06 CRV vibration at idle.
Hello!
i recently purchased a 06 CRV that has been sitting a while. It has 114000 miles on it.
Since I’ve had it it has had a pretty bad vibration while idling in gear. It also slightly goes up and down. That issue is worse when the AC is turned on.
took it to the shop and they said that they thought the idle air control valve was bad. They said that it came as a whole with the throttle body and could not be purchased separately. I’ve seen a couple things confirming that about 05,06 crvs.
main question is before I buy the TB which is pretty expensive, does anyone know if that sounds correct? I tried cleaning it with a rag before in case someone mentions that.
the shop was pretty thorough. They did a smoke test, relearned the idle, checked codes etc. but just wanted a second opinion.
thanks!
i recently purchased a 06 CRV that has been sitting a while. It has 114000 miles on it.
Since I’ve had it it has had a pretty bad vibration while idling in gear. It also slightly goes up and down. That issue is worse when the AC is turned on.
took it to the shop and they said that they thought the idle air control valve was bad. They said that it came as a whole with the throttle body and could not be purchased separately. I’ve seen a couple things confirming that about 05,06 crvs.
main question is before I buy the TB which is pretty expensive, does anyone know if that sounds correct? I tried cleaning it with a rag before in case someone mentions that.
the shop was pretty thorough. They did a smoke test, relearned the idle, checked codes etc. but just wanted a second opinion.
thanks!
I had a similar issue with my 2004 Element and it turned out to be the transmission mount. Was that checked? Also I would try fuel injector cleaner (Techron ). Also did they clean the throttle body. I would definitely start with the transmission mount.
US market CR-V for 05-06 was drive by wire and doesn't have an IACV. They use the electronic throttlebody for idle control.
Motor mounts are a wise thing to check. Does the vibration change in intensity in Reverse vs Drive?
Motor mounts are a wise thing to check. Does the vibration change in intensity in Reverse vs Drive?
I really felt it when I stopped at a light. I thought it was something else but I follow Honda Element Lifestyle on Youtube and he addressed the issue. He’s a mobile mechanic in California but works on all cars besides Honda’s. Worth checking out. As you have the same engine the motor mount is easy. He has a video.He also is on Instagram and answers questions. Good luck 🍀
Start car, open hood, give it some gas and see how much the engine moves. Check mounts. One one the left, right, front behind bumper/radiator. Get under the car and check the trans mount also. If it does end up being the engine mounts, go OEM cause aftermarket will take a **** quick.
Might want to check the harmonic balancer as well, the rubber bits can come out causing an imbalance that's felt when idling.
What prompted the mechanic at the shop to find the IACV to be at fault? You'd think there would be a check engine light if it was out of whack enough to idle that rough.
What prompted the mechanic at the shop to find the IACV to be at fault? You'd think there would be a check engine light if it was out of whack enough to idle that rough.
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Hello everyone thanks for the tips. I checked the mounts as well as I could and I do not think it’s the issue. There’s some movement but nothing massive. I looked at my newer car to compare and seems pretty similar.
I ended up changing the throttle body for a cheap one off eBay and it helped slightly.
I also changed spark plugs filter diff tranny and adjusted valves.
new twist I actually did get a cel which is for an intake air leak. I’ve sprayed carb cleaner, smoke test, and changed the pcv valve. Still getting the code.
if anyone has any other ideas that would be greatly appreciated. I’m thinking next to look at the sensors on the throttle body and the other parts that are part of the vacuum system.
My battery is pretty old but do not think it would be that. The power steering pump sounds like it’s probably going out as well.
I ended up changing the throttle body for a cheap one off eBay and it helped slightly.
I also changed spark plugs filter diff tranny and adjusted valves.
new twist I actually did get a cel which is for an intake air leak. I’ve sprayed carb cleaner, smoke test, and changed the pcv valve. Still getting the code.
if anyone has any other ideas that would be greatly appreciated. I’m thinking next to look at the sensors on the throttle body and the other parts that are part of the vacuum system.
My battery is pretty old but do not think it would be that. The power steering pump sounds like it’s probably going out as well.
Also just to add more symptoms.
car is very lurchy at low rpm. Stop and go traffic it will sometimes surge a little bit for example.
when cruising, if I let my foot off the gas to coast, the rpm will drop to 1000, and then jump back up to wherever it was at.
there is a whistling noise coming from rear diff. I changed the fluid but didn’t help much, but I do not think that’s related unless it’s not actually the diff making the noise.
the RPM reading is wrong. I plugged it into a bi directional scanner I got from Amazon to do the idle relearn. Did the idle relearn but noticed that the rpm is about 200-300 more on the dash than what the scanner was reading. Also, I thought I had a high idle (around 1100) but plugged in the scanner and it was showing 750ish.
Speedo is about 5 mph slow.
car is very lurchy at low rpm. Stop and go traffic it will sometimes surge a little bit for example.
when cruising, if I let my foot off the gas to coast, the rpm will drop to 1000, and then jump back up to wherever it was at.
there is a whistling noise coming from rear diff. I changed the fluid but didn’t help much, but I do not think that’s related unless it’s not actually the diff making the noise.
the RPM reading is wrong. I plugged it into a bi directional scanner I got from Amazon to do the idle relearn. Did the idle relearn but noticed that the rpm is about 200-300 more on the dash than what the scanner was reading. Also, I thought I had a high idle (around 1100) but plugged in the scanner and it was showing 750ish.
Speedo is about 5 mph slow.
Might want to check the harmonic balancer as well, the rubber bits can come out causing an imbalance that's felt when idling.
What prompted the mechanic at the shop to find the IACV to be at fault? You'd think there would be a check engine light if it was out of whack enough to idle that rough.
What prompted the mechanic at the shop to find the IACV to be at fault? You'd think there would be a check engine light if it was out of whack enough to idle that rough.
no idea. The shop was on the cheaper side for a diagnostic and since I thought it was something simple I chose them. A bunch of stuff on their report made no sense. They told me to change the air filter even though I had the day I brought it to them so not sure they even checked stuff they said they did.
Might want to check the harmonic balancer as well, the rubber bits can come out causing an imbalance that's felt when idling.
What prompted the mechanic at the shop to find the IACV to be at fault? You'd think there would be a check engine light if it was out of whack enough to idle that rough.
What prompted the mechanic at the shop to find the IACV to be at fault? You'd think there would be a check engine light if it was out of whack enough to idle that rough.
would that cause a grinding like noise? I thought it was the power steering pump but might be that
ended up just replacing it with an eBay one. Def will try that, think I’m going to seafoam it.
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