when trying to stage at launch rpms (5K) with the clutch fully depressed car rolls foward. Checked and the clutch is not slipping or anything, what do you think is the problem, this is really anoying! thanks

 

bump.

 

cable or hydro clutch?

 

hydro

 

Does this happen at stoplights or just at the local track?


[Modified by 91civic, 11:50 AM 1/29/2003]

 

Every where, but i just tried adjusting the clutchmaster from under the dash and the pedal feels way better so ill go to the track and see if it still rolls, thanks

 

im having this same problem i have a clutchnet stage 2 everytime i am at a full stop wit the clutch fully depressed and when i bring up my rpm's to launch the car rolls foward i cant get a good launch at the track becuase of this

How can i get rid of this

 

problem solved! Try adjusting the lock nut on the clutchmaster cylinder piston shaft under the dash. You can make the shaft longer or shorter mine was not long enough going into the master cylinder causing the clutch not to fully disengage.

 

cool ill try it 2morrow

 

What year civic do you have? What clutch brand/stage do you have and what flywheel are you running? Also, what tranny and clutch slave are you using? Im curious because ive got a 92dx w/dx clutch master, and 98 itr tranny, 98 itr clutch slave, and clutchmasters stage III clutch and clutchmasters lightened flywheel. Ive always been skeptical that my clutch was not fully disengaging. So i thought i would see how similar your setup was compared to mine. To see if adjusting my pushrod would help me out any. THanks for your help.

Oh yeah, do you have any pics of your car, cuz im tryin to remember what car is yours, i go out to bithlo quite often, and i think ive seen you out there.

ERIK

 

How did you determine how much longer to make it? How do you know what to adjust it to?

 

what up Eric I know you from Eric in parts at Acura if your the same person. My civic is midori green EK chassis. I also have been dealing with this problem for a while but I dont track it all the time, which is when I would get the problem with launching at high rpm. I have a few friends that work for Honda and they explained how the clutchmaster is not really self adjusting as the Helms calls it. If you swap your motor with a new clutch in it and dont adjust the pedal then the engagement will be different especially with the firmness of a aftermarket pressure plate like ACT,ClutchMasters ect.... I Just gave the pedal the free play the Helms called for 1-10mm+ 12-21mm free play and set the pedal height to specs then adjusted the push rod for the master cylinder out a couple of turns and then checked the free play of the pedal again to make sure it was still okay. You need some free play or you wear the clutch out sooner. Now it engages good and I get better shifts at the shifter ( not notchy) and the car doesnt roll when stagging. Hope this all helps!

 

There is no certain spec to adjust the rod for the clutch master but you just need to make sure and set the pedal height to factory and make sure you've got free play ( I like about a .25 inch) then you can see where the clutch is engaging (how close to the floor) on a test drive. Then go and loosen the lock nut on the clutch master push rod under the dash and adjust the rod in (shorter) or out (longer) the longer the push rod the higher the pedal engagement the shorter the lower the engagement. Let me know if it this works for you too!

 

great, thanks alot for the help. Actually, im probably not the eric that you know at acura, but i work with him. Come find me if u are ever at the shop. Ask for the Erik in service.
Anyways, Ill have to check it out and go through the procedure that you explained to me. I just went outside to check when my clutch engages and it is about an inch to an inch and a half off the floor. So im thinking that it would be worthwhile performance and wear wise to adjust it properly within "spec". My main problem is that ive got a notchy gearbox, and i seem to have problems with all of my gears grinding when i try to speedshift. I recently rebuilt the tranny with new 3rd,4th, 5th internals, and the problem still exists. Ive also replaced all of my hydraulic components within the past year too. Ive got good pedal pressure, im just thinking that im not fully disengaging my clutch when i floor the pedal, hence the synchros/clutch assembly not slowing down as fast as it should be. Im hoping that if i lengthen the rod to raise my engagement point up an inch or 2 that ill be able to shift a little quicker without the grinds and notchy feel. Thanks again!!! Ill let ya know how it works out. It may be a couple days, cuz im recovering from a hernia surgery.

ERIK

 

I met you once when I was thinking of building a b20 myself I stoped by to ask you some ?s about your set up it was a while ago Eric in parts introduced me to you in the shop at Acura, remember? I think you also met my friend from Mazda as he was thinking of doing a b20/vtec also his name was David at Fairbanks Mazda. I said whats up to you at the track a couple of times and asked how your car was running.

 

gotcha goctcha, your car has the spoon/rota wheels in black on it?

 

Yep