Anyone know of problems with MSD ignition setups killing igniters? I'm curious because when I decided to install my MSD setup, I also replaced the rotor and igniter so that everything would be new. Just yesterday, my car sputtered, backfired LOUDLY and shut off. I was able to restart the car immediately. It ran for about another 1/4 mile, hesitated, started backfiring (or misfiring) and shut off again. This time never to start again.

Had the car towed home (forgot to carry my spare distributor ) and went through ALL the MSD tests... everything was working. Boiled down to a bad igniter, the last thing I expected since it was only one week old. I pu the old igniter back in and everything is running.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Below are a couple of pics of the MSD install. I mounted everything securely and sealed where the wires enter the cap.

 

same thing here....

i replace 3 time the ignitor.. in 1 summer..

and the last still running... wird

 

Running MSD by chance?

 

yea it looks as though he is

 

 

You got anything done to your engine to run the Drag Kit? How many lbs are you running? Just curious if the B16 can handle the power of the Drag.


[Modified by cinq, 12:12 PM 2/12/2003]

 

OT but...how do you install an external coil?? thanks..

 

I ran an MSD 6A about 3 years ago, and I had the same problem. The car fired up, sputtered, then died. After that it wouldn't start up. I thought it was the ignitor. In desperation, I disconnected the MSD box and just ran the external coil, and what do you know, the car started right up with no problems. Give it a shot. MSD boxes do go bad from time to time, and mine went bad in only a months time. Good luck.

 

the same thing happened to me and it was that the distributer. the shaft magnatizes and igniters go. it could also be the msd.


[Modified by purplehazek4, 5:49 PM 2/12/2003]

 

I've installed 2 MSD SCI units in the past year and neither one of them has done anything other than improve idle, throttle response, gas mileage and power curve. Maybe it's because I'm using the sport-compact specific ones, but I doubt it.

 

The msd boxs is suppose to be mounted in a cool non moist place. If its mounted in a hot place then it will ruin it. genyosai the place where you mounted it, when you drive thats where all the hot air blows back I would think. Just a thing to think off.


[Modified by 90blackcrx, 1:30 PM 2/12/2003]

 

Here is a weird question but did you replace the cap at the same time? The cap is supposed to have a spring loaded contact that makes contact with the top of the rotor. If it's not there a big spark jumps across that space and will fry you electrics. I know, I bought a cap from Kragen (bad idea) that was missing this small bit and it ate my coil! Just a thought, take a look, could be your problem

 

Yeah:

Honda B-Series Swap
2.0litre Sleeved B18A Block from Import Builders
84.5mm Wiseco Forged, Skirted Pistons
Crower Rods
GSR Crank
Stock GSR Cylinder Head
JDM Red Valve Cover
Moroso Oil Pan
Moroso Oil Pump Pickup
JG VictorX Intake Manifold
Drag GenIII Turbo Kit
Garrett T3/T04E Turbocharger Upgrade
TurboXS Manual Dual Adjustable Boost Controller
Thermal R&D 3" Cat-back Turbo Exhaust
Hondata Stage 2B
GM 3-Bar MAP Sensor
AEM Fuel Rail
Vortech Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
RC Engineering 440cc Injectors
95 del Sol VTEC Radiator
GSR Y80 Tranny
SPEC 4-puck Carbon Clutch Set

Get more pics and full mods list from this directory: http://home.sc.rr.com/ntgr/images/civic/

The dyno sheet shows power made with only 10psi of boost and my small T3/T4B turbo hitting 90% duty cycle at 8300rpm. I'm putting my T3/T4E turbo back on soon as well as some 720cc injectors. I hope to get away with 15-17psi of boost soon.


[Modified by genyosai, 12:06 PM 2/13/2003]