cheating
im really poor. and so far as i can tell n2o is the biggest bang for my buck. if i do go for it ive heard good things about the zex dry kit. as in its good for newbs like me. anyway, i didnt know what forum to put this in, and when i searched i of course saw the same arguments half say -"its great and fun" the other half "youll blow your engine"
so what do you accord guys think(ive read through all the forums and you guys seem to be the most dedicatred and knowledgeable)....is it worth it? anyone have expirience with it? besides new plugs, what else should i replace. also i read a lot of people sayign that if its used "responsibly" its not harmful. besides not using it off the track, what defines "respoinsibly". thanks for all the help.
so what do you accord guys think(ive read through all the forums and you guys seem to be the most dedicatred and knowledgeable)....is it worth it? anyone have expirience with it? besides new plugs, what else should i replace. also i read a lot of people sayign that if its used "responsibly" its not harmful. besides not using it off the track, what defines "respoinsibly". thanks for all the help.
ok, i don't have nitrous on my car yet (planning on adding zex dry kit because of ease of install) but i know engines and i'll tell ya this about it. First off nitrous doesn't harm the engine. The harm to the engine is done by having a lean mixture. This can be caused by running nitrous, but it's not the nitrous doing the damage, it's the lack of fuel. That shouldn't be a problem with the zex dry kit because as i know it's suppose to compensate for that when you are on the throttle, i'm not exactly sure how, i'm not an expert on those kits. Other than changing the plugs there shouldn't be any thing you need to do if you are only going to run a 55hp shot. Going up to a 65 or 75hp shot you are suppose to retard the timing, the instructions tell you how many degrees. Also, might be a wise idea to run premium fuel.
sounds good thanks for thge help. one more querstion. dry kit youre supposed to install far from the throttle body as possible right, to allow it to cool the air since theres not as much risk?
edit: i read heard this and wondered if it was true.
[Modified by 5thgenaccordian, 5:19 AM 12/17/2002]
edit: i read heard this and wondered if it was true.
[Modified by 5thgenaccordian, 5:19 AM 12/17/2002]
NO..drykit simply means that the n2o injector/sprayer is on the intake
(easy install, less hp)
wet kit you need to get those fuel injector with n2o sprayer build in and
all that good expensive stuff.
(NX or Nos wet kit is more expensive but good hp gain)
(easy install, less hp)
wet kit you need to get those fuel injector with n2o sprayer build in and
all that good expensive stuff.
(NX or Nos wet kit is more expensive but good hp gain)
A dry system, injects only nitrous into the intake and additional fuel is supplemented by tricking the stock fuel system to increase pressure. A wet system, taps into the fuel line and inject fuel and nitrous at the same time. a single wet fogger, which places a single fogger in the intake pipe that injects both nitrous and fuel into the throttle body. direct port is where the manifold is plumbed to add an individual nozzle into each runner. the plate system, which places a flat jetting plate somewhere between the manifold and the head.
I personally have nx single fogger wet kit. i went with a wet kit because fuel is mixed with nitrous and injected into the throttle body to ensure that all cylinders are equal and that one cylinder does not lean out, with a dry kit, sometimes the first cylinder has problems leaning out because theres a more concentrated amount of nitrous in one cylinder than anothers. also nx wet kit rate their shots to the wheels and zex rates them to the crank.
[Modified by raceACCORDingly, 9:20 AM 12/17/2002]
I personally have nx single fogger wet kit. i went with a wet kit because fuel is mixed with nitrous and injected into the throttle body to ensure that all cylinders are equal and that one cylinder does not lean out, with a dry kit, sometimes the first cylinder has problems leaning out because theres a more concentrated amount of nitrous in one cylinder than anothers. also nx wet kit rate their shots to the wheels and zex rates them to the crank.
[Modified by raceACCORDingly, 9:20 AM 12/17/2002]
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I had heard this same thing several times but then someone on here posted a dyno from their stock accord running the zex 55 shot. It dyno'd at almost exactly 55 hp greater than stock. Wasup with that??
Nitrous is not cheaper. Maybe if you only plan on using it once in a while it is.
