!!!!!Please Help Me FIX my CIVIC!!!!!
the car is a 91 civic lx it was dying so i put a new fuel filter on it and that wasn't the problem so i but a new distributor cap and rotor on cause they were bad and it ran fine for 2 miles then died and it has greak spark and alot of fuel comes to the TB hose, what is my next move guys!!!!! i broke the little plastic rotor shield is that a problem? i can't see fuel mist when i crank it over with a plug out either..... ANY IDEAS? I NEED HELP!!! i just typed like 500 words in this thing a second ago about this whole ordeal but it erased them said i had to many capitols!!!
[Modified by mariopaul, 6:16 PM 12/16/2002]
[Modified by mariopaul, 6:16 PM 12/16/2002]
take the cap back off and check to see if the rotor is ok. i've heard of the screw coming out. also are you throwing any codes. (is the check engine light on)
How was it dying? What are the symptoms?
I don't have the plastic rotor shield in my distributor anymore... makes no difference.
All 4 plugs are sparking just fine? Make sure!
Crank/cam belt timing is correct?
If you pull the plugs and srank it a few times you should be able to smell the gas in the cylinders. If not, I would think you have a clogged injector since you say you have no fuel problem up to the TB hose. (I assume you are 100% sure that fuel system -ie main relay- is working just fine).
I don't have the plastic rotor shield in my distributor anymore... makes no difference.
All 4 plugs are sparking just fine? Make sure!
Crank/cam belt timing is correct?
If you pull the plugs and srank it a few times you should be able to smell the gas in the cylinders. If not, I would think you have a clogged injector since you say you have no fuel problem up to the TB hose. (I assume you are 100% sure that fuel system -ie main relay- is working just fine).
i only took 1 plug to check but it was sparking fine, and it was running fine so i am assuming the timing belt is fine, it wouldn't spark if the belt was bad would it?
well the setscrew in the rotor had stripped so i replace the cap ans rotor the rotor was so worn it was actualy wobblying on the shaft and destroyed itself and the old cap,
the dying was only at low rpms after it was hot, and if it left it sit and run if i hit the gas it would die, but i would try to accelerate on the freeway it would chug like bad fuel or water, but it has a fresh tank and some heet in it, after i changed the parts it ran great for 2 miles then died. how do i get to the injector?
well the setscrew in the rotor had stripped so i replace the cap ans rotor the rotor was so worn it was actualy wobblying on the shaft and destroyed itself and the old cap,
the dying was only at low rpms after it was hot, and if it left it sit and run if i hit the gas it would die, but i would try to accelerate on the freeway it would chug like bad fuel or water, but it has a fresh tank and some heet in it, after i changed the parts it ran great for 2 miles then died. how do i get to the injector?
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When my hatch kept dying, it ended up being the igniter. There was a recall on it way back, like in '93. Don't know if that's the prob., but you might want to check.
When my hatch kept dying, it ended up being the igniter. There was a recall on it way back, like in '93. Don't know if that's the prob., but you might want to check.
He isn't getting the fuel smell from the cylinders when he cranks without plugs. My guess is fuel related.
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