Ok this is a really good question...
I have a 91 Honda CRX putting in a B16A OBD0 engine that has been upgraded to OBD1 P28 ecu with hondata etc....
I have a donor connectors from obd0 ecu and obd1 harness.
So far wired up the adapter harness no real problems.....

Hasports wiring off there web site lists
-Alternator FR signal on OBD0 as B14 to OBD1 D9
and alternator control as blank

Is this a error or for some reason

If you look up the wiring OBD0
B5 is alternaotr FR signal
B14 is alternator control
OBD1
D9 is alternator FR signal
A16 is alternator control

Only thing is that the 94 Honda Civic OBD1 P28 has ELD electronic Load detector
And the OBD1 ecu has a input from this to D10

Has anyone done this conversion
thanks

 

 

also interested in the concept of an OBD1 hondata setup, someone please elaborate.

 

What did you want to know about hondata obd1 ?

 

When I make my harnesses, I have as follows:

OBd0 / Goes to / OBD1
B5 alternator control A16
B14 alternator FR signal D9

HTH-Jason


[Modified by Blown90hatcH, 8:46 AM 12/12/2002]

 

Hey Blown90hatch

When why when i look up the wiring diagram for a 90-91 Civic, CRX

B5 is Alt RF signal
B14 is alternator control

Its hard to see

But the first mark is B5
Second B14




[Modified by Camshaft, 8:39 PM 12/8/2002]


[Modified by Camshaft, 8:40 PM 12/8/2002]

 

i check my schematic and blownhatch is right

 

can you post it or something

 

bump for j00... I'm interested in this too.

 

blownhatch is right
click on this link

i also replied to your thread on rs with the same info

 

BlackCRX , good link, thanks.

 

np, always glad to help someone out

 

blownhatch is the obd0-0bd1 GOD!!!!!! lol!

 

I have done this conversion three times on my cars. And although I do not remember pin numbers right off the top of my head, I can tell you that this does sound like an error. Because BOTH wires do indeed need to be connected. So assuming that you have the pin numbers right, I would connect B5 (pre-1992) to D9 (1992+) and B14 (pre-1992) to A16 (1992+). As for the ELD, both pre-1992 and 1992+ cars have this. And this needs to be connected as well.

 

if what you guys are waying is correct, then that link is wrong

 

the link im refering to is the same as what everyone here is stating
b15 to a16 and b14 to d9
if you didnt read the little paragraph on the top of the page that explains everything then i suggest you read it first

 

Ok I am going crazy

Alldata and Shop key say

obd0
B5 is alt RF signal
B14 alt output

OBD1
D9 alt FR signal
A16 is output signal

which means ( this is what people are saying)

B5 is alt RF signal to A16 is output signal
B14 alt output to D9 alt FR signal
You tell me why does that look WRONG ?

StorminMatt says : I would connect
B5 is alt RF signal (pre-1992) to D9 alt FR signal (1992+) and
B14 alt output (pre-1992) to A16 is output signal (1992+).








[Modified by Camshaft, 11:04 PM 12/9/2002]


[Modified by Camshaft, 11:15 PM 12/9/2002]


[Modified by Camshaft, 11:17 PM 12/9/2002]

 

got a red x

 

Okay, although I don't remember pin numbers off the top of my head, I do remember that if you use plugs from a 1992-1995 Civic (and not Integra, Accord, or Prelude), you connect a pink wire to a blue wire on the 1988-1991 harness.

 

that is alt output to alt output

 

wow, i think i figured this whole issue out. i am doing research for the b17 swap into my wife's 90 EF and making my own OBD0 --> OBD1 ECU jumper harness.

i'm looking at my obd1 ecu plugs cut from a 1992 GS-R and there is no wire at A16 (ALT C). I looked at the 90-93 teg service manual and in the wiring diagrams there is only a single wire (ALT F) going to the alternator from the ECU which is D9.

Apparently, the P61 (OBD1 1992-1993 GS-R) ECU and the 1992-1993 GS-R alternator do not have the ALT C wiring, so it isn't necessary for me to include it in my jumper harness. This would seem to also be the case with an OBD0 B16 ECU (PW0 or PR3), there is no pin location for ALT C (http://tech2.hybridgarage.com/ecu.php?ecutype=pr3_a). My ECU also doesn't look for ELD, nor does an obd0 pr3 or pw0.

*HOWEVER* with an OBD1 P28, P30, or P72 ECU (and possibly others) the ECU does look for an ALT C signal, so if you want to run one of these ECU's with an obd1 b17, or an obd0 b16 swap you better make sure you get an alternator that has the ALT C signal and wire things up properly. This is why people say that to convert from obd0 to obd1 you sometimes have to get an obd1 alternator.

wow, i feel so enlightened. I hope this info will help someone out. i've been racking my brain, and then all the sudden a lightbulb turned on in my head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, i think i figured this whole issue out. i am doing research for the b17 swap into my wife's 90 EF and making my own OBD0 --&gt; OBD1 ECU jumper harness.

i'm looking at my obd1 ecu plugs cut from a 1992 GS-R and there is no wire at A16 (ALT C). I looked at the 90-93 teg service manual and in the wiring diagrams there is only a single wire (ALT F) going to the alternator from the ECU which is D9.

Apparently, the P61 (OBD1 1992-1993 GS-R) ECU and the 1992-1993 GS-R alternator do not have the ALT C wiring, so it isn't necessary for me to include it in my jumper harness. This would seem to also be the case with an OBD0 B16 ECU (PW0 or PR3), there is no pin location for ALT C (http://tech2.hybridgarage.com/ecu.php?ecutype=pr3_a). My ECU also doesn't look for ELD, nor does an obd0 pr3 or pw0.

*HOWEVER* with an OBD1 P28, P30, or P72 ECU (and possibly others) the ECU does look for an ALT C signal, so if you want to run one of these ECU's with an obd1 b17, or an obd0 b16 swap you better make sure you get an alternator that has the ALT C signal and wire things up properly. This is why people say that to convert from obd0 to obd1 you sometimes have to get an obd1 alternator.

wow, i feel so enlightened. I hope this info will help someone out. i've been racking my brain, and then all the sudden a lightbulb turned on in my head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the info bro. Thats some goodness right there!

 

Yum, good stuff there. But I build all my harnesses so that you do not need to run the OBD1 alternator.

 

edit: read somthing wrong

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yum, good stuff there. But I build all my harnesses so that you do not need to run the OBD1 alternator. </TD></TR></TABLE>

how can that be if you are running an ECU that looks for ALT C and ELD but the alternator you have doesn't have that? Help an electrically illiterate person out (me) and shed some light on the matter.