blah for some reason my cars rpm's get crazy bouncy after 4K and my car start's to buck forward when i punch it after 4K w/ the bouncy tach.. after 20min of driving the tach goes back to normal and dont bounce anymore and it wont buck like it was doing... but this problem reoccures after i turn the car off and dont turn it on for like an hour.. then if i get back in it ti will dot it all over again

92accord Ex f22a6


i was thinking maybe it's the spark plugs?? maybe i am getting a weak shot? i dunno

also i have dual runners that open up (butterfly) after 4K do u think they could be alil clogged up and make my car buck like that?? but it only bucks when the tach is bouncing all over the place!!

 

Waddup. Make sure you check wires, plugs, distro and cap to see if they are all good. Otherwise make sure that the connections on your ICM or ignitor are secure. If they are not then you tach will bounce and you will miss.. Remember the same thing was happening to the lude engine when i first did the swap??...

Good luck

 

distributor

 

I am assuming that there is no code being thrown? I was thinking that the oil pressure was really low and not engaging high cam even though the car was thinking so, but that would have thrown a code

 

Be sure to check your coil.

 

He's got an F22A6, not an F22B1.

 

sorry, reading through this pretty quickly on my lunch break

 

sup jason, word bro i am sure it's that i am gonna check it out ..


i found this on the G2 site for teg's very freking helpful ... thank you everyone for your help. i am gonna take it apart and clean it up n' check it all out

Fix Bouncing Tachometer.

Your tach bounces around, you get a misfire, and you get a code 15. Ok, the reason this is happening is because you are not getting a GOOD connection on your igniter. Those connections have to be TIGHT! Also, dielectric grease will help a TON! This is how you fix the problem.

Remove your distributor cap. If you still have the dist shield in place under the cap, then you will have to remove the rotor, and the shield. If your shield is already gone, you do not need to remove the rotor. When looking down onto the distributor, you will see the coil, the rotor, and some wires leading to a small, brown thing. This is the igniter. There will be 4 connections. 1 on the side, and 3 on top. Honda uses spade connectors to make these connections to the igniter. Remove, and work on only ONE CONNECTOR AT A TIME. Take each connector, and with it removed from the igniter, place it in the needle-nose pliers and crimp down a little tighter on the spade connector. Then put a dab of dielectric grease inside the spade connector. Then put the connector back on the igniter. The connection should be very tight. Do this with all the connections to the igniter. Replace the rotor (if you removed it) and then the cap. Then, under the fuse panel under the hood, remove the ECU and Hazard fuses for about 60 seconds. Replace both, and restart the car WITHOUT touching the gas. Let it run for 60 seconds without ANY accessories on. Then after 60 seconds, turn ALL the accessories on and let it run for 60 seconds. Turn the car off, restart it, and go have fun.

I was having this very same problem with my 92 GSR. After trial and error I found this to be the problem. I fixed it the first time without dielectric grease. The problem came back a few days later. I then redid the procedure and used dielectric grease. It has now been one month, no problems. Also, I did pick up a power gain as well.

Eric
gsrrcr92@aol.com