EG HONDA CIVIC Loud CLUNK/Knocking Sound Please help
This been a problem for awhile now cant figure it out. So when i slowly come from a stop and start to move coming off the clutch it makes a CLUNK sound like its hitting sumthing maybe, sumtimes it would do it once or sumtimes its like rapid. u can feel it in the floor board DRIVER and PASS 0 Clue what it could be. i took it to leswwab and my suspension is fine other than 2 rips in the tie rod boots and a small leak from the driver CV axle. but he said those wouldnt cause that. any knowledge will help i got 0 clue on what it could be. please and thanks. and i have a video u can kinda hear it but ill put it in here so u get a idea. here the link to the vid doesnt let me add the file for sum reason https://streamable.com/jblej4
https://streamable.com/jblej4
https://streamable.com/jblej4
https://streamable.com/jblej4
https://streamable.com/jblej4
I would check motor mount first. Especially the rear one. Put e-brake on and momentarily slip the clutch to make the engine rock backwards & forward. If you hear the noise when you do this have someone hunt down the sound when you repeat it.
It's important you don't let the car move so nobody gets hurt or run over while searching. Wheel chocks are a good idea.
If not motor mounts, then check for un torqued suspension bolts or worn/torn suspension bushings. I had a knock from a slightly loose lower damper fork bolt (where it connects to lower arm.
Also check all the subframe bolts are torqued as well (there are a lot and they all have different torque values). Use a torque wrench.
It's important you don't let the car move so nobody gets hurt or run over while searching. Wheel chocks are a good idea.
If not motor mounts, then check for un torqued suspension bolts or worn/torn suspension bushings. I had a knock from a slightly loose lower damper fork bolt (where it connects to lower arm.
Also check all the subframe bolts are torqued as well (there are a lot and they all have different torque values). Use a torque wrench.
I would check motor mount first. Especially the rear one. Put e-brake on and momentarily slip the clutch to make the engine rock backwards & forward. If you hear the noise when you do this have someone hunt down the sound when you repeat it.
It's important you don't let the car move so nobody gets hurt or run over while searching. Wheel chocks are a good idea.
If not motor mounts, then check for un torqued suspension bolts or worn/torn suspension bushings. I had a knock from a slightly loose lower damper fork bolt (where it connects to lower arm.
Also check all the subframe bolts are torqued as well (there are a lot and they all have different torque values). Use a torque wrench.
It's important you don't let the car move so nobody gets hurt or run over while searching. Wheel chocks are a good idea.
If not motor mounts, then check for un torqued suspension bolts or worn/torn suspension bushings. I had a knock from a slightly loose lower damper fork bolt (where it connects to lower arm.
Also check all the subframe bolts are torqued as well (there are a lot and they all have different torque values). Use a torque wrench.
i can try to do the first option. i mean i tried to shake the engine back and forth by gripping the exhuast manifold and it didnt move at all but HOW do u slip the clutch exactly. can u do a step by step on how to do the first option. and did u watch the video i sent???
I would check motor mount first. Especially the rear one. Put e-brake on and momentarily slip the clutch to make the engine rock backwards & forward. If you hear the noise when you do this have someone hunt down the sound when you repeat it.
It's important you don't let the car move so nobody gets hurt or run over while searching. Wheel chocks are a good idea.
If not motor mounts, then check for un torqued suspension bolts or worn/torn suspension bushings. I had a knock from a slightly loose lower damper fork bolt (where it connects to lower arm.
Also check all the subframe bolts are torqued as well (there are a lot and they all have different torque values). Use a torque wrench.
It's important you don't let the car move so nobody gets hurt or run over while searching. Wheel chocks are a good idea.
If not motor mounts, then check for un torqued suspension bolts or worn/torn suspension bushings. I had a knock from a slightly loose lower damper fork bolt (where it connects to lower arm.
Also check all the subframe bolts are torqued as well (there are a lot and they all have different torque values). Use a torque wrench.
You dont think it can be a transmission related issue or u think its 100% one of those things?? ill look up where to find the SUB frame bolts and i just replaced the lower ball joints also. hopefully it aint related to the trans
It can be anything. I'm just telling you where I would start.
If it's new since balljoint work was done, then I would be suspicious of all the lower arm bolts since you usually remove the arm to do the job.
