Hey all, I have a few questions.

First of all let me say that I work at a shop and we've done probably 10-15 first-gen B16A and a B18C1 swap into the 1988-1991 CR-X/Civic and 1990-1993 Integras, so we' are pretty familiar with the swap.

BUT!

I always order the J1/S1 tranny because of the better gearing and I know for a fact that 1990-1993 Integra axles have always worked out perfectly for us.

Here's the problem, and then my question:

We're doing a first-gen swap with a Y1 LSD tranny and the driver's side axle seems to be binding/catching. We've tried both the intermediate shaft that came with the motor and a 1990-1993 Integra intermediate shaft and still the driver side axle binds.

I know I've *heard* that a custom axle is sometimes necessary for the Y1 tranny, so my question is:

What parts need to be added together to make a good driver's side axle for a Y1 tranny with a first-gen B16A?

I've heard some crap like some 1986-1989 Integra parts with a cetain shaft, etc.

Who knows for sure?

 

http://www.hasport.com/News/Articles...rt%20Axles.htm

hope that helps ya.

i would bet that the frame is bent or something. ask the customer if its ever been hit

oh yeah. im running a Y1 LSD and used all teg stuff (90-93 teg int.shaft and axles)


[Modified by johnzm, 3:15 PM 1/28/2003]

 

I'm running a y1 LSD with the SiR axles and int. shaft. I used the oem honda axles at first, but the drivers side fell apart and now I have DSS.com stage 2 axles. They are a tight fit, they binded at first because the car was too low. The OEM never binded though. Did you remove the dust seal?

 

I'll double check the dust seal thing.

i tols the tech doing the job to first swap out the Sir int. sahft and use the 1990-1993 int. shaft and also to remove the dust seals.

He swapped out the int. shaft, but I'm not sure about the dust seals. i'll check after lunch.

Thanks for the link john, and thanks for the reply ricodemus.

 

friend changed from a j1 to a y1 lsd and had no problems with axle binding....u might be one of the rare exceptions to the axle rules(as mentioned on hasport site)

u may just have to get a custom SIR axle built

 

i think the dust seal thing would be a good short term fix. I've seen the same binding thing happen too.

 

I use an 86-89 on my drivers side, but only because i have a y1 intermediate shaft which is slightly longer. If your using a 90-91 teg shaft, then the trans can have nothing to do with it. Must be either dust shields or tweaked frame.

 

Update:

Both dust shields are pulled off and it still binds using the 90-93 Teg int. shaft.

I've ordered a 1989 Teg axle and will have the tech swap inner joints and see if that fixes the problem.

The car is actually a 1991 Integra, and if the frame was tweaked then it would have had an axle binding when it was driven in with the stock motor. I asked in here because the Integra forum is more 1994-up stuff.

Only other option to me is that the diff in the tranny is ruined and is locking whenever the wheel is turned even slightly.

BUT!

If it was the diff trying to lock then it *should* do it when the wheel is straight and also when the car is rolling even out of gear.

I hope this turns into a learning experience for anyone who has a similiar problem with their EF or DA style chassis with first-gen B16A swap.

 

There are several people on this board with the same problem (guttedEF, myself, and a few others).

I have Y1 LSD in my 91 civic. I am using 90-93 teg intermediate shaft and brand new 90-93 teg axles with the dust seals removed. My car only makes the noise when I turn the wheel slightly and it seems to dissipate in the warmer months when my tranny is warmed up.

I have been told by Hasport that some Y1 LSD are clutch type and that you must add an LSD additive to the tranny fluid. GM (yes, general motors) LSD additive has been suggested. I bought some but have yet to try it cuz my car is under two feet of snow). I know that when I got my tranny it had red tranny fluid in it.

 

Well funny that you should say GM LSD oil, because before I even read this post we put that in the Y1 and low and behold the clanking is GONE!

We looked through the diff hole and determined that it looks exactly like another KAAZ unit we have here at the shop, so we added the GM diff oil and it's perfect - no problems at all, and no ratcheting in turns.

Problem solved.

Thanks to all who posted helpful stuff!