Anyone have a site with how to replace an axel?
I'm pretty sure I know how to do it but I want to be sure. I flew off the road and killed my CV Boot and Front Tie Bar.
if we lived close to eachother id help you or do it for you. but im in phoenix.
after you remove the wheel, you will need a socket that will remove the castle nut which is in the exact center of the rotor.(air tools, and a lift would be awesome)
then take a 17mm socket, and a 17mm wrench and remove the nut an bolt that holds the strut fork to the "a" arm.
then there is a nut that faces down ward, it has a cotter pin in it. cut the pin with dykes and loosen the nut ( i think its a 17, or a 19mm) but do not remove completley. take a ball peen hammer, and with the flat side hit the "a" arm with the hammer untill the ball joint seperates from the "a" arm (dont worry you wont break anything). you can use a fork tool, but you will ruin the bushing, and have to buy a new one. then remove the ball joint nut
push up on the rotor until the ball joint seperates from the "a" arm. the axle should also come out of the rotor.
another person holding the rotor and nuckle out of the way would be a big help but not necessary.
take a pry bar, and with the flat edge wedge it between the inner axle and the axle socket. its very easy to pop it out.
then just slide it out
i wish i had illustrations for you if you want to call long distance my number is 480-984-7480
after you remove the wheel, you will need a socket that will remove the castle nut which is in the exact center of the rotor.(air tools, and a lift would be awesome)
then take a 17mm socket, and a 17mm wrench and remove the nut an bolt that holds the strut fork to the "a" arm.
then there is a nut that faces down ward, it has a cotter pin in it. cut the pin with dykes and loosen the nut ( i think its a 17, or a 19mm) but do not remove completley. take a ball peen hammer, and with the flat side hit the "a" arm with the hammer untill the ball joint seperates from the "a" arm (dont worry you wont break anything). you can use a fork tool, but you will ruin the bushing, and have to buy a new one. then remove the ball joint nut
push up on the rotor until the ball joint seperates from the "a" arm. the axle should also come out of the rotor.
another person holding the rotor and nuckle out of the way would be a big help but not necessary.
take a pry bar, and with the flat edge wedge it between the inner axle and the axle socket. its very easy to pop it out.
then just slide it out
i wish i had illustrations for you if you want to call long distance my number is 480-984-7480
Oh really?? I saw some garage show on Speed Channel and they had a CRX and replaced the axels. Maybe they just drained it because it was old, not because they had to. Good to know.
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From: A place where stupidity runs rampant aka NorCal
You do have to drain it beforehand. If you dont, it will leak out when you pull the axle out. You wont lose all the fluid, mabye half of it.
-Todd
-Todd
You do have to drain it beforehand. If you dont, it will leak out when you pull the axle out. You wont lose all the fluid, mabye half of it.
you act like if you pull the axle out it will pour out like you were draining the oil. not so. not so much as a drop will come out.
the only thing holding the axle in the socket, is a little snap ring at the end of the inner axle spline
[Modified by Huggy Bear, 5:41 PM 12/28/2002]
the best way to get out an axle hands down is to take the wheel off, undo the damper fork bolt, take out the cotter pin from under the damper fork, unscrew the ball joint nut just a bit and right above it on the damper fork, hit it really hard with a sledge hammer, don't hit any threads on the bolt though, and it will release the axle from the wheel, and no ball joints will be raped by pickle forks
thats why i said hit the "a" arm with the hammer, because the pickle fork will damage the ball joint bushing if its wore out. i also leave the ball joint bolt loosened and on as well just in case i miss the arm, and hit the ball joint bolt threads, then ur screwed, and have get a new one.
i do this task every day at work, and i dont see why shops charge so much, this task takes me like 45 mins total time at the slowest. 15 mins if its just a straight swap. and it bills like 1.5-2 hours labor.
i do this task every day at work, and i dont see why shops charge so much, this task takes me like 45 mins total time at the slowest. 15 mins if its just a straight swap. and it bills like 1.5-2 hours labor.
Dont know about anyone else but when I forgot to drain the tranny fluid when I was swaping motors that **** poured out all over the garge when I took out the axle, so dont say "not a drop will come out" because it will
Maybe if you have the car jacked up on one side only will the oil not drain out.
I also agree with leaving the ball joint alone, and undoing the suspensions':
control arm pivot,
the radius rod,
and the sway bar instead.
As explained here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=366319&page=2
[Modified by 7PSI CRX, 7:27 AM 12/29/2002]
I also agree with leaving the ball joint alone, and undoing the suspensions':
control arm pivot,
the radius rod,
and the sway bar instead.
As explained here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=366319&page=2
[Modified by 7PSI CRX, 7:27 AM 12/29/2002]
Whats the best way to get it out of the tranny? I heard a pickle fork works good.
Just stick a screw driver in between the tranny and the axle and it will just pop right out
Just stick a screw driver in between the tranny and the axle and it will just pop right out
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