As for slipping the clutch, imagine starting to pull away from a stop, bit suddenly aborting and pressing the clutch back in because the car won't move.
This will load the engine mounts momentarily which will rock the engine back & forth with WAY more force than your hands
If it's new since balljoint work was done, then I would be suspicious of all the lower arm bolts since you usually remove the arm to do the job.
As for slipping the clutch, imagine starting to pull away from a stop, bit suddenly aborting and pressing the clutch back in because the car won't move.
This will load the engine mounts momentarily which will rock the engine back & forth with WAY more force than your hands
It can be anything. I'm just telling you where I would start.
If it's new since balljoint work was done, then I would be suspicious of all the lower arm bolts since you usually remove the arm to do the job.
As for slipping the clutch, imagine starting to pull away from a stop, bit suddenly aborting and pressing the clutch back in because the car won't move.
This will load the engine mounts momentarily which will rock the engine back & forth with WAY more force than your hands
If it's new since balljoint work was done, then I would be suspicious of all the lower arm bolts since you usually remove the arm to do the job.
As for slipping the clutch, imagine starting to pull away from a stop, bit suddenly aborting and pressing the clutch back in because the car won't move.
This will load the engine mounts momentarily which will rock the engine back & forth with WAY more force than your hands
WAIT so bascially pretend like im going to move put it in first then slowly come off the clutch then quickly press the clutch back in. ???
It can be anything. I'm just telling you where I would start.
If it's new since balljoint work was done, then I would be suspicious of all the lower arm bolts since you usually remove the arm to do the job.
As for slipping the clutch, imagine starting to pull away from a stop, bit suddenly aborting and pressing the clutch back in because the car won't move.
This will load the engine mounts momentarily which will rock the engine back & forth with WAY more force than your hands
If it's new since balljoint work was done, then I would be suspicious of all the lower arm bolts since you usually remove the arm to do the job.
As for slipping the clutch, imagine starting to pull away from a stop, bit suddenly aborting and pressing the clutch back in because the car won't move.
This will load the engine mounts momentarily which will rock the engine back & forth with WAY more force than your hands
yea it was doing this before I replaced my ball joints sum1 told me to replace those cuz he said it was that but it wasnt. the leswob guy said everything looked fine few tears in the boots and my tie rod is going bad but thats about it. ima do that test in a few and hopefully get under the car and check out other ****
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It's the same way people stage a car for launching at the drag strip.
Pull handbrake up, give the car a little gas while slowly letting off the clutch, you'll feel the car squat as the front tires try to overcome the resistance from the locked rear wheels. You're going to be checking if the engine is rocking while doing this.
Try it a couple times with no one in front or trying to look into the bay to get a feel for it. I agree with 94eg though, could still be something else in the suspension.
Pull handbrake up, give the car a little gas while slowly letting off the clutch, you'll feel the car squat as the front tires try to overcome the resistance from the locked rear wheels. You're going to be checking if the engine is rocking while doing this.
Try it a couple times with no one in front or trying to look into the bay to get a feel for it. I agree with 94eg though, could still be something else in the suspension.
It's the same way people stage a car for launching at the drag strip.
Pull handbrake up, give the car a little gas while slowly letting off the clutch, you'll feel the car squat as the front tires try to overcome the resistance from the locked rear wheels. You're going to be checking if the engine is rocking while doing this.
Try it a couple times with no one in front or trying to look into the bay to get a feel for it. I agree with 94eg though, could still be something else in the suspension.
Pull handbrake up, give the car a little gas while slowly letting off the clutch, you'll feel the car squat as the front tires try to overcome the resistance from the locked rear wheels. You're going to be checking if the engine is rocking while doing this.
Try it a couple times with no one in front or trying to look into the bay to get a feel for it. I agree with 94eg though, could still be something else in the suspension.
yea i dont think its motor mounts i took sum vids and this what i found for noise. and i looked under the car and i have 0 clue where the sub frame bolts are lmao should of looked up a vid or sumthin but i do think it might be the tie rod
yea forgot to do it when i was looking at the car but i dont think its the mounts tbh i think its the tie rod. and the axle is makin a noise also but IDK if thats normal
i did the Tie rod test to see if there bad by touchin the wheel in the 3 and 9 or wat ever it is(watched a chris fix video lol) and it did that loud noise still like the video above so i just think its that honestly
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