Hello to all, first post here.

The car is a 2002 CR-V ES 2.0 manual European model.
The symptoms are crank no start, green key light flashing and only the drivers door locking and unlocking with key fob or key. Both chipped keys give the same result.
The garage has had it for 6 weeks with no results but are now saying that perhaps it is the MICU.
Does the MICU have anything to do with the immobilizer on these early models? The only wiring diagrams I can find show a white wire from Pin2 on the immobilizer control unit receiver which branches to E27 ECM and C3 MICU.
I understand that the ECM gets a signal that controls the fuel pump relay but not how or if the MICU interacts with this process.
Any ideas on what could be causing of these two issues to occur at the same time?

Thanks in advance
Alex

 

I believe this was the first year they includes the MICU in the immobilizer equation. And yes a bad MICU will break the immobilizer.

Good news you just need to find an MICU from the same trim level CR-V and swap it. Then reprogram the immobilizer. I believe there is a function for MICU replacement in the immobilizer programming.

 

Thank you so much for your response Ryan.

I have an update on this problem.

I managed to source a replacement MICU from a Scandinavian model with daytime running lights but without front fog lights (38200-S9A-S01), my unit was (38200-S9A-G01) with front fog lights but without daytime lights and sent it to the Garage.
It has solved the immobilizer problem so the the car runs and somehow the the fogs lights are still working. A key in the drivers side door locks and unlocks it and the front passenger door but not the rear doors or the boot (trunk). All other functions work as well.
When we got a call to inform us that the car was running we were over the moon but when we got to the "Garage" (this is Eastern Europe) we discovered that the car wouldn't idle properly.
At idle it surges up and down between 1500rpm and 2300rpm. The guys said it would probably go back to normal after driving it, I knew this wasn't likely but they obviously wanted to be paid and the car gone.
I don't speak the language my wife does but doesn't understand the technical language and they really didn't want to answer any questions about what had been touched during the process.
Anyway we managed to get the car home but the idling problem persists. I have a basic CAN OBD2 code reader and this showed no fault codes.
The car idled fine before but I had noticed that the revs would increase when the steering wheel was turned tightly at parking speeds.
Any further help would be much appreciated.

Thank you in advance

Alex

 

Not 100% sure on your EDM market CR-V but the US market had a rotary valve idle control that is prone to carbon fouling. It will cause an oscillating idle as you described.

The valve can be removed and cleaned.

 

Hi!
Search all over internet for a solution to the exact same problem with immobilizer and door locking on my Honda CRV 2002 which started a few weeks ago. There was no way I could get the flashing green key light to go away and get the engine to start so the last thing I tried was to diconnected the battery for about 12 hours...same problem then I left the battery disconnected for 36 hours....and the immobilizer and door locks to worked again?? The problem started when I was in a hurry and didnt let the immobilizer initialize (the flashing green key goes away) completely before I cranked the engine. As long as I let the immobilizer complete the initialization it all works fine (well...as long as I dont forget to let the immobilizer complete its initilization before trying to start the car...). So I guess I will need to replace the MICU on my Honda to...

I live in Sweden so my Honda is also a European model and I guess I then can look for a MICU with modelnum 38200-S9A-S01 as you specified in your post above?
Thanks.
Jörgen

 

Hi All,
Sorry for the delayed reply but have been busy.
Ryan, you were right about the idle problem it was carbon fouling of the rotary valve idle control.
Cleaned it and now it idles perfectly.
The key to doing this successfully is to remove the plastic electrical connector housing from the the valve (TS20 which is 5 pointed) to allow you to rotate the valve while you're cleaning it. There is a o-ring inside the plastic housing so be careful of this. The main rotary valve idle control housing is connected to the throttle body with Phillips-headed bolts and a rubber gasket that I reused and it is also connected to the coolant system via two hoses (brake hose clamps worked well here).
I found this video on Youtube that helped a lot and is similar to my CR-V's setup "T2EP3 Part 24 : Honda Civic Type R EP3 K20 Hunting Idle Fix - IACV Cleaning". The problem seems to be common on vehicles that are left without running for sometime, which in my case was 2 months.

Jörgen, glad it help. I had also exhausted every possible thread I could find on the Internet.

Once again thanks to Ryan.

Alex