i was driving home and it just died. it acted like timing belt but hte motor still turns over and it fired a couple times but it won't start. I think that the fuel pump died or the fuel filter is clogged. Anyone have ideas? If it's the fuel filter, i know the one in teh engine, is there anymore or is that it? also, how hard is it to get the fuel pump out if it is dead? thanks for any help

Jeff

 

What makes you think it is fuel pump? Can you hear it prime when you turn the key to on? Igniter going bad is much more likely and same results. Check for spark.

 

 

possibley the Ignition Rotor/Cap

 

ok, so do i check for spark the same way i check for spark on a dirtbike? just take a plug out and put it against the motor and crank the motor?
also, if it's the ignition rotor/cap how much does that cost and what is it exactly? is that the black cap that all the plug wires are plugged into? i'm nto too good with foriegn cars, i grew up working on v8's. How do i trouble shoot what else it could be if i'm not getting a spark? thanks for your help guys. My friend duke said it could be no spark also, so maybe that is it becuase the car just died completely. anyways, i appreciate your help.
ludehrt, how did you get an f22a6 in your honda? mine has an a4. what is the difference for hte a6 to get 10 more hp? someone said i should put an intake off a 92 ex onto my 91ex and it'll give me more hp. e-mail me sometime

oh ya, i don't hear anything when i turn the key (fuel pump workign) but i never really heard it on this car. like, my truck, i hear the fuel pump working, on this one i never did so i couldn't tell ya.

Jeff
thanatos@abcs.com


[Modified by cyrixvsp2, 10:11 PM 11/28/2002]

 

That will work.

 

Do the spark test before you pull the Cap/rotor off. Pulling off the cap and rotor and really straight foward. Take off the screws and pull off. Same with the rotor.
A bad cap/rotor is a VERY common problem with honda motors.


10hp.....Yup, its the intake/ecu and exhaust manifold.

I have the F22a6 intake and ecu for sale if you are interested. Click on my "for sale" link.

Laterz

 

Sounds like it could be your distributor. Just happened to me last week. Same exact symptoms.

How many miles does your car have? When's the last time the timing belt was replaced? Honda says every 90k.

 

first off, it's not the timing. i already checked, the lifters move when you crank the engine.
i'll test the spark tomorrow morning.
ludehrt, i thought the a6 and a4 use the same exhaust header? anyways, is the manifold a direct bolt on?

Jeff

 

Bet you anything its the Igniter or Coil.
My 4th Gen Coupe died also and it was the Igniter.......just Check

 

ok, i went and messed with it today. My friend who is also a BMW mechanic came and helped. We found out it's not getting spark. The timing belt is ok. We changed the rotor and cap and that wasn't it, still no spark.
He said maybe the computer is screwed up or the distributor took a ****. Whoever had the distributor die, how much did it cost to replace and was it that hard? I hope it's nothing worse than that, i could'nt think of anything more it could be. Would the ecu going out cause no spark? If so how do i find out if it's the ecu or the distributor? thanks for all your help guys....hopefuly my car will be running soon.

Jeff

 

Did you test the igniter?

 

how do i test the ignitor? where is it located at? i havne't check it yet. thanks for the help. i really need to get it running by monday because i have no way to get to the airport for my flight lessons.

Jeff

 

You can test the coil, but coils rarely go bad. To check the igniter, remove the distributor cap and that plastic cover inside. The coil is the bigger module inside w/ the terminal w/ the spring sticking out(looks like a spark plug wire could go on). The igniter is towards the bottom, a much smaller module w/ wires going to it. Disconnect the wires going to the igniter(pay attention to where they go), w/ the ignition ON, check for 12 V between black/yellow wire(middle terminal) and ground, also check for 12 V between white/blue and ground. Turn the key off and hook the wires back up. Now check for continuity between the blue wire and the metal casing of the igniter, there should be between 1.1K and 3.3K ohms. If it is getting 12V it is most likely bad.

 

SP, thanks a bunch, i found that the ignitor is expensive so i don't have hte money to replace it if it's not broken. i'm gonna go try to test that the way you said and see if that works. i'll get back with ya.

 

I found this, it looks close and may be a little better worded than my attempt.
http://www.crx.org/southcal/tech/ign...er-testing.htm
just don't pay attention to the wire colors.


