Hello All,

I have used this site many times in the past and it has been a great help. I apologize in advance if i’ve double threaded I did search prior to this and found nothing in relation.

I have a 1999 Honda Civic Si (Canadian) With a d16y8. I have swapped in the engine and transmission from a 1998 Acura Integra - B18B1. The Civic was also originally automatic. I completely rebuilt the engine with lots of help and guidance from a couple friends. I am currently running the D series harness with a ton of modifications/ extensions on the Integra ECU with a jumper. Everything is hooked up correctly however it seems we get a very healthy crank with no start. The engine does keep trying to start but it’s just not there. There is spark & vehicle is building fuel pressure but it seems as if the injectors are not firing? My friends and I have checked over everything and cannot seem to locate the cause.

Please feel free to ask any further questions to obtain more detail, I appreciate any help or guidance.

Thanks.

— ADDITIONAL NOTES

Ground at At A9, A22, A10, A23 should be good



Power at A20, A11, A24, C10 all ready 12.4 volts



Power at Yel/Blk Wires at injectors is good



Noid light does not light/injector pulse is missing



Continuity to CKP, TDC, and CYP sensors are good and measure ~360ohms which is within spec as per Honda service manual



Continuity from ECM to injectors measure 0.1 ohms ground side



Scan tool shows crank signal at 200-300rpm when cranking



Known good ECU was tried and it changed nothing



ALSO Car fires and runs with ether

 

The fuel feed line between the fuel filter and the fuel rail... is it your original Civic one or did it come from an Integra ?

 

- The line came from an integra.

 

The fact that the engine runs on ether... and you are using a "known good" ECU... it seems logical that either your fuel injectors are totally clogged OR little fuel is actually getting into the fuel rail. You mentioned that you are in fact using the Integra fuel feed line. Are you sure that it is installed correctly ? With a stock fuel rail, the rail inlet end of the feed line has a larger opening on one side of the banjo fitting and a smaller opening on the other side: on the fuel filter end of the feed line, both sides of the banjo fitting are the same smaller size. The three smaller openings are all sealed by the same sized small, flat, smooth crush washer. Moving back to the fuel rail end of the feed line: make sure that the smaller opening is facing the fuel rail with a small washer in between. The larger opening is then facing out, and a larger sized washer is placed between it and the pulse dampening cap. This washer has four short barbs pointing toward the center that help center the washer around the threaded barb of the fuel rail. If you look closely, you can see that the gaps between these barbs or posts exposes the large opening of the feed line. Fuel runs down the line, through the gaps in the outer washer and into the multiple holes around the perimeter of the fuel pulse dampener and ultimately, out of the middle of the dampener and into the fuel rail. If yours isn't set up this way, fix it. If by chance a smaller smooth washer has gotten smashed into the face of the fuel pulse dampener (and thus, blocking the inlet holes), remove it and re-assemble. If the fuel feed line is already assembled this way... try another "Known Good" set of fuel injectors and make sure that they all test resistance above 12 OHM.

 

Hey, thanks for the reply.

I have good fuel pressure about 40 PSI.

The Injectors not clicking/coming on because ECM isn't commanding them on. (No pulsed ground signal)

So no point in checking injectors until we figure out why ECM isn't pulsing injectors first(giving it a ground for injectors to open)

- My friend helping me diag the issue

 

Check the engine harness ground at the thermostat housing. Make sure that the ground is clean and tight. Don't forget the two bolts on the thermostat housing itself and where they mount.

 

Yes this has been addressed already. The thermostat and the cooling pipe are freshly sandblasted so ground contact is good as well as the eyelet for the ground was originally damaged but we replaced it with a new one.

 

Thanks for all the help. Turns out we didn’t have a proper noid light. The cause was bad injectors. Put known good injectors and the car fires up.

 

Congratulations.