dr_latino999

This is what I have established so far from an MPFI OBD-0 to OBD-1 wiring harness jumper. I will figure out OBD-1 ECU to OBD-0 chassis in a bit, I.E wires that have to be run back into the engine.

CORRECTIONS ARE WELCOME UPDATE #10
KEY
XXXXXXXXXXXX Not Used
?????????????? What Goes here?

OBD-0 || OBD-1 HARNESS CONNECTIONS: PROOF-READ BY TURBOGIXXER
Further assistance and commentary by vtecn8ive
Thanks to sanimalp for converting this table to vBulletin format

A01 - INJ #1 || A01 - INJ #1
A02 - PG1 || A23 - PG1
A03 - INJ #2 || A03 - INJ #2
A04 - PG2 || A24 - PG2
A05 - INJ #3 || A05 - INJ #3
A06 - PCS || A20 - PCS
A07 - INJ #4 || A02 - INJ #4
A08 - LOCKSOL || XXXXXXXXXXX
A09 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX
A10 - EGR CSV|| A11
A11 - IACV || A09 - IACV
A12 - FLR1 || A07 - FLR1
A13 - IGP1 || A25 - IGP1
A14 - FLR2 || A08 - FLR2
A15 - IGP2 || B01 - IGP2
A16 - GRD || A26 - LG1
A17 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX
A18 - GRD || B02 - LG2
B01 - VBP || D01 - VBU
B02 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX
B03 - ACC || A15 - ACC
B04 - FANC || A12 - FANC
B05 - ALT || A16 - ALT
B06 - MIL || A13 - MIL
B07 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX
B08 - ACS || B05 - ACS
B09 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX
B10 - CYP P || B11 - CYP P
B11 - FUSEBOX|| xxxxxxxxxxxx
B12 - CYP M || B12 - CYP M
B13 - FUSEBOX|| B09 - STARTER
B14 - ALT || D09 - ALT
B15 - Igniti || A21 - ICM
B16 - VSS || B10 - VSS
B17 - Igniti || A22 - ICM
B18 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXXX
B19 - ELD || D10 - ELD
B20 - SCS || D04 - SCS
C01 - CKP P || B15 - CKP P
C02 - CKP M || B16 - CKP M
C03 - TDC P || B13 - TDC P
C04 - TDC M || B14 - TDC M
C05 - IAT || D15 - IAT
C06 - ECT || D13 - ECT
C07 - TPS || D11 - TPS
C08 - EGR VLS|| D12
C09 - PA || NOTUSEDXXXXX
C10 - BKSW || D02 - BKSW
C11 - MILGRND|| D17 - MAP
C12 - SG2 || D22 - SG2
C13 - VCC1 || D19 - VCC1
C14 - SG1 || D21 - SG1
C15 - VCC2 || D20 - VCC2
C16 - O2S || D14 - PHO2S


OBD-1 || OBD-0 ECU CONNECTIONS
A01 - INJ #1 || A01 - INJ #1
A02 - INJ #4 || A07 - INJ #4
A03 - INJ #2 || A03 - INJ #2
A04 - VTEC || RUN TO ENGINE BAY
A05 - INJ #3 || A05 - INJ #3
A06 - PO2SHTC|| RUN TO ENGINE BAY
A07 - FLR1 || A12 - FLR1
A08 - FLR2 || A14 - FLR2
A09 - IACV || A11 - IACV
A10 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXX
A11 - EGR CSV|| A10 - EGR CSV
A12 - FANC || B04 - FANC
A13 - MIL || BO6 - MIL
A14 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXX
A15 - ACC || B03 - ACC
A16 - ALT || B05 - ALT
A17 - IAB CS || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (B18C1 Only)
A18 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXX
A19 - FAS || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
A20 - PCS || A06 - PCS
A21 - ICM || B15 - IGNITION
A22 - ICM || B17 - IGNITION
A23 - PG1 || A02 - PG1
A24 - PG2 || A04 - PG2
A25 - IGP1 || A13 - IGP1
A26 - LG1 || A16 - GRD
B01 - IGP2 || A15 - IGP2
B02 - LG2 || A18 - GRD
B03 - AFSA || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
B04 - AFSB || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
B05 - ACS || B08 ACS
B06 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXX
B07 - ATP PN || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
B08 - PSPSW || Power steering Load - HARDWIRE (PS ONLY)
B09 - STS || B13 - FUSEBOX
B10 - VSS || B16 - VSS
B11 - CYP P || B10 - CYP P
B12 - CYP M || B12 - CYP M
B13 - TDC P || C03 - TDC P
B14 - TDC M || C04 - TDC M
B15 - CKP P || C01 - CKP P
B16 - CKP M || C02 - CKP M
D01 - VBU || B01 - VBP
D02 - BKSW || C10 - BKSW
D03 - KS || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (If Using B-Series Motor)
D04 - SCS || B20 - SCS
D05 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXX
D06 - VTP SW || RUN TO ENGINE BAY
D07 - TXD/RXD|| XXXXXXXXXXXX
D08 - BAROOUT|| RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
D09 - ALT || B14 - ALT
D10 - ELD || B19 - ELD
D11 - TPS || C07 - TPS
D12 - EGR VLS|| C08 - EGR VLS
D13 - ECT || C06 - ECT
D14 - PHO2S || C16 - O2S
D15 - IAT || C05 - IAT
D16 - VREF || RUN TO ENGINE BAY (AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY)
D17 - MAP || C11 - MILGRND
D18 - NOTUSED|| XXXXXXXXXXX
D19 - VCC1 || C13 - VCC1
D20 - VCC2 || C15 - VCC2
D21 - SG1 || C14 - SG1
D22 - SG2 || C12 - SG2


