92 civic sedan dx D15B7 5spd manual won't start
Ok Honda guru's I'm at my wits end here. Someone please help. This is my oldest son's first car and first Honda. I couldn't of been more proud he's following in my footsteps. But anyway already replaced ignition switch, new fuel pump(actually 3rd one), and also 4 fuel pump relays. Car started and ran Saturday night 6/28/25. We just did head gasket, timing belt, water pump, tensioner, valve stem seals, set valves, the whole 9 yards. Went to start it Monday evening now fuel pump isn't kicking on and car won't start.
When you turn the key to the "ON" position... and you do NOT hear the fuel pump... does the "Check Engine" light stay illuminated ?
I know this sounds stupid but between listening for fuel pump to kick on, being frustrated, and trying other little things, I didn't pay attention to that part. Here is what blows my mind I'm pushing car out of garage so I have key to on position hit a dip go to start pushing again then fuel pump kicks on and car starts! Out of curiosity what does it mean if I don't hear pump kick on and check engine light does stay on?
Ok so tried to start car this morning and same thing fuel pump wouldn't kick on and yes the check engine light does stay on. Got it into garage left key on pulled back carpet where ECU is and literally tapped around where e brake handle is with my hand and all of a sudden fuel pump kicks on and check engine light goes out
Your ECU is failing... replacing the capacitors and the fuel pump I/C device MAY save it... but what you are experiencing is power not being distributed inside the ECU to all of the necessary circuit pathways. The banging and pulling on various items inside the car is random and completely unrelated to your issue: In your ECU's current condition, applying power to it begins warming the internal components on the main board, and once warmed enough, the circuit pathways begin functioning properly. This delay will continue to get longer and longer from a cold turn of the key... until it doesn't work at all. Repairing the ECU immediately (before this damage gets any worse) is your only shot at any long-term effective function from it. These types of failures are super common now because of the age of the ECU's.
Your ECU is failing... replacing the capacitors and the fuel pump I/C device MAY save it... but what you are experiencing is power not being distributed inside the ECU to all of the necessary circuit pathways. The banging and pulling on various items inside the car is random and completely unrelated to your issue: In your ECU's current condition, applying power to it begins warming the internal components on the main board, and once warmed enough, the circuit pathways begin functioning properly. This delay will continue to get longer and longer from a cold turn of the key... until it doesn't work at all. Repairing the ECU immediately (before this damage gets any worse) is your only shot at any long-term effective function from it. These types of failures are super common now because of the age of the ECU's.
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