Fun Little Hypothetical Situation.......
Given that one currently owns a b18a, and would like to perhaps place the b18a crank, along with crower/JE combo for the LS, into a b18c1 block, would this be a
(it'll work) or a
(lay off the crack)?
Thanky one and all.
(it'll work) or a
(lay off the crack)?Thanky one and all.
Yea you'll have to notch the block and most likely cap the oil squirter... Everything will move straight over and you don't have to run an external oil feed... All you really end up with a GSR that has a weaker crank that has an additional 1.8mm of stroke.... Just get new bearings and you'll be set... If you have the GSR crank in the block I would just keep it with new rods and the same pistons... latez
isn't the rod:stroke ratio what makes the b18c better than the b18a/b if all things else are equal?
why would the LS parts be better than the B18C1 parts?
why would the LS parts be better than the B18C1 parts?
Yea it does drop the R/S... That's why i recommend that he just stick with the GSR crank if he still had it... I didn't say that the LS parts were better.... I even said that the GSR crank is weaker... but yea don't get me wrong he just asked if something would work and I said yes it would... Cuz it will and i've seen this done before... Latez
every LS turbo dyno i've seen has more torque than an equally-boosted GSR.
i was just curious, not sure if i'm gonna do it yet or not.
what do you mean by notch the block?
i was just curious, not sure if i'm gonna do it yet or not.
what do you mean by notch the block?
every LS turbo dyno i've seen has more torque than an equally-boosted GSR.
good observation, closer to 1 the R/S ratio is, the higher the torque and the less it will rev...
you want the reliability of the B18C, stroked for more torque.
can it be done? has it been done? is it worth it?
t..
its a common thing to do to get that little bit extra displacement. notching the block is performed by grinding the block to clear the rods as they spin. when you stroke the motor not only do the pistons and rods move the extra distance up and down but in every direction in the cranks rotation. without notching the block as the rods come from bdc toward the top the sides of the rods will contact the block. that material needs to be removed to allow the rotating mass to rotate. I have also heard the the oil squirters need to be removed and plugged so they aren't in the way but i'm not sure. I think a lot of the top FI racers use the ls crank to increase displacement.
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oil squirters are superfluous with forged pistons (JE?)...
only really required to cool the stock cast pistons (as far as i know...)
t..
only really required to cool the stock cast pistons (as far as i know...)
t..
Check this out.... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=353889
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