Well while I'm building the built Vtec motor I'm going to throw the turbo on the stock motor. It's a B18B1 that has been babied it's whole half life from 65,000 miles when I got it to now 113,000 miles. I'm going to regularly boost it to 300whp but I was thinking about high boosting it to 360whp for whenever situations.

Turbo is a GT3076r and I will be keeping the timing down to help save the motor. I would think it should be perfectly fine for here and there runs...Opinions?

Hell let's call it 370-380whp! Had a few to throw back tonight so who cares right?

 

I wouldn’t risk anything over 300whp. It’s not worth throwing a connecting rod through the block and ruining it. Although, if you want to just push the limits, it might handle 360-380whp if you’re lucky. You’re better off keeping it under 300whp, then once your VTEC engine is built, take out the B18B, sell it, and put that money towards your VTEC build.
A good condition B series engine is becoming more rare (other than the B20 which are less desirable), so I wouldn’t push it past 300whp if you have another better build in progress.
Stock head studs might be an issue also at 360whp. But then again by the time you put money into upgrading to ARP headstuds, that $ could go towards your other build.
Near 300WHP is plenty on the street and decent on the track anyways for the mean time.
I kind of like the advice I got the other day about “anything that slows down getting your build on the road can wait until after your build is driving”.

 

I'm under the impression that with low timing the ringlands are what fail, not the connecting rods.

 

I tracked a completely stock ls bottom end with a 18g with 320whp for a long time. Just keep the rpms down. I think i never went above 7500rpm. Keep the limiter soft.

 

I'd keep it at or below the stock red line due to fear of the rod bolts anyways. What does keeping the limiter soft do for the motor? Never heard this...

 

Most ems have different levels of limiters.

A harsh limiter would make the pops and bangs most are familiar with. A softer limiter wouldnt have this and will cut fuel and ign slower and bring it back in slower. Compare a soft limiter to a stock car.

 

Yeah 320whp is more reasonable, but I think 360-380whp is unreasonable on a stock B18B.
An ignition cut is better than a fuel cut. If you are at high RPMs and you cut fuel but still have spark, then it can be too hot. If you have an ignition cut off, then you have only fuel in the cylinder, it shouldn’t be that hot, and it should just push the air/fuel out of the exhaust.

 

Hopefully Hondata does ignition cut and not fuel cut for their rev limiters.

Why would 360-380whp be unreasonable? The turbo will be a GT30R so it will not be boosting to the moon so that should help, low RPMs redline, that should help, and low ignition timing, that should help. Not to mention I wouldn't be pushing this amount daily, maybe a here or there thing. Plus I've heard just the ringlands fail so big deal. My old school turbo 5.0 blew some rings. Just smoked pretty bad but still drove.

 

You were the luckiest man alive.


Because it IS unreasonable. The stock rod bolt torque spec is 29 ft/lbs. This is not exactly stellar for making big power. Now, if you try and keep the ignition timing low and conservative and the A/F really safe... the only way you can reach the HP you want is to use a TON of boost. This is another problem. So, you ask WHY this would be unreasonable ??? The answer is the parts CANNOT take this level of abuse.

Just because you don't like the answers to the questions that you have posed doesn't make them untrue. Your engine may last one pull at this power level... it may last ten... or more. It simply depends on how LUCKY you are. The reality is that your engine WILL fail at 360-380 wheel HP... it is a question of when.

 

Oh come on, don't start with the "just because you don't like the answer"... That isn't what it is and plus there is no answer here, there are opinions and nothing more. Show me some type of proof that rod bolts break at 320-380whp and I will shut up. I've searched and searched and have found nothing of anyone saying their conservative reved stock LS motor broke due to power. I just haven't found it...Is it true? I don't know. Is proof out there? Maybe, I haven't found it being suggested even. I did find the below 2 posts though...

And if you think 29ft/lb stock rod bolt torque is low do you think 10ft/lb more would make all the difference?

 

You could write a book of the past 12 years you've been asking similar questions about boosting a B series lol.

Nothings changed other than there are even fewer parts to go around. 350 is probably max I would do.

I always heard the head studs were weak link, rod bolts next. Wouldnt know because I never blew one up.

 

Just had the tune right. This motor even had mixed and matched rod and main bearings from old motors. It did have arp headstuds.

Indrove that motor hard and it finally spun a bearing only because i didn’t check the oil level and took it to a mini track day.

 

That is true, however I made myself a personal goal to have the car boosted and driving by my birthday in August.

I plan to push it to 360whp. We will see if it fails.... If it does I have another motor and another car so no big deal.

Good to see you btw!

 

I didn’t know you’ve been working on a build so long until lightningTeg pointed it out. You might as well start one build thread instead of lots of individual threads, so it’s easier to follow.
That would be good to have it turbocharged by August. If you’re not building the B18B or building a transmission, it should be easy to have turbocharged by August.
If you’re willing to push the B18B to the limit, then sure, go ahead to see if it breaks or not at 360whp. Most people aren’t in the financial position to push an engine to where it might break, which is why most people can’t pin point an actual “limit” for a stock B18B. It would be good for Honda-tech if you are willing to sacrifice a whole block to find out the limit for yourself. You might just get head lift on stock head bolts and not throw a rod, or damage a piston first.

 

I plan to start a thread soon as I start wrenching and have some content to put in the thread. This car was a convenient gas saver that ended up paying for itself. I have parts laying around everywhere, just never got motivated to put them on due to I'm really not a "Honda guy". The car's fun factor is through the roof though and I do enjoy it.

 

I understand. It’s all good- I do consider myself a “Honda Guy” because I’ve modded them off and on for two decades and haven’t modified any other cars.
With the B18B, you might find 300 wheel horsepower enough in a lightweight Honda. I had a ‘94 Civic hatchback with 300whp and it was fast in my opinion- not good from a stand still though, but plenty of acceleration, especially in 3rd gear.
If you do turbo the B18B and go up to 360whp, I’d be interested to see the posts/pics/videos from something like that!