*Image provided by sanimalp


Motor before placement in bay, harness has already been wired for OBD-1 Components.


As you can see, I got creative with placement of the injector resistor box as I am still using OBD-0 injectors.


Extra wires for Oxygen Sensor Heater, VTEC Pressure Switch, and VTEC Solenoid. The other plug is from the MPFI addition last year.


Interior harness after conversion, wires in A/D plug still have to be wrapped as they are waiting for the addition of VTEC and VTEC Pressure.


How you put a motor in by yourself in 30 minutes


Completed interior harness, so fresh and so clean.


Here you can see where the extra wires are sneaking out into the Engine Bay.


And the passenger side of the engine bay where all the harness meets and greats itself.


Now all it needs is a heart, I mean ECU.


Ok, ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, I have fixed the Oxygen sensor heating issue. For the record, this is the correct destination for the wires at the oxygen sensor plug and their destinations with the harness-
Orange/Black - Heater (ECU A6)
Grey(WHITE) - Signal (ECU D14)
Yellow/Black - Injector 12 Volt
Green/White - Ground

Oxygen Sensor Proper, to the plug
Orange/Black --> Black
Grey(White) --> White
Yellow/Black --> Black
Green/White --> Green

<FONT SIZE="3">REFERENCE</FONT>
http://www.sohchonda.com/forums/inde...howtopic=10073


<FONT SIZE="3">Adding OBD-1 Injectors</FONT>
OBD-0 MPFI W/ Injector Resistor Box


HOW-TO Delete The Box



Modified by dr_latino999 at 7:19 PM 4/14/2007


Modified by dr_latino999 at 11:11 AM 4/19/2007


Modified by dr_latino999 at 11:12 AM 2/14/2008


Modified by dr_latino999 at 8:39 AM 10/15/2008


Modified by dr_latino999 at 8:39 AM 10/15/2008


Modified by dr_latino999 at 8:39 AM 10/15/2008

vegaskurt

Bump and subscribed. Im making my own jumper.

dr_latino999

Mooching off of my blood, sweat and research are we? Lol, here are all the links I have used so far to compile this information.

1) http://tech2.hybridgarage.com/...pr3_a
2) http://www.gutterslide.com/fou....html
3) http://tech2.hybridgarage.com/..._obd1
4) http://www.hondata.com/techwiringgsr.html
5) https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1046344
6) http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...-OBD1

elmalouno

i think what you are trying to do is cool, and the info would be great. trouble is its bad for business. there are a few people on here that could help you with out thinking about it. but if people can make there own jumper and be sure of the info, its going to get alot harder to sell those neat and tidy jumpers for 150 bux.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmalouno &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think what you are trying to do is cool, and the info would be great. trouble is its bad for business. there are a few people on here that could help you with out thinking about it. but if people can make there own jumper and be sure of the info, its going to get alot harder to sell those neat and tidy jumpers for 150 bux. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really. Consider that he is using junkyard and putting alot of time into just soldering it. People that look to buy pre-made harness will not look into make them. Not everyone has the time to make this AND trouble shoot it if it has a problem.

This is a OBD1 pinout I put together a while ago, Here

Many people have stolen it.

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not really. Consider that he is using junkyard and putting alot of time into just soldering it. People that look to buy pre-made harness will not look into make them. Not everyone has the time to make this AND trouble shoot it if it has a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE> Exactly, I spent 6 hours yesterday researching and connecting and still maybe cleared 11 connections out of 40 some.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A14 - FLR2 --&gt; ???????????? --&gt; Possible A08 on OBD-1 Side, Is this correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, A7 or A8, they are the same thing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B13 - FUSEBOX--&gt; ???????????? --&gt; Possible B09 on OBD-1 Side, Main Relay?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are right about B9, but it is the starter input.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B17 - Igniti --&gt; ???????????? --&gt; Possible A22 on OBD-1 Side, Ignitor Unit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Corrrect, A21 or A22, same thing.
Same for B15

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">C09 - PA --&gt; ????????????
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No need for it, PA sensor is in a OBD1 and controlled in there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">C11 - MILGRND--&gt; ???????????? --&gt; Possible D17 on OBD-1 Side, MAP?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is MAP signal, You are correct thou, it is D17.


