well it came back but now only telling me missfire on cyl one . since then i put my stock wires back in and put some old bosch plat 4in and took out the vafc.
well when it came on last night i bought a total new set of plugs, it seems to idle better at start up now . but i put the msd's back in to see if 1and 4 come back up thne i knwo its wires.
i tested thwe wiresthough and tested fine
for ***** and giggles i did a compression test becuase someone said something about bent valves, so i figured id check the compr just for peace of mind
cyl 1-210
cyl2-220
cly3-210
cly 4-220

anything else you guys can think of if this comes back . i called MSD and they said its not the box if so the car wouldnt even start.

 

Bad distributor or ECU? Maybe a bad or loose ground wire.

 

edit: didnt read post close enough


[Modified by RTW DC2, 2:58 PM 11/19/2002]

 

howq do i test the ecu and dist the ground should be fine , i never touched it .whay ground you talking about ?

well i have a p28 sitting at home for my hondata , but wasnt ready to install it yet , beucause no funds to tune . . . . but how do i go about further testing ?
i know the dist go bad in CRX frequesntly, but the R ? theres onlt 30k on the clock

 

If you've been running your MSD for awhile, there is a good chance that you're igniter is going.

This seems to be a big problem when running an aftermarket ignition system, like an msd, on a honda. The msd box boosts the amount of voltage being sent to the igniter which is only designed to handle a certain range of voltage. So with the MSD boosting the voltage, the igniter operates at it's uper level of the range, and sometimes beyond it's own range, causing it to go faulty in a very very short period of time.

Most guys get around 3-6 months on an igniter, including myself. I replace mine every 3-6 months depending on the type of driving i'm doing

Try picking up a new igniter from honda and switching your old one out, should solve your problem


[Modified by kungfuSiR, 3:23 PM 11/19/2002]

 

how much those things run? where's it located at ? under the cap?

 

Basically you have to remove the cap, and the rotor, it's the package sitting on the botton with all the wires going into it, *hard to explain* just pull it out and put a new one in, it's only 2 screws holding it

Well i'm up in canada, and a new igniter is about $300 dollars new so divide that by 2 if you're in the states i guess

 

ok i know what it is now , i had to wire the outboard coil to the igniter. . holy chit that much ? woa

 

Yeah they're not cheap, look around and see if you can find a slightly used one, all honda igniters as far asi know are interchangable

I know for sure
you can run these igniters
B16
B18C1 any year doesn't matter
B18C5
D16Y8 surprisingly ;0)

They all use the same igniters there are to companies that make the igniters NEC and hitachi, the NEC ones are usually on ODB 1 cars, and the Hitachi are on the newer ones, so far i haven't noticed any difference between the 2

 

yea $197 from honda ouch
well i talked to the tech there he said if it was an igniter i would know it beucase it would be all round the moard and mroe frequent .
he said since its only on cyl one now to swap yl 1 injector and another injector and see if the code stays the same or diff syl to see if an injector is bad . qith all the fuel upgrades i have i wouldnt doubt it , this prob came like a week after i had the IM off and the fuel rail was laying in the engine bay with theinjectors on it , they might agot banged around
if its the igniter then i knwo i got some laying around from som ol b18's and b16's in our little shack of a garage. weve done enough swaps and bought enough motors we should have a few.

illl et you knwo . thanks