HotWheelz

H22a Normally aspirated built motor, full top end and bottom end... only thing left is valves... Stage 3 cams, full tit valve train, portflow head... all left is valves...

based on perfomance and reliability please based on exp.. select one if also post comments why.... any specific testing ...

add some if not on the list as well ..

thanx guys i know i can trust you ...

CR is 11.00... no mill on head... might use skunk2.. jut to increase head compression .. is there also another valves that do that...

people like to say ferrea is the best... thanx guys !!

much much much appreciated..

have a great day!

-H

earl

I don't see how anyone without a flow bench could give you a real answer to this question. I have a flow bench and I can't.

HotWheelz

so theoritically speaking what is the differnce between the ferrea 20 and 22 then....

alot of people stick with stock valves... i may run nos.. so it`s a garanty.. i don`t anything for granted... i got a prodrive gear for my h22a because people say they break.. they said h22a stock rods can`t take the abuse in rpms so i got Crower Pro-Billet rods.. if those suckers break then i give up... the motor is completely worked... top to bottom, even the valve cover is polished for christ sake haahah....

last thing to worry about is the valves and camgears.. eveyrthing else is settled...

so any comments are welcomed and not waisted.. thanx guys !!

Seriously!

HEAD

I say Ferrea but I say this only from a fundemental standpoint that they look like a better design than alot of the other stuff out there, and I run them in all of my heads including the bullish cars and leone's head. I'm actually going to be writing a story for UrbanRacer.com about this subject with flow charts and all in the next 2 months or so. I wish I had flow numbers for you, but I figured I'd just give my opinion for now.

HotWheelz

so by putting Aftermarket valves for normally aspirated combinations can you see more flow and potentially more hp... are we talking like 1-2hp increase (Somewheres up there) or not really or possibly not... can better flowing valves actually reduce flow depending on the port work.....

i might use nos later on or maybe simply remove the cams and swap the floating pistons and i'll have a fully built turbo motor so down the road the possiblitiies are endless...

thanx guys!

earl

If aftermarket is lighter, you will rev quicker. If larger, you could flow more. They won't melt as fast as stock could on a high hp situation.

HotWheelz

well .. my head is a crower stage 3 head, with crower dual valve springs (eibach) and tit ret... portflow head. (stock Vavle size) no mill on it worked head...

so i`m wondering about the vavle`s so far only stock...

anything is better.. my cr is only 11.0 (type-S pistons 0.25) so i can use a thinner head gasket to get another .2 or .3 but that`s tops... i`m not milling the head because i may go turbo later not sure.. stock sleave but pro-billet rods, and prodrivegears... so my motor is pretty good i think.. (never ran) so i want something for more flow and obvously something that won`t drop a valve

so reliability is number one but performance is also another chunk...

could i see a 1% even 2% flow increase at low or even high lift from a SS valve like the Ferrea or not even....

i`m curious to why people use them if they don`t ....

etc..

any bit helps..

tk

This is going to sound weird but in a perfect world we would have all different valves from different companies and be able to try all of them in each different head and match the best flowing valves for that particular port.

Since there core shifts and no one casting is exactly the same and each porting shops techniques are different ,there is no way to give you 100% accurate answer.

Sometimes a Ferrea flows better than a Crower and vice versa and so on...

The porters job is to make the ports flow the best he can with what he's got to work with.

93LSivic

Basically all you have to do is just find out who has the smallest diameter stems. The valve cut will have a lot to do with it also. But it takes any one person to think he knows how to port a head to destroy it.....basically its a science. I know my Ferrea's are slightly fluted where they run in the port....this will enhance flow characteristics.

tk

Its got alot to do with the shape of the tulip ,the way the tulip blends into the 45 degree angle for the seat,not only how slim the stem is.

I will agree thats its a science though.

HotWheelz

OK .. a Portflow head (not a mickey mouse one)... so we know they do excellent work... so i could therotically go with a ferrea superflow and expect good performance..

what is this 20 and 22 angle from ferrea... is that the valve angle or something... same price.. one is a better aloy, the other super.. so one must flow more but the other is stronger.. does that make any sense.....

tk

Theoretically yes but in no way does this mean that a Crower or any other valve won't flow the same or better.
Its a 50/50 deal so "do you feel lucky"(a little Clint Eastwood )

HEAD

I would go with whatever Tom at Port Flow tells you to put in it. since he ported it

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

the Endyns or the ferrea that Tom uses are both fine, make sure you give him your cams to check v-to-v contact with those big cams especially when going oversized, there is only so much adj you can go with cam gear.

greg

earl

As far as I know, Honda valves only come in one stem size. If you found a smaller stem size, you would have to change valve guides. Most head guys say that Honda heads are the last head they want to put new guides into. Very tough to do properly.

HotWheelz

Yeah guides are extremly hard on honda heads... every machine shop tells me that... for the portflow valves they have different kinds.... obviously this is normally aspirated so flow is important not like a turbo car where the air is forced in of course....

Endyn ??? with all the crap floating around how can they be trusted... or it's all bull.....

do ferrea have high compression designed valves similar to skunk2 or not really....

the motor will be clayed with the rockers locked for Vtec... my springs are crower (Eibach edition) they say they are good up to 10,000 before any valve float.. would this be acurate if a clay the motor to know proper timing gear clearances from a advance and retarted point of view, or will the springs float regardless and less than 10,000 Rpm.....

my motor should make most of it's power around 8000-8200 but that's with the intake manifold... once it's fully together and breaked in. i may attempt throttle body's so the powerband will be shifted higher so tha'ts why i'm curious on the vavle springs combo i'm running with these vavles...

is there a known combo that works better for the intake and exaust valves....

meaning 20 degree on intake and 22 degree on exaust or ????

or are these tricks of the trade i'm sure the're are hardcore motor heads that would know .. i will pay for this information if i must.. i know everybody has a price i just want a good motor and strong realiable also...


from good sources STage 3's by crower offer a -2 / +2 cam gear adjustment without any problems (non milled of course)

-H

b19coupe

ITR intake valves have a narrower stem just at the valve head, the valve stem in the guide is the same size as other B16/B18c valves. And changing valve guides is a pain in the butt, gotta heat the head very carefully, so as not to warp it.

Rob Dizzle

REV makes valves that are flat faced for b series. that is what i am running

i would check with 2 different people that the valve stem lengths will work properly with your head and cams. just to make sure