I have started looking for wiring for my sub. I am looking at ~1600 watt D class amps. I figure an 80% efficiency would give me 2000 watts or ~150amps current draw. This is at the limit of a 4 gauge run for 13 feet. Right now my 300/4 is under my passenger seat. I am considering moving it to the trunk. This would definately push me over the limit.

So I have two options, leave the 300/4 under the seat and do a 4 gauge run just for the sub. Or run 0 gauge and move the 300/4 to the trunk. Right now it is a pain under the seat since I am still in the tweaking phase.

Regardless of 4 or 0 gauge, should I upgrade my battery terminals so that I can connect the bare wire directly in without using the stupid connectors(I don't get along with them ).

I plan on an alternator upgrade, and a cap to help out. This is my first system over 500 watts rms so I have always gotten away with 8 gauge.

 

0 Gauge!! Go big or go home! Do tegs have the same gasket under the battery as Civics? My wire fit through there, and I ran it down the driver side. Wasn't too big of a deal, its kinda hard to hide under the carpet though.

Good luck.

p.s. check out ebay, I got an entire 0 gauge kit for 50 bucks. Look for www_xtremesoundworks_com

 

tegs have the plug behind the battery. That is where my current cable is run.

If there is a lump under the carpet, the mats can cover it anyway

Should I do terminals while I am at it?

BTW, nice prices on your site.

 

If don't care about the looks of your car (like me), then the hell with terminals. Yous is probably much nicer than mine, so go for it.

 

One last question. I know that I need to add a 0 gauge ground to the negative side of the battery also. Where is the best location on the chassis to ground to, or should I just drill a hole.

 

Yes you should. Where is your amp located? I just grounded it to the inside of my trunk since my amp is located there. Just sand off where you are grounding to to get rid of the paint.

 

I am talking about the ground to the battery. The amp will be grounded in the trunk, but when you run large wire you should upgrade your batteries ground also. Some guys on termpro say upgrade engine to chassis, alternator to battery and battery ground to chassis.

 

While your in there you might as well, it can't do anything but help.

 

Just replace the current grounds using the same locations as used by the factory. I would take the time to make sure that you clean the area so that you get a good solid connection. Those grounding points should work just fine. They are short enough that you can probably get away with only a 4 ga ground...it all depends on how much amperage you are pulling.

BTW, I feel for you. I'm going to be upgrading my alternator in my Civic Si....that means new wiring to the alternator, factory fuseblock, starter and all grounds. Plus a 0/1 ga run to the trunk...not fun when you have a peak amplifier draw of 225A!!!!!


[Modified by rcurley55, 9:21 PM 2/22/2003]

 

Man, I think I'm going to need a new car. A Civic can't support my audio fetish.

 

I am going to have to buy cars by stock amperage rating

Maybe I need a used cts to put a system in, GM puts those big 135amp alts in their cars. Maybe wrx wagon.

 

I like that idea! Man, I can't wait to finish school.

 

thats where my 0 gauge is ran also!!

 

do you mean http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=32808 ??


[Modified by nemesismachine, 1:48 PM 2/25/2003]

 

Close enough. I got this one. The Audiopipe kit.