zex cams question (new one)
so i am considering buying the zex stage one or two cam for my z6, im not gonna ask which is best or anything like that, my question is are the springs and Ti retainers really necessary for the stage 2? or is it just a way to get some more cash from the ignorant buyers? and seriously how hard is it to install a new camshaft? my biggest fear is the timing and the spacing and such. are there any special tools needed? thanks
it is not that hard. Have you changed your timing belt ever? If so, it's pretty much the same, except you gotta pull off the cam mains and retorque them. Make sure you lube up the cal generously with assembly lube. Follow instructions in your Chiltons/Helms or whatever you got.
Like I've said before, you don't HAVE to run Ti springs/retainers with the street/strip cam. The cam is good up to 7800 revs, but our stock valvetrain can only hold it's ground to about 7400. So, in order to achieve full potential from the cam and not experience valve float, you'll need to upgrade.
Does that help at all?? The easiest way to change the springs/retainer is by pulling the head, although you can do it with the head still on the block. That's why I'm waiting to drop in my new block before I swap in my spring and retainers. You'll be fine for now with just the stage 2 though. But, get a cam gear so you can adjust your powerband to your liking.
BTW, it took me about an hour to install the cam and timing belt and such. Make sure everything torqued, lined up, and you adjust your valve lash.
Edit- if you have any q's, AIM me at IllmaticDC or PM me on here
[Modified by Emerica, 11:33 AM 1/29/2003]
Like I've said before, you don't HAVE to run Ti springs/retainers with the street/strip cam. The cam is good up to 7800 revs, but our stock valvetrain can only hold it's ground to about 7400. So, in order to achieve full potential from the cam and not experience valve float, you'll need to upgrade.
Does that help at all?? The easiest way to change the springs/retainer is by pulling the head, although you can do it with the head still on the block. That's why I'm waiting to drop in my new block before I swap in my spring and retainers. You'll be fine for now with just the stage 2 though. But, get a cam gear so you can adjust your powerband to your liking.
BTW, it took me about an hour to install the cam and timing belt and such. Make sure everything torqued, lined up, and you adjust your valve lash.
Edit- if you have any q's, AIM me at IllmaticDC or PM me on here
[Modified by Emerica, 11:33 AM 1/29/2003]
just follow those instructions. You'll probabl have trouble pulling off the crank pulley, and lining up your cam timing.
Make sure you torque down the cam gear on the new cam and not just reef on it. It may crack that way.
Might as well replace the water pump if it hasn't been replaced. Let me know if there's any questions, but your manual should tell you everything you need to know.
Make sure you torque down the cam gear on the new cam and not just reef on it. It may crack that way.
Might as well replace the water pump if it hasn't been replaced. Let me know if there's any questions, but your manual should tell you everything you need to know.
thanks man, the cam is ordered and hopefully be here on sunday. looking over the haynes i think it will be a do-able job in one day. plus if need be i can get my friends dad to help as he is pretty familiar with engines, to see the vette drag car he built go onto my website. it runs 8s up at this elevation(5,500ft at the track).
you have email
[Modified by tek_civic, 6:18 PM 1/29/2003]
[Modified by tek_civic, 6:26 PM 1/29/2003]
you have email

[Modified by tek_civic, 6:18 PM 1/29/2003]
[Modified by tek_civic, 6:26 PM 1/29/2003]
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