Hi everyone. I'm having problems with my EM1. It has the factory B16A2. It has a few modifications, like an intake and exhaust, but its otherwise stock more or less.

The problem I'm having right now, and I'll try to be as detailed as I can, is when the car is cold, there will be moments where the car is almost hitting a fuel cut. The car won't rev past 2,000rpm and if I turn the car off in that moment, the car won't start at all. I will have to try multiple times before the car finally kicks into life. There has also been 1 instance where I was driving on the motorway and the car shut off. Again, the car wasn't fully warmed up. When the car is at operating temperature, it doesn't cut out at all or even hit this 'fuel cut'.

For an engine to run, it needs air, fuel and spark right? Not too long ago, I replaced a lot of the distributor parts, so immediately I thought it must be fuel related. Only just yesterday, I installed a brand new OEM fuel pump and it hasn't fixed the problem. The fuel filter was also replaced 3,000 miles ago. I don't think injectors will cut the car out. Now that the fuel side of things look ok, I'm now thinking its the distributor again.

So here's a list of things I've changed that relates to ignition:
NGK spark plugs
NGK plug leads
New OEM distributor cap
New OEM distributor rotor
NGK ignition coil

The only thing I haven't replaced is the ignition control module/ignitor. Do you think that will cause the issues I'm having? Someone said I should replace my main relay too. I need to mention as well that today I was cruising at 100km/h. I went down to 3rd gear and tried to go into VTEC. The car hesitated/sputtered. It has done it in the past, but I fixed that by replacing the distributor cap. Of course the issue has appeared again.

For the intake side of things, I've only cleaned the MAP sensor and reinstalled it. I haven't touched the TPS or anything else. I'm not getting a check engine light either.

If anyone can shed some light, it will be greatly appreciated. I'm stressing out so much because I've been dealing with problems ever since I got the car in 2021 and I've spent so much money on parts.

 

Check TPS sensor, this can cause these symptoms. 0.5v closed to ~4.5v wide open throttle

 

Had a CRX cut out on the freeway once. Towed to a Honda/Acura specialist. They immediately declared it to be the ignitor. Replaced it and the car ran normal again. Car was NOT cold when this happened.

Also have a look at PGMFI Main Relay. If the solder joints crack from age the entire system will run intermittent (usually problems when hot). Sometimes won't start (never had it cut out though). Try re melting the solder joints.

 

When I was on the freeway, when my car cut out, I would say the temperature gauge was halfway towards full operating temperature. So it wasn't exactly cold. I have a replacement Hitachi igniter there, so I'll install that when I have time.

I'll have a look at the relay and the TPS (Suggested by theYBLEGAL). Thanks guys. Still open to more opinions/suggestions.

 

I haven't updated this, but I installed a brand new main relay. The Civic hasn't bogged down since.

Just today I installed a new igniter. Car idled fine when I reassembled everything. I didn't drive it though. Later, I had to move the car out of my driveway. Moved a few feet and the car shut off. I thought maybe I backed off the clutch too fast. Tried starting the car again and now it's completely dead. I can hear the relay click, the fuel pump prime, but nothing. The only thing I was messing with was the distributor, which I put back together exactly how it was.

As I mentioned already, the car started fine the first time and idled normally. Something is after happening... Do you think the new igniter is faulty? I could try putting the old one back in.

 

Issues gone. EM1 runs perfectly now.

• Main relay seems to be the cause of no start and low RPM bogging.
• Igniter wasn't necessary, but the car goes through the revs much smoother.
• TPS wasn't touched and it seems there's no need for replacing. I had a Skunk2 one on order.

 

Spoke too soon and I have to revive this thread once again

I was on the motorway, crawling in traffic, so I'm doing about 20km/h, hovering around 1,500 to 2,000rpm. The car suddenly cuts power, like a hard cut, and comes back. It's not like a rev limiter that I experienced before, when my distributor was causing issues. I purposely stayed at 3,000rpm and above, or put the clutch down and let the car coast when I'm between gears. Full throttle, the car is fine.

Maybe it's the TPS? I still have one on order and just waiting for it to arrive from America. Any ideas? One guy said it might be a failing MAP sensor. To clarify, I'm going to give you guys the specs. The EM1 is still using standard intake manifold, standard throttle body, OEM MAP sensor, and a CT Engineering intake with the DC2 intake elbow and filter. The TPS is either OEM or cheap aftermarket. I can't tell... unless I take it out. It's getting replaced regardless.

I'm not running a Hondata or Link. Just standard OBD2 ECU.

 

Find an android, download Torque from play store. Get something similar to
Have it handy at all times and try to see what signals are dropping out.

Aggressively shake wires/connectors in bay and try to aggravate the problem.

 

I don't have a port to plug into for that bluetooth device.

 

I would almost think your sensors are probably fine, only because if any of them were to start going out I would think the engine would still run OK but not 100% because it would switch back to a open loop situation?? With that your CEL would illuminate.. Shouldn't be cutting out like your experience. I'm curious if your electrical is cutting out from the battery but you would notice your lights cut off too then switch back on if there was a minor break up in its power connection. With your info I would almost lean into checking your ignition switch, try with the engine running and sitting at a idle, jiggle the key while also lightly twisting it??
Just some random thoughts I had for you..

 

I was on the motorway, which is as smooth of a road as you're gonna get here. Going very slow at 20km/h when the limit is 100km/h. There wouldn't be any aggressive vibrations that would aggravate the problem.

I've taken the car over speed bumps, so that kinda proves vibration isn't the cause. My check engine light never comes on when the car's having issues. It did once, but I accidentally left the solenoid unplugged, so the light works.

 

Think I found the culprit, after troubleshooting for so long. I also deleted the fuel cutoff switch just to be sure. I'm nearly sure its a sketchy ignition control module. My car has not been right since installing it, so I guess 25 year old parts just work better? I'll test drive the car tomorrow, before reinstalling the original module. If the car bogs down again, I'll rip out the sketchy module straight away and try to prove my theory.

 

After test driving with the kill switch taken out, it was the same. Car kept breaking up and even died on me twice. Took the distributor off and started dismantling it. IT WAS THE IGNITER. But not the reason I thought at first. One of the wires popped off the connector, from what I presume the vibrations of the road. Anyway, I got some pliers and pinched the female connector tighter, so it had a better grip on the igniter. So far so good.

 

Scratch the last post... My car died again, but I managed to nurse it home. Blew the distributor apart and all wires were connected as they should be. Swapped out the igniter since that has started this whole nightmare. I reinstalled the OEM Hitachi unit and the car runs perfect. I've emailed the shop I purchased the aftermarket igniter from and you bet that I'm demanding a refund.