Hey whats up? Alright, I have several questions... I have a 1996 Honda Civic DX and Im going to swap a B18CR (JDM Spec ITR) Motor into it... I want something different and something that is fast... So I was gonna slap a Drag GenIII Turbo on it... I want to run 20-25psi...

The only problem I am having is I dont know everything I need to do for sure... Below is a list of things Im going to do.

1-Bore .60 over...
2-JE 9.0/1 Compression Pistons
3-Golden Eagle Sleeves
4-Equal Length Exhaust Manifold
5-Drag GenIII Turbo
6-Crower Rods
7-Crower Titanium Retainers
8-NuFormz Block Guard
9-Thicker Head Gasket
10-AEM Engine Management System
11- and of course upgrade the fuel system...

Is that everything I would need to do to run that much boost safely on the motor? or are there more things I would need to do??? I love the Type R motors. Thats why I want to slap a turbo on one... Also Im wondering if it would be best to add a stroker kit, and what kinda fuel would I have to run on if I was driving around town??? Just Premium fuel, or does it have to be the octane??? Or does octane only have to be used during racing??? Please let me know your opinions on this...

Thank you...

 

I don't see cams/camgears/springs/etc. anywhere in there. You're going to need that stuff if you want to get the extra power..

Personally, I would never start with a Type R if I were going to boost that much. You're going to be replacing some of the major components in the Type R head/block anyways if you ever want to boost that high.. I would look into even lower compression for that high of boost. Wow I said boost 3 times in there!

You should consider a GSR engine or an LS engine. I would, it's much cheaper. As for fuel, it will all depend on the tuning and compression. More than likely you won't need a super high octane fuel, but I'm not sure because I've never had a turbo setup before.

I would seriously not start with the Type R though. It's not worth it to me.

By the way, what is an "equal length exhaust manifold?" You will be running a turbo manifold..

Don't forget a good clutch..

 

Nameless, how do you figure that???? My friend's GSR turbo EK with a similar setup runs B16 cams and a Portflow GSR head with the JG Edelbrock Victor X manifold... Stock valves and Portflow inners.... His car on the dyno made ~350whp on 13psi.... advancing the cam gears lost power... retarding them lost power.... They were best zeroed out... His car just runs a chipped P28 and Hondata 2b... Basically it's a B18C bored .50mm over with JE 9.0:1 slugs, Eagle rods, Portflow GSR head, B16 cams, Victor X manifold, RC 900's, chipped P28 and Hondata.... It ran an 11.91@119 on 13lbs... heres a couple vids of my friend's cars... It is "Khamlane's" EK.... Latez http://www.engr.orst.edu/~uyemuraa/ just right click and save target as on Honda-Tech Video.mpeg... Latez

 

I'm with Nameless in saying that it's useless to start with a Type R engine. You'll be apparently replacing most/ all of the parts that make it a Type R in the first place. In the end, you'll end up with nearly identical motors whether you start with GSR or R, except you'll pay a lot more for one than the other.

And besides, I believe the Type R crank/ rods/ valves are less beefy than a GSR due to weight reduction needed to help them survive at high rpms. You don't want that for a turbo setup.

 

You aked about cams, the Cams I was gonna use are Skunk2 Turbo Cams and Skunk2 Cam Gears...

 

Also you said it would be better to go with B18C1, why would you go B18C1? Just because Im actually replacing all the parts from the Integra Type R Motor and its pointless??? Well if I didnt go Type R I thought about B18C but I also thought about a B18C5 Block with B16B or B16A head??? How you think that would be...

Thanks...

 

Well see, the Type R and GSR engine are close to the same thing, except some parts are different. These happen to be most of the parts you plan on replacing anyways. Other than that, I believe the block is the same, so no use hunting for a Type R block. I believe the B16B head is almost the same as a Type R head, and the b16a head is almost the same as a gsr head. Even if there are some slight differences, I don't think it's worth it putting an effort mixing and matching them.

Whichever combo you start with, it seems after you're done the result will be close to the same. So start with the cheapest combo. Hell, I'd even go for a blown motor (if rebuildable).

 

If you're gonna spend that much money...why not be really original and get a hold of a k20 engine?

Let us know how good that engine is with boost.

Jay Kim

 

I dont want to go K20A because its a lot of money to swap into the Civic... I dont think its a direct bolt in and I dont want to have to custom anything... That may sound crazy... but yea...

I thinK I will go B18C1 JDM Spec...

Peace...

 

So say I was to go B18C JDM Spec GSR Motor, would I need to pistons?? So that it would lower the compression??? Or no? Because Im thinking if I went full B18C motor, the extra $2k it takes to put into the swap for the B18C5 Motor I could just put that into the turbo on the B18C, and how much boost could it handle stock???

Thanks...

 

That's ok. There's many different ways to go about it. Like I said, I've never ran a turbo before. But look how much boost he wants to run... don't you think he should be looking into different cams? Your friend is using B16 cams, but why? I don't understand that..

 

Turbo motors don't need high lift, long duration cams... The air is already being pressurized so it just get squeezed in there anyways... My friend Kenny's GSR turbo made 505whp on 22lbs. with GSR cams... That's in his daily driven EK...

 

I would always go with a GSR motor over an ITR for whatever you build it for.... All motor i would rip out the internals and swap them for a high compression setup... I would send the head out to Portflow so there goes the ITR's stock porting... The cams could be saved but i would still most likely swap the from some JUN3's, Toda B's, or SK2 stage 2's.... As for the B16A's head being similar to the GSR it is actually not... The CTR, ITR, and B16A all share the same cast.... PR3... The GSR (P72) is the different one out of the 4... it does however not have the OE port/polish as the CTR/ITR do...

 

I agree 100%. Me...I'm planning on going with an ITR motor in my crx, but that's only because I'm leaving it close to stock in the interest of durability. It will need it if it's to put up with my driving. If you go as far as swapping internals, I see no point in getting an ITR motor.