car wont roll freely after swap
Just did a b16a in a ed9... car doesnt seem to roll freely when trying to reverse or drive in garage... What could be causing this strain on the car?? It feels like the brakes are locked up, but shouldnt be because we didnt do anything with them. But that is what it feels like when trying to reverse, car gets "sucked down" and feels like it is towing a house. Anybody have a similar problem?? I am thinking it is the axles...maybe the wrong ones, but i did buy the 90-93 teg axles, but when i called back to check the part number for what side, the number seemed different??? So...........any suggestions or ideas. Thanks.
help a brother out. I cant figure it out for the *** of me either. the passenger side axle appears to be slightly longer than the other, im not sure if it is causing some binding inside the tranny housing. the car just wont move. everything else works fine... just no roll.
Did you remove the hub ring, and the dust seal on the axle? Both need to be removed or else it will bind just like you stated. Ryan
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Did you remove the hub ring, and the dust seal on the axle? Both need to be removed or else it will bind just like you stated
That sounds like your problem.-Todd
I cant find anything on the hub ring or dust shield that you mentioned. I looked in the service manual w/ vtec supplement but could not find the mentioned parts... Can u maybe include a pic, or a more descriptive local of these parts... Need to be driving by noon. THanks for help.
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There is a pressed in ring that has a hat section on the inside of the hub. It must be removed in order to aviod an interference fit at the axle hub interface. Unless the axle is removed from the hub it is hard to see and impossible to remove. There is also a rubber lip dust seal on the axles that also needs to be removed. I had the same dragging feeling and that was my problem. If you do not remove them they will wear away putting metal shaving near an unprotected (If the seals/ring wear through)wheel bearing. Take the time and pul the axles and have a look it will be obvious where they have been rubbing if you drove it any distance.
[Modified by tpr, 8:31 PM 1/28/2003]
[Modified by tpr, 8:31 PM 1/28/2003]
It's number 2 in this pic. I'm suprised your car rolls at all! With those in, you can fully lock the car in place like you were on the e-brake.
http://hasport.com/News/Articles/Hasport%20Axles.htm
try the instructions in this link, hope it helps
try the instructions in this link, hope it helps
OK great, thank you everyboyd for your responses... that seems like it could be my problem. Also i had the wrong axles in my car..... you gotta love guys at carquest getting sloppy around lunchtime. Gave me the wrong DAMN axles!! So i got the right ones, now i gotta wait till the wkend and go try to remove those seals mentioned, because it still binded when we put them on. when we tried "driving it" on jackstands, the whole front end of the car wobbled horribly. Do u think that is why ?
I had the right axles in my car and when my car was jacked up I could not spin the wheels by hand. The dust shields were removed and it still did it. I came up with a solution though, so if that don't fix it pm me if you want to know what I did.
Did you remove the hub ring, and the dust seal on the axle? Both need to be removed or else it will bind just like you stated
That sounds like your problem.
-Todd
That sounds like your problem.-Todd
basically, Sick Hatchem needs to chill out. the car will work fine, the axles are new, and they bolted up fine. removed the dust sheild on driver side. the pass side didnt have one on it. the car will drive, hes just not really sure about it.
new axle cv's are the equivelent to a new baseball glove. take a lil to get em working right. breakin in period. I know, for alot of the swaps, somethings have a standard, like hasport mounts, but with things like axles, there are some variations. Something that we all know.
If he would just put 10 miles on the thing, it would be working fine. but he doubts me, like im some sort of fucktard. Yes axles that were in the first time didnt work, and bolted up fine, but the thing was sized up, like the first post says. if the car rolled and made noise, somethign was wrong. I wouldn't let him leave to school like that. he seems to think i would have. its kinda trial and error. hybrids can be shifty at times. I have alot of time into this thing. it will be fine. yeah he'll prolly reply to this saying im rushing him and yadda yadda ya, but im trying to help him out. He needs his car for school, so im trying to get some progress on the thing, but now, as far as im concerned, he can ride the university's bus. this car has no benefit to me, Still i have 2 projects going on for myself, but im there, in his cold *** garage, wrenchin away to help a brotha out. He is a great friend of mine, yet he doubts me so. even tho im the guy that introduced VTEC to him. he was that "i want a WS-6" kinda guy before my ITR came around our town. Im the guy around here that makes the guy at the parts counter feel like moron when he tells me what i need.
On that Note: Sick Hatchem, Do It Up, it's all you.
[Modified by 2k1_ITR_0736, 9:08 PM 1/28/2003]
[Modified by 2k1_ITR_0736, 9:11 PM 1/28/2003]
new axle cv's are the equivelent to a new baseball glove. take a lil to get em working right. breakin in period. I know, for alot of the swaps, somethings have a standard, like hasport mounts, but with things like axles, there are some variations. Something that we all know.
