My 96 civic dx broke a motor mount and ripped off the bracket from the d16y8 block with a d16y7 head. So I pulled the motor and helicoiled the mount bracket back in replacement distributor cap and rotor, CV axles, timing belt and cover, alternator belt, power steering belt, the ground on the passenger side by the battery went to try to start it and there's crank but no start. now while I did all that it did rain A lot and i got some water in throttle body. I did not realize it when I started trying to start it. Could the water have ruined my fuel injectors. It sounds like it wants to turn it over but it just won't.

 

It's got strong spark, Its top dead center on both so I think the Timing's right, it is a d16y8 block with a d16y7 head. So as long as I won't have to do some offset timing. I know it can't be the timing. Like I said it keeps trying to turn over it. Cranks just fine but just won't fire up. It would start on the first try every time before it broke the engine mount.

 

Do you hear it firing at all? Did you pull the distributor? If you did pull the distributor then pull the distributor cap and then and pull the distributor. Turn the rotor 180 degrees and see if you can reinstall the distributor in the head (I can on my Civic) Then put the cap back on and try again.

 

Rainwater in the throttle body usually won’t damage injectors. Since the engine was pulled, it’s more likely something was missed. Check for spark first, then confirm the distributor is installed correctly and the firing order is right (1-3-4-2). Also double-check engine grounds and timing belt alignment. Those are common no-start causes after this kind of work.

 

It's got spark and the grounds are in place, timing is at top dead center, but the motor was rebuilt two owners ago with a d16y8 (vtec) block with d16y7 head (non VTEC) and I am not sure the cam was from the VTEC block was used or not in the head of the non-vtech. Is it possible that the timing is off even though they're both dead center? I know it's getting fuel because the spark plugs have fuel on them, it's getting spark cuz I pulled each one out and they sparked, and it's has suction on the throttle body when you put your hand there so I'm assuming it's getting air.. I just replaced the distributor cap and rotor but I notice the rotor is not pointed at 1 when it's at top dead center, it's pointed at number 3 and it's a single slotted distributor so you can only change it. 180° which then still would not be pointed at one. Can either one of those be a factor? Or is there another reason I wouldn't start if it's getting spark air and fuel. Could there be a plug not not All the way in? Or is there any specific fuses I should check? Could the ECU have gotten damaged when I was pulling wires?

 

Did you pull the distributor at all or did you only pull the distributor cap?
Did you ever pull all the plug wires off the cap at the same time? Actually looking at your picture it looks like you have the plug wires in correct. So if you pulled the distributor at all I would pull it and flip it 180 and see what happens. It's not going to damage anything if it's 180 out. It just won't fire or it will possibly fix it.

The problem with verifying TDC per the crankshaft pulley (like in your picture) is the crankshaft spins 2 times for every one time the cam shaft turns. In other words as the crankshaft turns the pully will show Top Dead Center but the cam shaft will actually be at Bottom Dead Center. The only way to be sure is to pull the drive belts and pull the crank pulley and pull the timing belt cover. Then verify that the TDC marks are correct per below.Did you ever manually turn the cam shaft or crank shaft more than a few degrees with the timing belt off?
Edit: Also check the distributor pointer while you have the timing covers off and are on verified TDC.

 

Thinking further and assuming you did pull the distributor and you did verify the timing marks when you did the belt I would flip the distributor 180 and see what happens before I went after verifying the timing belt .

 

So I tested my compression and its at 90,40,60,75. There is a hiss with obvious blow out the intake on cylinder 2 or three when trying to start it. When I broke my mount/ripped timing belt bracket off the belt cut into the cover some. I was hopping it didn't jump timing and damage a valve or piston. now I'm thinking it did. When I bought it it was from a friend. It was her mechanic husband's project car that was supposed to be in great shape. After getting it I had to replace wheel bearings, brakes, coilovers, engine mounts because this one broke. So where I was under the impression of being a steller $1,000 car turned out to be several thousand dollar car at this point. Which is far more than it's worth. What would be the most cost effective way to get back on the road? How would I test to see the rings are blown, or hopefully just head gasket which I do have a whole new set to rebuild the head, or valves need that's damaged and needs to be replaced? I have no leak down tool to test leak down pressure. And if it new his an engine rebuild or a new motor which would be cheaper to do myself that in a semi timely manner. I rebuilt small 2-stroke motors hundreds of times but never rebuilt the four-stroke motor. Much less a car motor. And if im going to be replacing or rebuilding the motor how do I get more power out of it for with out spending much more than a normal diy replace or the rebuild. As always thank you for you input.


Timing belt cover

 

Also there wasn't a pointer mark for the drive shaft like on the diagram there was a so I think I set the make on the shaft pulley straight up not the key way I will check that here shortly. If I did would that explain the compression test and hiss out the intake manifold.?