I'm currently running a HF radiator (so i think, it doesn't spant he entire length of the radiator support bracket) and would like to be able to prevent any future "damn this engine is running hot" occurances this year.

I've thought about the Fluidyne, since it can be had for around $350 shipped.

Anyone have any other ideas? If you have data backing your results, that'd be MUCH appreciated (data, meaning, an aftermarket water temp gauge showing lower temps).

 

A lot of track CRX's run an OEM replacement for the Si radiator. The main difference is that the replacements are all metal, no plastic. If you have $350, I don't think you'll find someone who isn't happy with an all aluminum race radiator, but still...$350 I guess it's all relative.

 

just get an Si oem replacement although i wouldn't count on it being metal tanks...it should be plastic.....cuz it saves them money, fluidyne is great but too costly for a metal tub, imho.

 

go to like 1800radiators dot com or something....csf all aluminum oem size for like 115. works fine....i wouldnt mind a 92-95 one though....for the more room...

 

Yes, don't assume it's all metal. However, explicitely "all metal" radiators aren't too hard to find and they are only a little more money. Should be between $100-150 if you don't wait for any deals.

 

After helping a friend install one of these in his CRX, I was so impressed (and mine had over 100,000 miles on it) that I bought one myself.

The big fattie.

Forget about using this radiator along with the A/C condensor fan and a header.........Don't fit...... Wanna buy a used A/C condensor fan?

High Performance All-Metal (Brass/Copper) Radiator
for the 88-91 Honda Civic/CRX
4Cyl. 1.5/1.6L M/T & A/T
Civic/CRX & Hatchback (DX/SI)
& Sedan/Coupe (DX, LX, EX)

This radiator has rugged, all metal construction (brass and copper with a black finish), no plastic tanks like the factory OEM radiator has.
The radiator core is twice as thick as the factory radiator, (1 5/16 instead of 11/16), providing twice the cooling capacity.
This radiator also has twice the number of cooling tube rows as the factory radiator, (2 instead of 1), providing twice the flow.
This radiator is an excellent choice for high revving, high performance motors including those equipped with Turbo Charged, Super Charged or Nitros Oxide engines.
This is a direct replacement radiator, no modifications required.
Made By: CSF, Inc.
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Price: $ 122.00

http://www.absoluteradiator.com/cgi-...c23+1042893085



[Modified by 7PSI CRX, 7:36 AM 1/18/2003]

 

go with a 91 automatic teg rad its duel core and will drop in with no mods(oh except you will have to modify the upper rad hose as upper teg rad fitting is bigger then the civ) but it will drop right into the support brackets.

[Modified by 89civicdx, 8:36 AM 1/18/2003]


[Modified by 89civicdx, 9:24 AM 1/18/2003]

 

Well, i have modified rad hoses anyways since i have a B16...


Thanks for the input everyone!

 

I have a fluidyne, I like it. I think I paid 370 shipped 2 day air.

 

does anybody know if the manual teg radiator is dual core or only the automatic one.


i want the teg radiator because the hoses are the right diameter for the b16

 

If you're going to go aluminium, then consider a PWR. It's heavier gauge than a fluidyne, costs less, and has more cooling rows in it. Earl, and Nineseccrx sell them https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=293692 . I would assume that if you do go this route, you will need to modify your lower mounts to accept the Si pattern, as well as get a drivers side Si mount. If you go with one of the Koyo (iz like Toyo) factory replacement units, they should have the mounts on the bottom for both the Si/DX and HF, so you will just need an upper mount. Metal end tanks aren't all that great or big of a deal either. They would initially seem stronger, but Honda went with plastic originally for a reason. The plastic end tanks tend to dissipate heat at a greater rate than the Metal units. As well as not being able to corrode like the metal units, in an attempt to maintain the bond between the core and endtanks longer. I' currently running Dexcool mixed 50/50 (Currently honda/acura is using this on all 02 and up apps, and recommends it for all earlier cars), and the temp is slightly higher than with the regular fluid, but it can be mixed 60/40 or even 70/30, so I'll probably do that next time I have it apart. Also it would never hurt to throw in a little redline water wetter.


[Modified by CRX-RX, 11:31 PM 1/19/2003]


[Modified by CRX-RX, 11:35 PM 1/19/2003]