I may have skiped over some, I will get back to them.

dr_latino999

Ok, the only question now remains with B11 and we will have the whole OBD-0 harness figured out.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr_Latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B11 - FUSEBOX--&gt; ???????????? N0T USED IN OBD-1 ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where does this go?

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, the only question now remains with B11 and we will have the whole OBD-0 harness figured out.

Where does this go?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know where it goes, but I have to double check it.

vegaskurt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not really. Consider that he is using junkyard and putting alot of time into just soldering it. People that look to buy pre-made harness will not look into make them. Not everyone has the time to make this AND trouble shoot it if it has a problem.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, this will be nice for the DIY people that like to solder and trouble shoot. But for everyone else, paying $100 for something that is guaranteed to work is money well spent. Now if the jumper harnesses were $49.95 I dont think anyone would be trying to make one

Kinda suprised no-body from rywire has chimed in on this.

beyondspexj

i agree as i bought mine. needed things done right the first time and had no time for me to learn about doing it from scratch.

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beyondspecs_jamar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree as i bought mine. needed things done right the first time and had no time for me to learn about doing it from scratch.</TD></TR></TABLE> I would have but for the following - OBD-0 to OBD-1 VTEC is $190, and that is $10 less then the motor. If I can figure this out on my own, well then, YAY!!

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My OBD-1 Clips have no wire nor prong at A22, is that a normal occurence or is this wire to be wired to OBD-0 B15 along with OBD-1 A21?</TD></TR></TABLE>?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know where it goes, but I have to double check it. </TD></TR></TABLE> Were you able to double check it?

elmalouno

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vegaskurt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Kinda suprised no-body from rywire has chimed in on this. </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is what i meant by my post.... the reason we haven't heard from the "experts"

vegaskurt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmalouno &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is what i meant by my post.... the reason we haven't heard from the "experts"</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to mention most threads that involve wiring or a obd conversion quickly turn into an advertisement for one of the experts.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is that a normal occurence or is this wire to be wired to OBD-0 B15 along with OBD-1 A21?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, you only "need" only ICM signal. Be sides the point, A21 and A22 are the same thing, just like B15 and B17 are on OBD0

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Were you able to double check it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I was, you do not need it. It is for the gear selector.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A10 - NOTUSED--&gt; XXXXXXXXXXXX</TD></TR></TABLE>

A10 - EGR control solenoid vavle --&gt; A11

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">C08 - NOTUSED--&gt; XXXXXXXXXXXX</TD></TR></TABLE>

C8 - EGR valve lift sensor signal --&gt; D12

Malgerus

Heh I did this three years ago, I used Storminmatt's guide, not sure if it's still kicking around. It was perfect except for the distributor wiring.

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B08 - PSPSW --&gt; ??????????
D07 - TXD/RXD--&gt; ???????????
D10 - ELD --&gt; ???????????
</TD></TR></TABLE>What do I do with these three OBD-1 wires coming off the ECU?

Turbogixxer

B08 - PSPSW --&gt; It is a power steering load detector, if you do not have PS, no need. IF you do, you have to hard wire it. One side of the switch goes to B8, the other side goes to a ground.

D07 - TXD/RXD--&gt; This is the data link connector. It for a scan tool. One side goes to D7 and the other goes to D22.

D10 - ELD --&gt; B19. Yes, I know it says knock sensor, but JDM ECUs do not have a load detector like USDM ones have. D3 is for OBD1 knock sensor input. REMEMBER to have use a shielded wire the KS input.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe the chart for OBD-0 to OBD-1 is complete, and for reference, ground OBD-1 Pin D4 to check for engine codes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

BTW, if you have B20 --&gt; D4, you do not need to ground D4, the ignition adjust connector (service connector) will do it for you.

Anything else?

BTW, not props to turbogixxer? It is on

vtecn8ive

great info guys I was looking to do this now I am just sticking it out with a pr4 (obdo) chipped for vtec . But I hope to do this in the future. So this list is being updated as you do it?

-Shane

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Ok, let me see what I can do.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude, I do not see it.

Turbogixxer

NOTE: if you have a Dual injector set up (1.5L) You need to add:

B11-CYP P CYP -P Orange, CYP sensor input, N/A
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, N/A

They have to be shielded wires too.

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They have to be shielded wires too.</TD></TR></TABLE> And for reference as well, B11, B13, and B15 on OBD-1 have to be shielded as well, correct?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">o this list is being updated as you do it? -Shane</TD></TR></TABLE> Pretty much, as I gather more information I compile it so when I go to cut everything (my jumper is only covering certain odd numbered pins, don't ask) I know everything will be correct; and it helps the D.I.Y. people.

Turbogixxer

Yes, They have low voltage (at times) so if they are not sheilded wires, they will get "noise" from other stronger currents moving next to them.

B11-B16 are all shielded.

goforbroke

Damn you guys have me tempeted to make my own. So what are you guys doing going to junkyard and getting any 0bd ecu taking the connector plugs from the ecu and then doing the same to a obd1 ecu and matching the pins together to each signal.