Hey guys, ive been trying find issue with my project, and tried search/google/youtube, cant seem to find an answer, so giving it a shot here.
I have crank (starter spins engine), but im not gettin power to the distributor, with ignition on ive checked with test light the distributor plug connector and im not getting any power on none of the connectors except one plug with only 2 wires. that one seem to have 12v but plug with 5 wires has no power. Ive also tried cranking with spark plug wire and test light to see if theres spark and there isnt. Heres list of things ive already checked/googled/researched. (yes i searched this forum too)

94 Civic EX - *SWAP* D15B non vtec engine.
Main Relay working
Starter working
Clutch Pedal Switch working
Engine and Under dash fuses checked/working
Ground connections - connected/working (engine harness ground ripped but connected them with piggyback connector until find right connector) wires have contact with thermostat housing.
Battery Fully charged, connected to trickle charger, shows good health on battery - working
Fuel Pump working - i can hear it prime and after few cranks i can smell lil bit of gas.
Fuel Injectors cleaned/new seals/new pintle caps/new filters.
Fuel filter new

Possible things that i think might causing this:
EX engine harness - Non EX engine - there few connectors on engine harness not connected like Vtec solenoid/Powersteering/AC. I was told by a friend that shouldnt be an issue, i will have check engine light but car should still fire up.
Kill switch - this is a EX shell that i picked up without engine, my friend gave me the engine/tranny, so ive never seen it run, but it came with Viper alarm installed. Under steering wheel there is a On/OFF switch, but with only 1 wire connected to it, and it leads to harness for viper alarm, the other connection on the switch didnt have any wires connected to it, which is weird i thought for switch to work you had to have 2 wires. So i dont know if Viper alarm has a kill switch, which i tried looking up how to disable it but couldnt find one for my model which seem to be older version of 3105v. or it has another kill switch i just cant find it.
Reason i dont think its a kill switch because i checked both sides of engine harness, the one on driver side shock tower plug and passanger side shock tower plugs and they both have voltage on wires (checked with test light with voltage reader), i dont know why theres no power going to distributor plug.
Hope someone had similar issues or knows more about my issue that can help.
I tried to provide as much info as possible, but if im missing something out let me know.
Im still troubleshooting it everyday if i come up with something ill post it.

Thanks,
Sam

 

Distributor Circuit Diagram

 

Ill check ignition blk/yel wire tomorow. Also where it says PGM-FI ECU is it talking about main relay or cars ECU (computer)?
I thnk there is a crimp on the Red/GRN wire from PGMFI that goes to viper alarm, but i dont know if thats the exact wire, theres also GRN/WHT wire next to it that has a crimp too.
Ill try to take pictures tomorow under dash.

 

The ones labeled PGMFI ECU is coming from the ECU. I believe they are pins A21 and A22 that feed to the ignitor unit. I provided the diagram so you can trace back the wires to figure out why your distributor isn't getting power, or if your ignitor or coil is bad inside the distributor.

 

thank you diagram does help. I don’t think igniter or coil is bad inside because I’m not getting power at the distributor harness connection. So it has to be between ignition switch going to distributor.

Distributor connection

that small connector with 2 wires has 12v going into distributor but big connector with 5 wires has no power on any of the wires.

I haven’t had chance to work on the car I’m ganna try today after work but I appreciate diagram and any tips/help. Thank you

 

Lets take a step back and solve this one at a time. From what I understand, you aren't getting any spark, tested from the spark plug wires, but you are getting battery voltage on the blk/yel wire.

Here are the steps from the book:
Igniter test:
1. Remove distributor cap, rotor, and inner cover.
2. Disconnect BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN, and BLU wires from the igniter unit.


3. Turn ignition switch ON. Voltage between BLK/YEL wire and body ground should be battery voltage.
4. Turn ignition switch ON. Voltage between WHT/BLU wire and body ground should be battery voltage. If no battery voltage, check ignition coil and the wire between ignition coil and igniter unit.
5. Check YEL/GRN wire between ECU and igniter unit.
6. Check BLU wire between tachometer and igniter unit.
7. If all tests are normal, replace igniter unit.

Ignition coil test
1. With ignition switch OFF, remove distributor cap.
2. Remove 2 screws to disconnect BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from the terminals A (+) and B (-) respectively.


3. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. Replace coil if resistance not within specifications.


Also, one outlier to check for is making sure the rotor is also spinning. It is 2022, the gear that rests on the notches of your camshaft may have broken off inside your head.

 

There should only be 12v+ on the black/yellow wire found in the 2-wire plug... NONE of the seven wires in the 8-pin plug will have 12v+ constant power on them at all.

 

Aaaah that makes sense now, i was watching youtube video of someone who said there was supposed to be one wire on 8-pin plug usually on the corner that was suppose to have power. Got it now! I will take cap off and start testing inside.

Thanks again @countrynoob for diagrams. ill be testing inside the cap tomorrow. Will post update after.

 

There is actually some truth to the video you watched. The OBD-2B Type Distributor plug is a single eight pin connector and all eight wire locations are used, unlike the OBD-1 type which has TWO plugs (one two pin and one eight pin, of which, only seven wire locations are used leaving one location blank)... including one corner below the ICM wire (yellow/green) which is occupied by a black/yellow 12v+ wire.

 

Update:
So it was bad distributor (ignition coil), ordered new one from amazon and it gave spark to plugs.
But the car still wont start. It cranks and sounds like it wants to sometimes start but it doesnt.
I did recheck Mechanical (belt) timing and everything lines up for d15b engine. I dont have test light to check distributor timing, but ive tried 3 positions (towards front, middle, and back) for the distributor and still no start.
The only thing at this point im thinking left is Fuel pressure regulator, since fuel filter is new. Also someone mentioned on another post to suck out old gas and try to refill it with new gas since car been sitting for couple of years. (i did add 5 gallons of fresh 91 gas, but didnt drain old fuel)
So im hoping thatll fix the issue. if theres anything else you guys suggest would appreciate it.

Oh also i did try Starting fluid in throttle body, and it spit fire out of it, dripped on the ground and good thing car didnt car full on fire just dripped on the floor and i put it out with bottled water.