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Was heading home from Walmart and white Silverado ran stop sign and turned right in front of me. Front driver and passenger frame damage and snatched threads and driver side engine mount clean off block and also folded in the driver side engine mount. The engine specs are B18b1 Block with an gsr Vtec head
Wiseco Pro Tru Pistons; Sport Compact Series part#K593M815
Eagle Rods
King race bearings
Skunk2 valves
BC racing valve springs/ keepers, steel retainers
Brian Crower 33m Intake valves
Brian Crower 28mm Exhaust valves
GSC Magnese bronze valve guide set
Cometic Head Gasket 81.5mm .045"
Skunk2 ultra street intake manifold with 74mm throttle body
Alpha injection 1000cc injectors
Walbro 450 fuel pump
What would be best way to go about this predicament money wise with the block and is it fixable? Also should I just purchase a shell and swap over everything in new EK shell or try to repair frame damage? Kinda leading to just getting a shell and swapping over everything.
I would replace the block. Fixing your current block is incredibly challenging and likely will not last long if you try.
Alrighty then, last question. Would you suggest I get a new Ek shell ? And swap everything from this chassis to the other shell instead of trying to save the vehicle / frame damage ?
I would replace the block. Fixing your current block is incredibly challenging and likely will not last long if you try.
Just curious, what would be your thoughts on a weld repair and thread retap to fix that mount? Not suggesting OP go that route necessarily, but wondering how that would hold up on aluminum.
Originally Posted by Ant_under_Boost
Alrighty then, last question. Would you suggest I get a new Ek shell ? And swap everything from this chassis to the other shell instead of trying to save the vehicle / frame damage ?
EK cars are a fair bit easier to find than EGs, not that both aren't becoming scarce. I would check the market around you and see if you can find a good looking, clean shell and swap all your parts over. It would take extensive work to fix your current frame damage, and if you went through insurance (which I'm hoping you did) it would affect the title status of your car, I would assume.
This car is totaled, I really hope you got some sort of compensation either through the other driver or insurance.
Just curious, what would be your thoughts on a weld repair and thread retap to fix that mount? Not suggesting OP go that route necessarily, but wondering how that would hold up on aluminum. You might get lucky having it welded up... but welding dirty cast aluminum is always challenging. Then, you are going to drill into it and repair ALL THREE holes... and assuming that you get the mounting surface flat and in the proper original plane (and the bracket bolts pull torque), it may work... at least for a while. This whole operation would have to be done while the engine is out... and if you are moving everything over to another EK chassis, that would be a good time.
EK cars are a fair bit easier to find than EGs, not that both aren't becoming scarce. I would check the market around you and see if you can find a good looking, clean shell and swap all your parts over. It would take extensive work to fix your current frame damage, and if you went through insurance (which I'm hoping you did) it would affect the title status of your car, I would assume.
This car is totaled, I really hope you got some sort of compensation either through the other driver or insurance.
Just curious, what would be your thoughts on a weld repair and thread retap to fix that mount? Not suggesting OP go that route necessarily, but wondering how that would hold up on aluminum.
EK cars are a fair bit easier to find than EGs, not that both aren't becoming scarce. I would check the market around you and see if you can find a good looking, clean shell and swap all your parts over. It would take extensive work to fix your current frame damage, and if you went through insurance (which I'm hoping you did) it would affect the title status of your car, I would assume.
This car is totaled, I really hope you got some sort of compensation either through the other driver or insurance.
The block can be fixed.
It’s better to just build up new material. There is already a flat surface with the other 2 bolt holes that you can true off of.
Fill the two bad holes, build up surface, drill out all 3, helicoil/timesert, move on.
ER4047, preheat the block to 400*F (this should burn off any impregnated oil and gunk) get some 75/25 HeAr, nice slow easy passes with minimal filler, clean in between each pass with a SS wire brush. Worst case scenario the block is shot already, so it’s worth a try if you have the means. Best case scenario you don’t need a new block.
It’s better to just build up new material. There is already a flat surface with the other 2 bolt holes that you can true off of.
Fill the two bad holes, build up surface, drill out all 3, helicoil/timesert, move on.
ER4047, preheat the block to 400*F (this should burn off any impregnated oil and gunk) get some 75/25 HeAr, nice slow easy passes with minimal filler, clean in between each pass with a SS wire brush. Worst case scenario the block is shot already, so it’s worth a try if you have the means. Best case scenario you don’t need a new block.
Do you have any suggestions on a place/ shop that can do / specialize in everything you just mentioned ? Who would you suggest I contact or search online to have this issue fixed ? Also how much you think a repair like this would cost just an estimate guess. Thank you for your time as well responding.
Last edited by Ant_under_Boost; Jul 27, 2023 at 08:40 PM.
You’re going to want to find somebody who has experience welding aluminum, and castings especially.
If somebody just gobs up beads on that area it’ll break off. They need to know how to prep it and weld it, peen it in between passes, let it cool.
A shop will charge out the ***, you’re looking at at least 3-4 hours of labor rate, let alone consumables. If they don’t have a bottle of helium lying around, they’ll charge you for it, and that alone will out-price what you probably want to pay.
$300 is what I’d charge to weld that.
Machining it, I wouldn’t know how to quote it, but someone will need to have a Mill big enough to set up the block. They’ll have to face cut the area, then drill the holes, then heli-coil/timesert all three holes, open up the mount if needed for new bolt size if necessary.
I’d start calling around welding shops and seeing if somebody can point you in the right direction. If they start saying they can do it, ask to see proof of their work, vet them out before giving your block to somebody. It’s easy to mess up.