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So, Long story short, I thought it would be fun to get a higher rated clutch for my 15 year old car and have a little fun. I got the ACT XD street sprung clutch kit. that makes it I think about 70 lbs to the clutch pedal.
Ever since I got it back it was creaking like crazy, and one day a loud snap of a metal. and I could no longer kick in the clutch to engage... somewhat. I was able to pull off the free way and coast to the gas station with a little struggle and natural fear that I would block traffic in Rush Hour on a 1 lane exit.
found out later that like everyone else, I realized that I should have reinforced the clutch pedal as it is very weak, and is very prone to shearing...
I could either buy a $300-$400 clutch brace, but I have also heard that for a fraction of the cost, if the welder is good, then they can weld a bead (properly) on each side, and the outcome (if done right) is a better clutch feel than stock.
Only problem is... I've searched High and low for a picture of where the best place to apply the 2 beads of weld, and the closest I've come to is a repair job that only welded up the broken parts. Does anyone have pictures of the right locations to weld on the clutch (I bought an ebay replacement), and anything I should be wary of, like if welded wrong, (too much or too little or too long exposure) ends up making it weaker.
if anyone has had this done, and has pictures of the weld beads, I would be so appreciative if you can post a picture or 2 of it.
BTW... I posted this, bc I see so many posts of people wondering about clutch pedal creaking... and many, even seasoned mechanics overlook the clutch pedal assembly, replacing the CMC and SCC not realizing the creak isn't coming from the cylinders (or the transmission) but the pedal itself, slowly shearing. This was an issue also in my wife's 06 accord. but it was just due to age and no clutch upgrades what so ever, I just had the accord dropped.
So I decided, to come back on Honda-tech, and post this so if anyone is wondering what the creak in your clutch is. Verify your clutch pedal assembly, Left side (Closest to driver's fender) is usually where it starts to shear. I believe if you catch it on time, its an easy weld fix. and its only 2 bolts and a pin. The pin is the hardest, as if you have a Deep socket 12, and 9 inches of extensions, (no swivel head needed, you can tuck up right next to the lower right side of fuse box, and go straight in. That was the biggest bitch for me, as the sheared metal was blocking the bolt. OI! fixed it with some elbow grease and was able to pull off the pedal assembly. the swivel head was messing me up and once everything snapped together, I realized It was easier just going straight from this angle.
Well, I got it done, and forgot about this post... but I realized I should still post it bc, I had a hell of a time figuring out what happened. I had a little OOPSIE but it was ok... Seems like maybe there is still a part that is separating, as there is still 1 click that happens.... I guess I will find out if this one ever breaks.
In the picture where it says "07 SI #213" is shown... There is a plastic cover over the spring... The welder didn't realize he melted it a bit. this maybe where the click is coming from. but to be safe, he welded the edge of the pedal, and the corner of the bend to stiffen the corner and prevent bending.
I think if it was to fail, it may fail on the right side, as the heat was melting the metal too thin and creating holes instead. the weld on this side was not as important, as the break usually happens on the left side of the pedal.
I went to a private welder on FB. dude spent an HR studying the part and welding slow to make sure he doesn't mess up the part. good range $100 -$150/hr . Mobile guys are around $200 - $250/hr. I paid $100 ...
Before upgrading your clutch, this is a must do... the most difficult part of this setup is the CMC replacement. as it is difficult to line up and get to. Best to have someone hold it in place.