im wanting to do a LS/vtec right now im scared of wasting my money i've heard lots of horror stories about these combos only last 3,000 miles so any info well be gladly appreciated thanx in advance if you have a LS/vtec or CR-vtec could you give me your recipe in making this happen i drive my car everyday so thts one thing i have to have is dependability.. it seems B16 head is required is it? what bout gsr head?


[Modified by tegrakid, 6:39 PM 1/8/2003]

 

shotpeened LS rods
ITR .20 over pistions
machined b18c block girdle
b16a head
skunk 2 valve springs and retainers
skunk 2 stage 1 cams
vtec solenoid
various oil lines and fittings
chiped ecu with a 8500 rev limit
vfac

 

-block linup "pins"
-GSR water & oil pump
-Cam gears (skunk2)


here's a link to the dowel pins i was talkiong about... made by Geoff
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=324342

 

thanx ttt for these guys some more replys pleez im gettin good info and answers so keep it comin my confidence is boosting up bout this

 

B18b
B16a head
Crower rods
arias 11.5/1 pistons
type-r manifold
p/p head with portflow/itr valvetrain
skunk2 stages 3
hondata p28
etc..
let you know in a couple weeks

 

I am looking to doing the same thing.
the b16 head is probably the best way to go.
My friend triplet (ttt) just go the ls/vtec on his hatch,
and that **** pulls...and pulls...and pulls.
email this guy i know and ask him about what he has,
he works at a shop and the prices are pretty good.
his email: LUCKYp73psi@aol.com

good luck

 

Plug the oil feed, drill the head to allow for the dowel pins, run the SS line for the oil. Use an LS headgasket, and your all set. If you want it to be fast, you have to do the standard engine mods as well.

BTW i have a B20vtec with ITR intake manifold, ITR cams, AEM gears, DC 4-1 JDM header, FPR w/ guage, ITR exhaust. Its quite fast, fun to drive, and reliable. Get it built right the first time, or don't get it done at all. BTW i did mine myself with the help of a friend, and have done around 10-15 customers ls-vtecs. None of which have ever had a problem. I have over 20K on mine since the conversion. One customer had his done over 3 years ago with many more miles than that and no problems.

Find a reputable shop, and your good to go.

 

I also recommend a GSR head over B16 due to the .2 higher compression. Its cheap hp. Also ported GSR heads out perform ported ITR/B16 heads.

 

build it right.....w/ all new parts.....seals, bearings, gaskets, the whole 9 yards. If you want a reliable build, do it right! Dont get cheap......I wanted to do lsvtec, but i figured i would dump too much money into it cause i want a good strong reliable motor. anyways, good luck!

 

with the money it takes to build a strong reliable ls/vtec, you could have a modded b18c1, which i would prefer anyday over the ls/vtec.

 

me too

 

ck out http://www.c-speedracing.com
this will help, peace!

 

i disagree with this comment. they do have higher compression yes, but a ported and polished itr/b16 head will flow better than a p72 head .....see the charts.
read first:
http://www.alaniztechnologies.com/techarticles.html
then second:
http://www.alaniztechnologies.com/marcharticle.html

 

Its nice looking at charts and all, however you must make the comparisons equal. Put a Skunk2 manifold on the GSR head then compare em. I'm not going to get in a huge debate over this, however if you look at 90% of the fastest all motor cars, they run GSR heads. Every person i know who races at the track uses it. They all prefer the GSR head as well. If you have an ITR head already, of course its not worth the money to swap. However if given the choice, i'd use the GSR head with equal components. I believe importreview.com has graphs giving the same results i have described. Use what you like, i'll go with what i know works.

 

Honestly for the price of a properly built ls/vtec you could get more power with a budget FI setup.
Just as an estimate, for the franken setup you'll need:
vtec head: 500
Unless you really trust your buyer, replace the valve springs: 200
high comp pistons: 300
gsr block girdle, bolts, oil pickup, oil pan: 200
oil pump: 100
head gasket: 50-70
water pump: 120-150
new belts: 90
fittings: 30
machine work: 150-200
bearings: 100-150
That's around 2k. You could skimp out in some areas and I'm probably forgetting some stuff, but for 2k you can put together a respectable low budget FI setup.

I have a built ls/vtec-t with 13k mi. Hope this helps. Reliability will not be an issue. I don't why people keep bringing it up. I know I know, r/s, r/s. Yeah yeah. You think gsr's would be safe without block girdles? [rhetorically speaking].