Best H22a valves
Alright let's get some opinions on valves.
What brand and why. I'd also rather not spend more than I need to. I'm N/A (abotu 220-240whp) for now, so I'm thinking my criteria is:
1. Lighter valves
2. Provides better intake velocity
Is that all I should be thinking of? I already have titanium retainers, dual springs and crower stage 3 cams
[Modified by satan_srv, 2:37 PM 12/9/2002]
What brand and why. I'd also rather not spend more than I need to. I'm N/A (abotu 220-240whp) for now, so I'm thinking my criteria is:
1. Lighter valves
2. Provides better intake velocity
Is that all I should be thinking of? I already have titanium retainers, dual springs and crower stage 3 cams
[Modified by satan_srv, 2:37 PM 12/9/2002]
First thing I would do is talk to John at KMS. You'll be glad you did. I've seen that man's shop and all his equipment... he can do some serious stuff.
When I chose who to build MY motor for the Gumball, he's the first, and only, person I called.
He did a Prelude for a good friend of mine... it was the only other 13 second, full interior, N/A on street tires Prelude in the Southeast that we know of. And it was mild in comparison to mine.
click the link in the sig, or call 1-770-652-3538
Also, headwork is PARAMOUNT. He can do that too, and he has the flowbench to give you flowcharts if you want them.
When I chose who to build MY motor for the Gumball, he's the first, and only, person I called.
He did a Prelude for a good friend of mine... it was the only other 13 second, full interior, N/A on street tires Prelude in the Southeast that we know of. And it was mild in comparison to mine.
click the link in the sig, or call 1-770-652-3538
Also, headwork is PARAMOUNT. He can do that too, and he has the flowbench to give you flowcharts if you want them.
To be honest, alot of the pro guys still use Stock valves. Spoon even recommends it themselves (that's what they use in their cars). Factory vavles will bend, not brake, as most aftermarket will do if something goes wrong. Just something to think about
Originally the head was ported and polished and I believe the IM was paort matched as well to the crower head, just using stock valves. I will talk to my engine builder tomorrow and see if they flow benched it the first time.
To be honest, alot of the pro guys still use Stock valves. Spoon even recommends it themselves (that's what they use in their cars). Factory vavles will bend, not brake, as most aftermarket will do if something goes wrong. Just something to think about
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You should talk to Dan from DPR. He's built two 2.2's of mine both with upgraded valves, no complaints at all, I can't say enough about him. He's knows his ish and has been building motors since we where in dipeys.
Flow bench this and flow bench that, its all about torque.
dpr-racing.com
Flow bench this and flow bench that, its all about torque.
dpr-racing.com
http://www.alaniztechnologies.com/bhseriesparts.html
I imagine the same applies to H22 valves. This is from the guy who builds heads for the quickest all motor Honda on the planet by the way.
I imagine the same applies to H22 valves. This is from the guy who builds heads for the quickest all motor Honda on the planet by the way.
one thing you have to remember.. honda makes valves that are suppose to last for a long while. Sure they aren't really designed for high HP applications, but if something goes wrong, the valve bends to protect the engine. After all, honda put a buttload of R&D $'s into them
Aftermarket valves are more for high HP applications, where stripping down, checking, and rebuilding the engine(s) is don'e routenly. So after a few runs, you check everything out... notice something odd, replace it. Of course if you miss a problem, instead of bending the valves tend to snap, really messing tons of stuff up...
Just info for more thinking!
Aftermarket valves are more for high HP applications, where stripping down, checking, and rebuilding the engine(s) is don'e routenly. So after a few runs, you check everything out... notice something odd, replace it. Of course if you miss a problem, instead of bending the valves tend to snap, really messing tons of stuff up...
Just info for more thinking!
Ferrera valves are good! Skunk 2 suck!
i however went w/full ferria .5mm oversized valvetrain. what kind of valve job are you going to get?
I guess you haven't seen my other posts, I'll just explain it again.
When I got my swap I got the Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams, valves, springs, and retainers too. 2 weeks later my exhaust cam broke. Down for 2 weeks. One week later, my hydraulic tensioner broke, along with one of my springs, and all of my valves were mushrooming. The Skunk 2 valves are very loud, and don't seem reliable. This not only happened to me, but another friend of mine who has the same set-up. I switched to ferrera valves, and I'm ahppy. He spent another $2000 trying to get everything working at Honda. I would go with the best, and ferrera is the best, so I've heard even before I got them!
When I got my swap I got the Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams, valves, springs, and retainers too. 2 weeks later my exhaust cam broke. Down for 2 weeks. One week later, my hydraulic tensioner broke, along with one of my springs, and all of my valves were mushrooming. The Skunk 2 valves are very loud, and don't seem reliable. This not only happened to me, but another friend of mine who has the same set-up. I switched to ferrera valves, and I'm ahppy. He spent another $2000 trying to get everything working at Honda. I would go with the best, and ferrera is the best, so I've heard even before I got them!
First thing I would do is talk to John at KMS. You'll be glad you did. I've seen that man's shop and all his equipment... he can do some serious stuff.
When I chose who to build MY motor for the Gumball, he's the first, and only, person I called.
And it was mild in comparison to mine.
When I chose who to build MY motor for the Gumball, he's the first, and only, person I called.
And it was mild in comparison to mine.
Unless you are using some form of forced induction, keep your stock valves. They work very well. Stainless exhaust valves are a good idea for FI motors. The best aftermarket valves only flow around 2-3% better than stock anyway.
damn, that sucks. glad i went w/the best to begin with. i was just wondering if it was worth the extra money, but now i know it was. ill be putting my engine back in really soon.
did you replace you auto tenisor w/the manuel one? what part of fl you from?
did you replace you auto tenisor w/the manuel one? what part of fl you from?
Unless you are using some form of forced induction, keep your stock valves. They work very well. Stainless exhaust valves are a good idea for FI motors. The best aftermarket valves only flow around 2-3% better than stock anyway.
When I got my swap I got the Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams, valves, springs, and retainers too. 2 weeks later my exhaust cam broke. Down for 2 weeks. One week later, my hydraulic tensioner broke, along with one of my springs, and all of my valves were mushrooming. The Skunk 2 valves are very loud, and don't seem reliable.
anybody have any complaints about Ferrea vavles, how's the flow on them, my valvetrain is "crower stage 3 drag n/a cams, with crower dual vavle springs and crower Titanium retainers, also have h23 tensioner assembly, with a ported head... new valve job, but wondering if it be a good idea for ferrea instead of the stock valves, looking for lighter tougher valves,,, no nos or turbo straight na... looking for valve that flow and won't break... idea's.. and how much are Ferrea valves (stainless steel ones) can you get them in a high compression design... cause i want 12.0 and I have a worked chamber (rounded factory flaws) and lost .5cc in each chamber .. fully polished... so i need higher compression valves, can't mill head because i have stage 3's... ideas ?
Skunk2 does make a high compression valve(the valve is falt on the bottom instead of indented)that would probably work out good. They raise compression about .4-.6 . They would probably do the trick.
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