any guys get their cams adjusted and loose low rpm power?

 

Yes. You shifted the power band upward. This is usually the result of increasing overlap(+I -E).

 

did this make your quarter mile times faster? i know it would effect daily driving but for racing this would be better right? how did u make your gsr 2.0?

 

No I have my power band shifted about as low as I can get it. In theory some sacrifice to low end to get more power up top would be beneficial in the 1/4 mile because you'd spend all your time up top.

My B18c1 block just returned from Golden Eagle in CA where I had it sleeved to accept 85mm pistons.

 

how is your does your engine feel with the new 85mm pistons?ive thought of doing this once i get the money? Have u dynod it?

 

Dunno about mine. I've driven CRVs though, and a friend of mine has a CR/Vtec. They're both 84mm. This will be very similar, but rev easier, have higher compression, and have far less risk of broken sleeves. Three hours after the block got back from GE I dropped it off at the best local machine shop for inspection, honing, piston pin pressing, and valve deshrouding. I should have it back middle of next week. Should have it back together about the same time I get the 440cc injectors, so then it'll be break-in and a drive to Detroit to the Hondata tuner and dyno.

 

your honing your block still even though u got the new sleeves? are they putting your block together? i think u will prolly pull on your friends b20 cause you will climb the rpms quicker, how are those crowers by the way?

 

Yes even though. They need to be honed for your particular piston choice and setup. GE can do it there, but you have to send them your pistons or buy them from them and pay another $125. GE pushes Arias and I prefered JE. The local shop can handle this, and they'll set it up for the tighter clearances you can get away with on a NA setup. No I'll be assembling the block they're just doing the presicion work I cannot. Honing & piston pin pressing. I've been delighted with the Crower cams. I got duped into buying the 63403s rather than the 63402s I ordered by a questionable retailer, but after contacting Crower directly the fellow I spoke to assured me that the 63403s were very much streetable and more capable in every regard, and he was right. I've been on them now for about 1 1/2 years and they're really a rare great value in the performance aftermarket world.

 

what did u mean by valve-deshrouding?

 

It's the process of removing material from around the valves and opening up the combustion chambers for the new bore size. The fellow from the machine shop has advised me against this in this case and I think I'll heed his advise. So there'll only be a very light cleanup done on the head this time around. The same guy ported it last year, he's a good egg.

 

how r u going to break in your motor?

 

Same as always. Dino oil for 500 "take it easy" miles then an oil change to sythetic. I'm using the same rods & bearings so it shouldn't be as crucial a break-in as last time.

 

why didnt u get new rods or even bearing? i heard sythetic makes your engine dirty and engine builders dont like it, i heard royal purple is the **** though

 

I'm using Eagle ESP rods and ACL bearings. I like Mobil1 supersyn just fine.

 

are u using stock injectors? and ecu? do u still have the stock intake manifold?

 

Sorta. No. No.

I'm going with 42lbs(440cc) Motorsport(Bosch) injectors, not on yet, but will be prior to tuning. P28 OBDI ECU w/ Hondata S200. Skunk2 Intake Manifold.