But after a while (depending how often you spray), the cost of refilling the bottle over and over will equal the cost of a turbo kit.
But after a while (depending how often you spray), the cost of refilling the bottle over and over will equal the cost of a turbo kit.
Zex Nitrous raises the fuel pressure to compensate for the nitrous. Brian said his car actually ran rich and he had to lean it out for more power. I believe Zex recommends that the nitrous nozzle be no further than 8 inches from the throttle body. Also they say you NEED colder plug (like the Zex plugs), and premium fuel. If you're going to do the 65 shot, you must retard your timing 2 degrees and for a 75 shot retard 4 degrees. Assuming your engine isn't a pile of crap, you will have no problems and have lots of fun.
Like Nick said, nitrous does get expensive. And once you use it, it's like a drug, you want to use it more and more. But it's so much damn fun...
Like Nick said, nitrous does get expensive. And once you use it, it's like a drug, you want to use it more and more. But it's so much damn fun...
Nitrous is not cheaper. Maybe if you only plan on using it once in a while it is.
But after a while (depending how often you spray), the cost of refilling the bottle over and over will equal the cost of a turbo kit.
But after a while (depending how often you spray), the cost of refilling the bottle over and over will equal the cost of a turbo kit.
yes you will get spray happy
The nitrous down the road from where I work went up to $3.75/lb from $3.50/lb. I have two 10lb tanks @ $37.50 a piece = $75 bucks a refill...
tisk..tisk..tisk.., you guys just dont have a good enough hook-up!
i get mine for $3/lb. having two friends with garages and refill stations helps!
personally, i would save up for TuBro though. power is there when you need it.
[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 9:57 AM 12/17/2002]
i get mine for $3/lb. having two friends with garages and refill stations helps!
personally, i would save up for TuBro though. power is there when you need it.
[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 9:57 AM 12/17/2002]
tisk..tisk..tisk.., you guys just dont have a good enough hook-up!
i get mine for $3/lb. having two friends with garages and refill stations helps!
personally, i would save up for TuBro though. power is there when you need it.
[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 9:57 AM 12/17/2002]
i get mine for $3/lb. having two friends with garages and refill stations helps!
personally, i would save up for TuBro though. power is there when you need it.
[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 9:57 AM 12/17/2002]
i have a zex kit. its ok. i guess. for my feelings see my sig.
i have a zex kit. its ok. i guess. for my feelings see my sig.
boost > n2o
ok, ok how about this:
boost > n2o + TuBro
boost > n2o
ok, ok how about this:
boost > n2o + TuBro
boost < N20 + t3rb0.
ya, i gotta get the hook up here. it's 4.50/lb here which really sucks. With that i was thinking the cost and the turbo would be more cost efficient, just more upfront costs. The only problem is that upfront cost on an f22a4 is very high because there are no kits
. Plus with 164k miles on my engine i do'nt want to spend the moeny getting the custom stuff built for a turbo and then in 30k miles my car die and i swap it out for an h22. The nitrous comes out real easy and can go onto the nicer h22 after my engine dies. YAY
. Plus with 164k miles on my engine i do'nt want to spend the moeny getting the custom stuff built for a turbo and then in 30k miles my car die and i swap it out for an h22. The nitrous comes out real easy and can go onto the nicer h22 after my engine dies. YAY
2 questions, which one is safer and more reliable out of the wet and dry kits, and is it bad to spray on an auto?
[Modified by 95 GaNgStA AcCoRd, 1:31 PM 12/17/2002]
[Modified by 95 GaNgStA AcCoRd, 1:31 PM 12/17/2002]
with the pre-setup systems out now, dry is a safe way to do it, but if your go to a wet system, the extra fuel ensures that safety. is is actually better to use it on an auto, due to the fact that you dont have to let off the throttle to shift, although you dont really have to on a manual either. the only problem with the auto's is you HAVE to keep your fluid changed and i reccomend a tranny cooler, i know this from experience.
[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 4:41 PM 12/17/2002]
[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 4:41 PM 12/17/2002]
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