If he would just put 10 miles on the thing, it would be working fine. but he doubts me, like im some sort of fucktard. Yes axles that were in the first time didnt work, and bolted up fine, but the thing was sized up, like the first post says. if the car rolled and made noise, somethign was wrong. I wouldn't let him leave to school like that. he seems to think i would have. its kinda trial and error. hybrids can be shifty at times. I have alot of time into this thing. it will be fine. yeah he'll prolly reply to this saying im rushing him and yadda yadda ya, but im trying to help him out. He needs his car for school, so im trying to get some progress on the thing, but now, as far as im concerned, he can ride the university's bus. this car has no benefit to me, Still i have 2 projects going on for myself, but im there, in his cold *** garage, wrenchin away to help a brotha out. He is a great friend of mine, yet he doubts me so. even tho im the guy that introduced VTEC to him. he was that "i want a WS-6" kinda guy before my ITR came around our town. Im the guy around here that makes the guy at the parts counter feel like moron when he tells me what i need.
On that Note: Sick Hatchem, Do It Up, it's all you.
[Modified by 2k1_ITR_0736, 9:08 PM 1/28/2003]
[Modified by 2k1_ITR_0736, 9:11 PM 1/28/2003]
i had to use 89' teg axle on my drivers side, 90 and up were binding
Did you remove the hub ring, and the dust seal on the axle? Both need to be removed or else it will bind just like you stated. Ryan
Has anybody made 90-93 axles work with y1?
There is another post about this same subject. I have never heard it working correctly. Either take back the axles, or get the teg int shaft. Ryan
basically, Sick Hatchem needs to chill out. the car will work fine, the axles are new, and they bolted up fine. removed the dust sheild on driver side. the pass side didnt have one on it. the car will drive, hes just not really sure about it.
new axle cv's are the equivelent to a new baseball glove. take a lil to get em working right. breakin in period. I know, for alot of the swaps, somethings have a standard, like hasport mounts, but with things like axles, there are some variations. Something that we all know.
If he would just put 10 miles on the thing, it would be working fine. but he doubts me, like im some sort of fucktard. Yes axles that were in the first time didnt work, and bolted up fine, but the thing was sized up, like the first post says. if the car rolled and made noise, somethign was wrong. I wouldn't let him leave to school like that. he seems to think i would have. its kinda trial and error. hybrids can be shifty at times. I have alot of time into this thing. it will be fine. yeah he'll prolly reply to this saying im rushing him and yadda yadda ya, but im trying to help him out. He needs his car for school, so im trying to get some progress on the thing, but now, as far as im concerned, he can ride the university's bus. this car has no benefit to me, Still i have 2 projects going on for myself, but im there, in his cold *** garage, wrenchin away to help a brotha out. He is a great friend of mine, yet he doubts me so. even tho im the guy that introduced VTEC to him. he was that "i want a WS-6" kinda guy before my ITR came around our town. Im the guy around here that makes the guy at the parts counter feel like moron when he tells me what i need.
On that Note: Sick Hatchem, Do It Up, it's all you.
[Modified by 2k1_ITR_0736, 9:08 PM 1/28/2003]
[Modified by 2k1_ITR_0736, 9:11 PM 1/28/2003]
new axle cv's are the equivelent to a new baseball glove. take a lil to get em working right. breakin in period. I know, for alot of the swaps, somethings have a standard, like hasport mounts, but with things like axles, there are some variations. Something that we all know.
If he would just put 10 miles on the thing, it would be working fine. but he doubts me, like im some sort of fucktard. Yes axles that were in the first time didnt work, and bolted up fine, but the thing was sized up, like the first post says. if the car rolled and made noise, somethign was wrong. I wouldn't let him leave to school like that. he seems to think i would have. its kinda trial and error. hybrids can be shifty at times. I have alot of time into this thing. it will be fine. yeah he'll prolly reply to this saying im rushing him and yadda yadda ya, but im trying to help him out. He needs his car for school, so im trying to get some progress on the thing, but now, as far as im concerned, he can ride the university's bus. this car has no benefit to me, Still i have 2 projects going on for myself, but im there, in his cold *** garage, wrenchin away to help a brotha out. He is a great friend of mine, yet he doubts me so. even tho im the guy that introduced VTEC to him. he was that "i want a WS-6" kinda guy before my ITR came around our town. Im the guy around here that makes the guy at the parts counter feel like moron when he tells me what i need.
On that Note: Sick Hatchem, Do It Up, it's all you.
[Modified by 2k1_ITR_0736, 9:08 PM 1/28/2003]
[Modified by 2k1_ITR_0736, 9:11 PM 1/28/2003]
[Modified by 90blackcrx, 2:12 PM 1/29/2003]
Which Y1 intermediate shaft are you using? the JDM Xsi one? if so you will need hybrid axles. I have built a set before, its very easy. All the directions are on hasports site.
If you have the USDM Intermediate shafts the whole axle situation is very easy. You can simply use 90-93 teg axles (nonabs) with the dust shield removed.
I am currently using a 96 gsr intermedate shaft with 95 gsr axles, left/rh. Without the dust seals.. Works perfectly.
Jeff
If you have the USDM Intermediate shafts the whole axle situation is very easy. You can simply use 90-93 teg axles (nonabs) with the dust shield removed.
I am currently using a 96 gsr intermedate shaft with 95 gsr axles, left/rh. Without the dust seals.. Works perfectly.
Jeff
Now is this a problem with just B series swaps?
I left the dust sheilds in with my ZC swap, and it's been a year. NO problems....
I left the dust sheilds in with my ZC swap, and it's been a year. NO problems....
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