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Hey I have a b16 p28 in my 98 civic. When I swapped the engine I had to buy new headers they have 2 bungs right next to each other. I’m assuming you just slap them both in there but my wiring harness doesn’t have both oxygen sensor plugs just one due to it being a cheap tucked harness. But I do plan on turbocharging the car so I’d have to change the exhaust is there a way I could bypass it temporarily.
main reason I ask is cuz the car started acting weird after like 500 miles at first crank started getting longer. Then when vtec engaged it would like cut in and out of vtec then the car would randomly jump, cel would come off then back on and drive like usual till yesterday when the car stalled and wouldn’t turn on had someone push me with another car and just kept trying to jump start it after like 6 try’s it turned on dove it home now it has a very hard time starting some times won’t. and won’t rev past 4k rpm. It has cel on but I’ve been to lazy to read them since it’s obd1 Ik there are some for o2 since it’s not plugged. Is there a way I could make my obd1 connect to the scanner port?
ps the car would start in cold right up but when I start driving it if I would stop it would stall unless I have kept giving gas thought it was the Iacv since they had the newer style while the manifold required a old style. So it was only held in with one bolt. I changed it made it some up better but problem still occurred.
No you cannot connect your obd1 p28 to the port. You need to jump it and go count the mil flashes. OBD1 p28 is only looking for one o2, you don't need both. Check engine light often won't let you rev it out, this if completely normal.
No you cannot connect your obd1 p28 to the port. You need to jump it and go count the mil flashes. OBD1 p28 is only looking for one o2, you don't need both. Check engine light often won't let you rev it out, this if completely normal.
No you cannot connect your obd1 p28 to the port. You need to jump it and go count the mil flashes. OBD1 p28 is only looking for one o2, you don't need both. Check engine light often won't let you rev it out, this if completely normal.
any thought as to why it started doing after so long
I just checked the code I think it’s code 10 it’s just one long blink. Also I’m not sure but I heard to check the code I have the Jump the little blue connecter near ecu that you’d use for timing. but when I search it up it says idle air temp. Is that why my car is in limp mode?
it’s either code 1 or code 10. But all the videos I’ve see have said one long blink is 10 and short is 1. Seemed like a long blink to me
I put the o2 sensor in and the car started faster but when I go to rev the car It doesn’t go past for still
I reset my ecu and I’ve. Been meaning to upgrade my pump to a walbro 450 so I did that and the car starts now but still in limp mode won’t rev past 4. I don’t get it I up a o2 sensor in and reset ecu and still cel is there and limp mode. O2 is for a 00’ em1 from oreillys bosch would that matter? Idk what o2 sensor id get, block is b18c1 gsr year unknown , head is a 95 b16. ecu came out a 95 eg coupe which idk if it’s stock. I think it was also converted from auto to standard.
Just changed the iat sensor cel is gone also limp mode is gone. 😀. The crank is still really long for some reason. And idle is now alittle funky sounds like it wants to die then jumps to about 1.6 and down. Also does anyone know what would have caused the iat to burn like this.
Absolutely. At some point, the evap/purge plug was accidentally plugged into the IAT sensor... this is a 12v circuit plugged into a 5v sensor, and thus, why the end is burned off.
Bad ecu or oxygen sensor
