91 crx w/ b16 pr3 ecu. It's been running fine all weekend. I relocated my battery, but the wiring didn't change...still runs thru the fuse box under the hood. I checked all the fuses (engine bay and under steering wheel), and none have blown. Are there any other fuses? When I went to start it, I heard a faint and brief fizz from the ecu area (carpet is still pulled up). The battery cable is fine. No wires showing signs of burns, and I removed and opened the ecu and everything looks ok visually. Also, when I turn the key, I can hear a click from the fuel pump, but it doesn't pressurize at all, just a click. I'm at a loss as to what happened and why. Any tips would be really appreciated. Thanks.

 

get a circuit tester and get to work.

 

do you mean to test the ecu circuit boards, or to check the wiring harness? at this point, I believe the ecu is no good. It is very similar to when you try to start the car without the ecu plugged in...no dash lights or anything.
I wouldn't know how to test the ecu circuits either.

 

Just a thought for next time

Did you put a fuse inline with the powercable from the battery? When you relocate a battery to the rear you should always put a fuse I would say maybe no further then 8inches from the battery.

Did you check the big blade type fuses under the hood?

 

yes, the 60 amp fuse under the hood is good, as are all others (I checked twice). There isn't an inline fuse between the battery and the starter/fuse box, so the first fuse is the 60 amp. Of course, that is also the first place it connects to anything other than the starter itself. I know another fuse would be good for safety, but I don't think it would have made any difference in this situation in light of the still good 60 amp. I could very well be wrong. The dealer says they can't say anything about the ecu without looking at the entire car, of which I would like to avoid the towing and labor costs. Any other suggestions?

 

it was the ground from battery to the body. So, using welding cable instead of the stock piece, I got the largest copper fitting from Pep Boys and wirebrushed a large area and secured the copper fitting with a large bolt and lock washer. End of problems.

 

good to hear that everythings fixed. did you not clean off the paint to attach the ground the first time or something??

 

i had/still have the same problem...could it be any other ground instead of just the battery ground? the previous owner relocated the battery to the back and i think he did a **** poor job on it...theres wires everywhere in the engine bay...when you'd start your car, the engine light would stay on, right? sometimes it didnt "click" right? thats what happens with mine...i just sit there and wait and wait and wait and pray and wait some more...then it starts...any other ideas beside the ground? i've changed the ground like 3 times...

 

glad to hear it works now.

put a fuse near the battery...the fuse at the fuse box protects the car, the fuse near the battery(if its inside the car) protects you.

 

Twice the dash lights would came on normally, but everything would die I tried the starter. It'd stay dead until I reset the ecu. If you're sure your ground is good, then all you should have for the positve is one cable (with an inline fuse above 120 amps) that runs up near the starter. It should basically Tee right there, to the starter and to the fuse box ontop of the passenger shock tower, to the front-most screw. I can't imagine why it would be anything different. Welding cable is great because it's really flexible and good for the low voltage application. I got the 120 amp fuse minimum by looking up the starter output : 1400 watts and dividing by 12 volts. The length of cable will use up some more amps, but I don't know how much.

 

grounds will get you every time. no one thinks of how important they are! power has to return somehow. glad you fixed it.