skunk2 vs Jun vs type-s camshafts?
what experiences have you guys had with these, and what would you suggest for my 93 JDM H22a? I saw that one person broke a skunk2 camshaft, but I wanted some opinions. Dyno's would be nice too 
Thanks!

Thanks!
jun 3's idle well and make some nice power. Although I dont have any dynos or anything, Im pretty sure this is the order in which they make the most power: type s, skunk 2, jun 3.
I have never seen any "real" information at all on how JUN cams perform on the h22a. Crower and Type-S camshafts are the only dyno's ive ever seen and even those are very few. I think a new set of Type-S camshafts isn't worth the money, I'd go with Skunk2 or Crower, they could only be better.
[Modified by Mike95lude, 10:55 AM 12/18/2002]
[Modified by Mike95lude, 10:55 AM 12/18/2002]
I have the Type-S cams in my JDM h22a and I got some good gains. The Skunk 2 and jun's are definitly more aggressive and will prolly net more gains. I went with the Type-S cams because I picked up a set for $200, also I had planned to boost in the future so I didn't want to buy really aggressive cams that'd would not work with a bossted setup. For serious HP/TQ gains go with the Jun's or Skunks, for good gains without having to shell out a ton of $ try the type-S's. I think I gained 12-15 HP/TQ with the cams I don't remmeber, If I can find the old dyno plot I'll post it.
i agree i wouldnt spend money on type s cams i would get crower.. but remember if you get stage 2 or higher on skunk, jun or crower you need to upgrade your valvetrain (stiffer springs and retainers)
now these are my experiance with the following cams
skunk 2 stage 2: this was a b18 2 sets a cams bent the valves because they where squared off but they should have this fixed by now according to a guy from svp who works for skunk.. in a b16 good gains no problems even though i think its the same cam but different batch ( i wouldnt worry about the square off and i would recomend them)
JUN stage 3: fully built 1st gen b16, good idle little rough on warm up hard to find a good place for vtec engagement ended up selling for a custom grind of crower (the serious gains where with the crower mentioned next)
crower stage 3: these are my favorite the idle is bairly rough like the jun mainly at start up .... the car acts like its in vtec the whole time and it pulls crazy hard. This was a regrind by dpr but i have 2 buddies with crowers and i never hear a complaint
type s: put a set in for a friend never dyno'd i would only get them if you dont want to upgrade your valvetrain and the price is no more then 300
i personally have a set of crowers on order for my h22
[Modified by ViZ, 4:47 PM 12/18/2002]
now these are my experiance with the following cams
skunk 2 stage 2: this was a b18 2 sets a cams bent the valves because they where squared off but they should have this fixed by now according to a guy from svp who works for skunk.. in a b16 good gains no problems even though i think its the same cam but different batch ( i wouldnt worry about the square off and i would recomend them)
JUN stage 3: fully built 1st gen b16, good idle little rough on warm up hard to find a good place for vtec engagement ended up selling for a custom grind of crower (the serious gains where with the crower mentioned next)
crower stage 3: these are my favorite the idle is bairly rough like the jun mainly at start up .... the car acts like its in vtec the whole time and it pulls crazy hard. This was a regrind by dpr but i have 2 buddies with crowers and i never hear a complaint
type s: put a set in for a friend never dyno'd i would only get them if you dont want to upgrade your valvetrain and the price is no more then 300
i personally have a set of crowers on order for my h22
[Modified by ViZ, 4:47 PM 12/18/2002]
thanks for the info!
I am planning on putting in new valves, springs and retainers at the same time. The thing that I am most afraid of is breaking something because of the camshaft. After these mods, I will not have much money if something brakes.
I am planning on putting in new valves, springs and retainers at the same time. The thing that I am most afraid of is breaking something because of the camshaft. After these mods, I will not have much money if something brakes.
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well if you have done any other internals to lower compression you would want to clay your motor so that you know you have clearence between the piston and teh valves.. but if its a stock motor you should be fine
I have a JDM h22a with 10.6:1... no internals were done.
this is my dyno with i/h/e and vafc
red=before, Blue=after
this is my dyno with i/h/e and vafc
red=before, Blue=after
I agree with you 100% I actually got 28hp and 28 tq max gain... that is well worth the 300 bux I paid for it
tuning only took 40 min as you can see by the times
tuning only took 40 min as you can see by the times
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