Hey There, I'm new to the F/I scene and I'm gonna be doing a custom turbo setup soon into my 1991 Honda CRX with either a B16a1 or B18b1..as of rite now..I going with these parts..here is a list..also, what motor is more reliable with turbo?? and what other parts do I need to make this setup work??

1. Turbo - Garret T3/T04E 60 Trim w/.63 A/R Turbine
2. Wastegate - Tial 35mm
3. Turbo Manifold - Turbo Performance Manifold
4. Intercooler - MaxRev Front Mount Intercooler
5. Blowoff Valve - Greddy Type-S
6. Fuel Management - Apexi S-AFC

 

ttt

 

Anybody??

 

Isn't that the manifold company that people have had problems with before? You might want to do some searching through the archives here on that one. I'd go with something more proven as far as a manifold. Everything else on your list looks ok. The B-series weak point seems to be the pistons, as B-rods are strong. You should be ok as long as you don't go crazy with the PSI. You might want to pickup some 450cc DSM injectors if you plan on doing the AFC "hack" thing.


[Modified by mos, 1:13 PM 12/7/2002]

 

might look into getting some injectors.

 

does 450cc injectors sound good on my setup??

 

You can make some serious power with that snail. I'd look into better fuel management than that to save yourself the headache now instead later having to replacing o2 sensors every other week. That stupid hack crap always either runs rich or lean never in-between where you want it. You also didn't mention the most overlooked part of a really good turbo syatem the exhaust (including the DP and CAT.). If it doesn't flow the best your wasting a lot of fuel for a smaller gain than is possible. Turbos like the breathing room. Other than that I/C (I know there are better for around the same price) that a nice set-up you've going there. Good luck it's a lot of hard work, but it's worth it.


I won't say anything about that manifold I've never had any experience with them, and I leave it to human error why people may have had problems with them.


[Modified by tzsir, 3:51 PM 12/7/2002]

 

i'm gonna be going 3 inch downpipe, and for the cat..i already have a high-flow cat..

 

if you'll be using the hack, 450 cc DSMs or RC 440s will work. A lot of people use the AFC hack and seem to like it. or you could just pay to get a dyno tuning session in at a local shop.

 

The resolution of the hack and the actual controllabilty of it are lousy. Just because people use it doesn' t mean it's a very good way of controlling fuel management. With so many of these people using the hack then after a year saying "screw it" and buying a stand-alone I find it hard to believe that it's a very good way to do things, do you understand my point now? If it was such a good method stand-alones wouldn't have a viable market now would they? I'm not a fan of people spending more money then nessesary, or risking blowing up what has the potential to be a very fast car. Reliabilty and effciency are what we tout as the reasoning for building Honda's right? Why use such a sloppy method of making power then? We need to build our reps. as fastest on the streets and the strip to stop all the mocker created by the "Ricers" out there.

 

Where in my post did I say the "hack" was a reliable air/fuel management system? I didn't. All I said was that those who've used it appear to like its results. Some have been pleased, some haven't, but whatever. And in my post, I wasn't condoning it nor implicating, "You should really try it. It's great." I was merely going by what I've read through H-T and various other message boards.

Secondly, you're on the Internet. Continue to get excited over things like this, and I see you having a heart attack by 45.


[Modified by Daniel, 10:52 PM 12/7/2002]

 

Umm ok either you live a boring life or you just don't care about other people or helping them. Technically I'm not on the internet I'm broadcasting over it like talking over the phone just I'm doing it with ones and zeroes instead of DTMF signals. I don't like the hack at all I put it down every chance I get because there are better ways to do it than that. If you don't eliminate the bad ways of doing things you get stuck in a rut until it just brings everything down around it because people get frustrated and give up. If people give up fewer parts become available and the prices go back up to where they were about five or six years ago. I can't afford that and I know neither can you so why do you ride me for getting as you stated "excited"? I'm passionate about what I do that why I get into it so much. If there is no passion for it the why do it?

 

should i go Turbo with a B16a1 or B18b1??..also what psi is recommended on stock block??

 

For streetabilty I'd go with the B18. It all depends on the tuning as far as how much boost you can push. I wouldn't go much farther than 12-15psi just to be on the safe side.

 

any other opinions??

 

I always thought that the internals of the 18B weren't that strong and you shouldn't push it past like 8 psi, but the 18C could go to like 10 psi..