Hi. I have been reading posts on this forum for a while, seems like a pretty knowledgeable group. Just got my 96 GSR a month ago. I want to start to mod it. It needs to stay reliable. It has 118k and wil be seeing about 500 to 600 miles per week. My plans are to keep things low key. I plan on doing a test pipe and headers, but don't want to put on a cat back for a couple reasons. It will be too loud, and I don't want that coffee can look. I know there are a few styles with near stock looking tips, but it will still be too loud. I understand that to get the full bebefit I should do a cat back. I figure that I will be replacing the most restrictive areas, and the muffler and resonator won't mess flow up tremendously. Plus I figure it will sound better without being ricey. Does anyone have any input?

Everyone seems to say you need an intake as well. I have seen claims of 7 to 10 hp. Is it really that much?

How easy is it to install a header in a GSR? Do you have to lift the block? It looks pretty easily accesible.

Just a few questions. I have only tuned turbo cars where every big mod seems to get you 40hp. Thanks for your help.

Oh, are there any reputible cheap perf parts online stores for hondas?

 

Maybe you could look into running some 2.25 piping to a factory muffler. That might keep the noise down some.

 

Welcome to Honda-Tech!

I understand your concerns with not wanting to be ricey. Most of us here thrive on our distaste for rice.

If you are wanting for your engine to breathe efficiently, there are some basics you need to understand.

Air-in is paramount. Without breathing, your engine cannot perform to it's fullest. Before you consider doing a test pipe, you MUST replace the OEM intake system. A CAI or Icebox would suit your needs just fine. Look at companies like AEM, Iceman, Injen, or Comptech. (All of these are relatively easy, fun installs)

A header is the next important step for good breathing. The header is where the exhaust exits into the catalytic converter then into the exhaust pipe/muffler. Dependent on what your long-term goals are would define what size header to get. Most aftermarket headers will be 2.25-2.5" at the collector. 2.25" is best if you're going to do mostly bolt-on items. 2.5" is best for bolt ons and internal engine work/ Forced Induction. I have a DC 4-2-1 which is tuned for midrange/high end power. The 4-1 headers are tuned for high end power, while losing some low end Headers are not difficult installs, but it's always good to have someone with you for an extra set of hands. Don't break any of the bolts that connect the manifold to the engine block! Soak the bolts with WD-40 the night before you do this install!

I say NO! to the test pipe. Come on, save the environment. There are some good aftermarket catalytic converters that have good exhaust flow.

If you don't want a ricey aftermarket exhaust, why don't you look at the ITR exhaust? It has OEM looks, and great sound/flow at WOT.

By the way, you're lucky if you get 10whp from all of these mods combined. The way you get real power from your engine is if you boost it with a turbo or supercharger. That's a whole different game.

Hope this helps!


[Modified by 5-SpeedFreak, 11:05 PM 12/19/2002]

 

http://www.evasivemotorsports.com

 

why are you getting a testpipe if you dont want it to be loud..imo my exhaust isnt really loud unless your at wot ...i have a full catback apex n1...i put a hi flow cat on it and that was a diff story..it was really loud. run some bigger piping and a stock muffler

 

$30 for a testpipe or 400 - $600 for a catback. The cat is the most restrictive part.

 

youre testpipe will be really ricey loud just for daily driving....doesnt sound so ricy at the track..lol...but you wanted a lowkey car...so like everyone else said...get high flow cat and itr exhaust or aftermarket exhaust with a silencer...good luck with your mods!