[Modified by sp, 9:42 PM 11/30/2002]

 

ok, sp, i really appreciate your help. i went out to test these wires like you said and i guess i'm stupid with these little jap cars. american is so much easier. but anyways, i looked at hte ignitor from the top of the car and there were 3 wires on the top of the ignitor and 1 on the side. the one on teh side was a bluish/greenish (could be faded) wire. i assume that's the blue wire you told me about. then the first wire closest to it on the top is a white/yellowish wire with a really really light brown stripe on it, then thereis the black/yellow wire, then a wire that's white/yellowish with a greenish/bluish wire so i take it that one is the white with blue stripe wire. tell me if this sounds right. if that's good then tomorrow i'll go out and try testing it. and by testing to ground what are you exactly touching the negative too? i can't quite get to the metal case of the ignitor so would just the metal distributor case work? i hope it's just the ignitor and i don't have to go looking for all these relays and switches that this thing says you have to if the ignitor is good.
also, when checking the blue wire to the ground for continuity i have my meter set to ohms and it should give me 1.1kohms-3.3k ohms...what will it show if i don't have continuity? again, i hope i do because that means that the ignitor is bad and i know what to replace. thanks again, i really appreciate your help. not even our local honda dealership helped me out when i asked them. they just said they had to hook it up to a computer because they do'nt know what it could be.

 

Yeah, those wires turn kind of yellowy and brownish in there after so many years, but it sounds like you found the right wires. And for ground, just try a couple, dist housing, engine block, head, just in case you got a bad connection. If the ohms read outside of that reading by a substantial number, then it is bad. If it reads 0 it's shorted and if it reads infinite, then it is broken internally. BTW, I'll bet you Honda knows what is wrong, but there knee jerk response is " That'll be $75 to diagnose the problem". Easy extra money from us people that work hard for our money.

 

ok, i'll try checking that tomorrow when it's light out. it's about 15 degrees outside here so it makes it hard on the hands working with these wires. but i'm confused now, if i get 1.1-3.3k then that means the connection is good and that the ignitor must be bad. that's what i'm taking from it. because if it doesn't have good continuity then there is a problem somewhere else. also, what ignitors will fit on my car and work the same because i need to get this car running asap and i'm limited on accord parts with local junkyards. thanks

 

ok guys, just went to honda and dropped 100$ on an ignitor and put it in, car didn't start. what else could it be? i'm thinking about buying a whole distributor but i know if i do, it won't be that. what else could go wrong? I checked the wires. Ok, there are 4 wires, i checked the continuity of the blue wire (on the side of the unit) with the ground and it was 1.9kohm so i guess that is good. I also got 12v on the black with yellow wire. the white with blue stripe didn't get anything, but the other wire (white with slightly brown stripe) had 12v. The 2 wires that had 12v were the 2 wires closest to the wire attached to the side if that helps. the one furthest away (white with blue stripe) didn't have 12v with ignition on. what does that mean then? i thought only 2 wires would have 12v so i figured that maybe the colors were just told to me wrong. how do i test the coil? i don't know what else it could be. thanks for your help guys. let me know asap cause i'm going to go buy a distributor tomorrow cause i have to have a car to get to school. i'm running out of money too so i can't just start replacing everything (which i've almost done).

 

the test for the coil is remove coil. measure resistance between blk/yel + and wht/blu - terminals should be 6-8 ohms. measure resistance between both positives (blk/yel terminal and spring) hope this helps you get to class

 

You said the White/blue didn't get anything. That should have 12 V. I'll check my manual when I get home, but if that wire isn't getting 12 V then it sounds like the main relay or the resistor inside the Coil might be bad.

 

well, i checked the resistance of the coil (between positive and coil tower) and i got nothing so i went to honda and spent another 100$ for a coil, put it in and it worked...YAY. so that "it'll never go bad" coil that the honda technition told me about was really bad. after spending so much money i should have known that and checked it first. you live you learn.

 

You also saved money and prevented a future problem. The dealer would have charged $75 to diagnose the problem and onother $75 to replace the coil, plus jacked up the cost of the parts. The igniters had a silent recall casue they are known to go bad, so you won't go through that problem. Good to hear it.