2/26/2003]

 

With the same mods, a B18C1 is not capable of producing more power than a B18C5. Ultimately, they have about the same potential (see my previous post).


[Modified by StorminMatt, 4:50 AM 2/26/2003]