Hi, thanks in advance.
2001 CRV 2.0 engine.
Engine has low power, in the respect that if you start driving, it seem pretty normal until your doing 45-50 MPH. At that speed it accelerates VERY slow if at all. Doesn't backfire, doesn't miss, just does not accelerate. If you floor it, it just sits there and does not accelerate. For a unrelated issue I changed the distributer and I have the FSM, so I went down the entire list in the book and checked everything. The ONLY thing that is not correct per the manual is at idle the fuel pressure is 50-51, when you test the pressure regulator it goes to 54-55 PSI. Supposed to be 35-37 and 40-42 or so. So I was wondering if the return line could be blocked, or restricted, is that the line that attaches to the bottom of the pressure regulator? Also changed filter and all the normal stuff. ANY help appreciated Thanks

 

Automatic transmission? Does it feel/seem like it's missing a gear?

As for the fuel pressure, I mean you're out of spec right? You did the test and it failed. I'd be throwing a new regulator at it. Re-test and see if anything changes. I've only messed with the D series engines (not a B like yours) but on those, the return fuel line is hooked up to the regulator - yes.

 

 

It is an Auto it's not missing a gear, but it can accelerate to driving speed only if your real easy on the throttle. Lets say your doing 50 and floor it, it absolutely does not accelerate, just lays down. Doesn't slow down, just doesn't speed up. revs fine in neutral. I don't see how 5psi high fuel pressure can cause this, but maybe the return line is blocked, but I drove it around with the fuel pressure gauge on it. Some weird stuff here man....... In my lifetime, this is the first Honda product I have owned I'd say is a POS.

 

Okay, so we can rule out transmission. You don't have any check engine light/codes, correct?

I would have my doubts that the fuel regulator would be the cause of this, too. It's a cheap part and easy swap though. OR perhaps higher fuel pressure is a symptom of something else going on with the fuel injection system. Does the engine seem like it's firing on a 4 cylinders? Maybe a vibration or something?

Just to start with something easy, I would unplug my fuel injectors one at a time and observe for changes in idle. Maybe a fuel injector isn't responding appropriately. If that's bueno, I would want to check my spark although since you've got a newish dizzy, I'd assume you'll come up dry on that front.

How about valve clearance - when was the last time you had that checked/serviced?

 

Yup no check engine lights, runs pretty smooth. no vibration, regulator is 106 bucks lol, maybe plugs? Valves prob need adjusted but this happened on a drive. You think the timing belt could have stripped partially and jumped a tooth on the crank?

Thanks man

Steve

 

If you haven't done valves recently or within the interval (is it 30,000mi?) I'd get it done just to rule it out. I thought regulators were cheaper than that! Rockauto lists them at $40-$65+shipping.

Yeah, could have jumped a tooth on the crank/cam. I'd take the cover off and check it out. I timed my EF incorrectly years ago (3 teeth off) and it was almost unable to drive. It sounded like a V twin motorcycle. Although I would think with OBD2 the CEL would throw being off a tooth... who knows.

 

Ok, absolute solution. Converter was restricted. Reason didn't go for it sooner it is only 6 months old. But took the exhaust loose and it ran great. Ordered another replacement and it has tons of power.

Went by the FSM step by step, quite a process, these engines have lots of idling, stalling issues but this time, was the converter. Thanks for all the help.

Steve

 

What did you replace it for 6 months ago? You might have an issue further up the line (engine) that is putting extra fuel/something into the exhaust. They don't just get plugged up in 6 mos.
For example, I had a injector start hanging open when actuated by the ECU and it melted/clogged the converter.

 

Well I gotta go back 6 months. It's my friends CRV. 6 months ago it started doing weird stuff. If he parked and let it run, it would intermittently die. Then restart and it would surge. Sometimes it would restart, sometimes it would not restart. No codes, and it was seriously intermittent. He works 3 hours from home so every time he would drive to the other city it would act up, sometimes it would die while driving etc..... So at this point we scanned the forums, ran codes, and googled a lot. I am a mechanic but not cars, although I have been in the past. So a long strange trip began. According to google and forums for the symptom it had we changed. IACV, Ignition Switch, Main Fuel relay, a DEALER said it was the voltage sensor in the engine bay fuse block. Changed cap, rotor, plug, wires. After each of these it would run a while, then start acting up again, very unreliable. Was really beginning to **** me off. So one day he gets stranded at a mall, I go there, it just won't start, but a weird thing was while trying to start when you let go of the key it would almost try to start. SO long story short replaced the coil. It started right up and ran fine, for a few days. Then the intermittent crap again. As always scanning forums google, so removed converter, and found a few chunks of the converter inside loose. So we replaced. Again it was intermittent. So he got it to work the following week and it died in the parking lot of his work. So i went and got him, gave him one of my spare cars and it sat for 6 weeks. In the meantime I bought a serious snap on scanner, and he bought a FSM, a good one. SO I drive down, did an idle adjustment per the FSM, check a bunch of crap and it seems to run ok. So he hops iin it, gets 30 miles out and it dies AGAIN !!! Would not start, his time he said it had also lost power before it quit. I went to get him, and by playing with the ignition switch I got it to start, he drove it to the house. SO now I'm deeply frustrated and a little pissed, so I take the hit and go buy a remanned distributer for it. Put it in, starts right up, runs GREAT, just didn't have any power, hooked up scanner, verified timing, and thats bwhen I made the post here. So all of this is over a few months. Even a dealership visit, for 350 for nothing. So looking back, I think the distributer was bad/intermittant from the get, and the converter was a cheapo remanned. But you look on google there are THOUSANDS of people suffering drivability issues with these older Honda's and it's always something different. I have an 88 CRX that was doing the intermittant stalling, and it just cured itself. LOL Only one with zero issues is my 2011 CRZ . SO yea happy Honda !